Looks good, it appears they have made the shroud smooth...very smooth. I guess there's no denying that its doable.
Look, I don't want to kill this great thread, but put simply, a vinyl coating stuck on with a heat gun is nothing like what that photo is showing. QUOTE (From the website you posted): Depending on the coating, part life increase from two to ten times what the normal can be seen. The dry film lubricant may be burnished until they are no longer visible, however the active materials are bonded in to the "pores" of the part and continue to provide protection. And... Attached is a pic of the engine bay of my 1990 Nissan 300ZX. It has won two trophies (best engine bay and voters choice) at ZedFest 2008. Not only does the coating look almost identical to it's previously polished alluminium surface but lowered the engine bay temps considerably . Not able to be seen are also the exhaust manifolds that were coated with the hi temp black coating. The coating works so well on these especially that the OEM heat shields have been discarded. The interesting bit is in bold. Basically they have added a coating to all the hot bits to keep the heat in. If they didn't do that, it would just be too hot in there.
Well that solves it, the product those guys sell looks pretty good too but they don't have any information on pricing that i can see on the site. Definitely worth an investigate and maybe PMing the forum member(whoever it is) with a few questions if your that keen. matt.
That engine bay is Karl's (90TTZ) he is a moderator here.. his car is now blue.. And it isnt just wrapped in contact.. it's a propper modicoat product, and was not easy to achieve for what I heard (trying to get the fibre in the right direction ) May I suggest you contact 90TTZ for more infomation.. The matt black is looking great tho mate :zlove:
I see I see... cheers dude. Don't think I'll go for that; IMO blowing big money on making your engine bay look cool is a complete waste of time unless you've got a show car, I was only interested if I could wrap it cheaply. /thread underailed
Infill Panel Been working on the Infill Panel last few days. I don't have a pic of it when i got it but it was just a rough piece of fiberglass with the gel coat. This is more of a step by step post as some people have been curious. here it is. Sprayed it with filler many times and sanded it down until i was happy.(majority of time spent) Preparing to wrap and for Anti, those are the tools i use. I then lay the vinyl on top and peeled it back. Then i cut off the backing and stretched it out to the end. Apply heat and got rid of all the bubbles. Once its all done flip i flipped it over and started pulling the edges down. all wrapped and stuck down. Trimmed it up. Final product. Excuse the blurry pic, you get the idea. Thats all for today, ill try get it stuck onto the car tomorrow pending a viable means of adhesion. Im thinking some kid of liquid nails and black silicon to stop water getting in maybe. Any ideas would be great. cheers, matt
Yay I get a mention This post from zToy's fiberglass spoiler thread may be of use to you regarding what to stick it on with; It's mentioned previously (or afterwards, whatever) that it's waterproof. okay you win, that looks sick
The more stealth the better! Im just plastering it in matte, if i feel like i need to make it gloss later on it will have only cost me ~5 bucks. cheers man, sikaflex it is! Ill have to investigate that tomorrow. matt.
Yeah go Sikaflex, thats what the tail lights (and Renee's side skirts) are stuck on with (the lights have bolts as well, but the sika would hold such a light thing on no worries anyway ). If you run a bead around the outside to seal it in and some dobs where the bolt holes for the original infill was, it should squish through giving it a really good hold once it cures. Make sure you get the right stuff as there a couple different types from what I remember. Also be aware that once it's cured, if you ever want to get the infill back off you'll likely destroy it in the process . Cheers, Craig
Sikaflex 227 is the stuff you want. And the bonus part is that once it sets it has a nice Matt Black finish. It couldn't be more perfect.
The huge rectangle hole in the middle, just above that there isnt much space to contact and im worried about water getting in. I'm not too sure when to put it either, the rubber trim that is on bottom side of the hatch interferes with the positioning. I pulled those 2 strips of rubber off to clean them and they go back on pretty loosely, maybe glue those back on too? cheers for the info Ill try bunnings today. Matte black i like cheers for the help, matt
That would be the hole the 3rd brake light bolts through...I think as long as you get a good bead on the infill in that area it will seal fine...just be careful with the sika squishing out from the edges of the infil as it is incredibly sticky stuff, it likes to string like mozzarella cheese and can make a huge mess...it also doesn't like to clean off easy if you get it anywhere you don't want it....so be VERY careful or youll end up messing your nice matte hatch surface or tail lights In regards to the rubber strips, your in pioneering area so all the best ...some pics of what you've got to work with could help us give you the advice your after. Cheers, Craig
Just bought a tube of the sikaflex-227 which is black. Ill have to investigate it tonight. My oldie also suggested heading down to a rubber store and filling up that little gap in the middle where i presume your hand goes to lift the boot. Any idea on how much time you have to play with to position before it starts to dry? cheers, matt.
I cant remember off the top of my head but it takes at least 24 hours to fully cure, depending on the environment but as you are in QLD it should be around that time. I wouldn't move a piece after 20min or so. The tube should give you most of the info.
I've been really busy this weekend havn't had time to do anything and now i have a cold and a headache and still need to get uni work done. Im gonna have a look at it later today or tonight though, definitely stick the rubber trim down at least. cheers, matt
Targa Hook Took me 10 mins to do the targa hook just then. It was already a glossy black and the end bits had corroded so i just sanded it back and wrapped it. Not a huge difference but none the less gloss black to matte black. Just a bit dirty and dusty, ends had been pulled off. From peeling it off to getting it like this took me about 20 seconds, the small long bits are very easy as theres not much distance at any one point from an edge so removing bubbles is very simple. On that topic im not a fan at all of leaving a bubble and popping it with a pin later on. i would rather pull up a huge sections get it then heat and re lay it all to get one out. Its worth the time and doesnt disrupt the integrity of the vinyl in my mind. edges all tucked in neatly. (loving iphone pics sometimes) Another nice shot with targas on. *edit* old man in background working on mums excel, he told me he wanted a mention Cheers for the read guys, until next time... matt.
