Looking to make 250-300rwkw, what mods should i need?

Why should benny have to show you a time slip. He isn?t going around talking up his zed. And why should he have to show you anything when you aren?t willing to do the same??.im not going to give you crap for spending 10k to get whatever power you got, its not my place, but I do have to wonder and frown when someone claims something when clearly its far from the truth. If there is one thing I hate its when people talk the talk when its cleary not true. You might as well get an excel and put a gtr badge on it

 

thumbs up for the excel.....

with a VG30DETT engine conversion maybe?

oh and some flame decals... :vomit: :vomit:

 

I'm lost. You said you got 350 rwkw,,, and now its maybe 250rwkw with race fuel ... whats going on what is it 350 250 maybe 150 ,,,lol

 

I think Icer should just stop posting.. my bullshit meter goes off the scale whenever I come across one of his posts...

 

must be a pretty big meter

 

With hopes, dreams and combined with a little bit of fairy dust you just might yknow!

 

Yes mate

I am, but its not as easy as i thought it would be! For starters I'm now changing the fuel feed line from the pump to 1/2, which means an 8an bulk head needs to be cut into the tank at the pump. I looked at doing the new feed line in alloy or steel, but it was easier to go braded.
This is the new line,http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AER%2DFCC0820&N=700+400274+300165+4294906615+115&autoview=sku
and this is a pic off the rail setup I'm doing, close to it anyway.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/131/10667/234994.jpg
Also I'm replacing the FPR with this;
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D13109&N=700+0&autoview=sku
I'll back the fpr right off after its up to pressure, to see what back pressure is there, I may have to change the return line also, I hope not!
I'm doing all this while the engine is out, still waiting on sts dumps! come on paul

It may be a little over the top for around 300+ kws, but i dont like taking chances. Thanks for asking Niall, you should make 250ks no problem at all. :zlove:

 

No

rob, offcourse not.

 

this has gone a bit quiet ,,,, whats going on ??????????????????????????
brb i must :vomit: :bash:

 

Icer got

hammered, thats what!

 

LOL, my goodness some of the ?advice? people post is soooo funny, I could barely keep up with it all to try and de-myth half of it.

First thing that blew me out of the water was some one mentioning that the new Toyota Aurion V6 puts out 200kw so a v6 zed must put out at least 170kw or so? what the heck does a 2007 orange have to do with a 1991 apple. Engines aren?t engines, with valve timing and all the new tech each year, there is no logic to those sort of statements. Even the Z31 and Z32 models were totally different even though the Z31 and Z32 both feature a 3.0 litre, v6 naturally-aspirated or turbocharged engine from the same VG series and have the same displacement, the output of the Z32 is greater than the Z31. The naturally-aspirated Z32 has 222 hp (166 kW) and 198 lb?ft (268 N?m) of torque versus the Z31 with 160-165 hp and 174 lb?ft (236 N?m) of torque. Similarly, the twin-turbo Z32s have 300 hp (220 kW) and 283 lb?ft (384 N?m) torque versus the single turbo Z31, which has 200-205 hp and 227 lb?ft (308 N?m) of torque. The main difference in the newer motor is the addition of dual overhead camshafts, and for the turbocharged version seeing variable valve timing, (as well as dual intercoolers).

Which leads nicely into the second, you don?t technically need bigger intercoolers to pump out more power, you can ramp your PSI and have as much power as the engine will hold as it will suck in the same amount of air, coolers or not, BUT if your not that cheap with your car and don?t just want power for the first 25 to 35 min till your engine performance drops off as your enigne gets hotter and hotter and the air coming in does so also, so some sort of upgrade or at least a clean of originals would be a great idea. Intercoolers are used to keep intake air temp down? see wiki or zx guru?s on this site for exact air temp to power ratio calcs, but for simple people like me, all I need to know is colder air means better combustion, means better running engine and can run at peak for longer. So indirectly I guess you might argue that intercoolers help deliever more power but it is not a definate ratio ?the bigger your cooler the bigger your power output? like some tend to argue. [Note some people also fail to consider the bigger the cooler the bigger the air lag inside, bigger lag sees people amp up PSI to pump the air in harder and faster, the more PSI the hotter the air gets as its all got to do with air pressure (again see guru?s) so that whole game is a balancing act where you want to find a level that basically causes no major bottle necks in any one area]. Generally you go with what the top zx guys are doing on their zed?s as they?ve been through all the different setups.

Third, in my opinion the person who said 17 psi should get you to 250kw was been a little excessive. I am running 8 on low and 12psi on high and on high boost with out a proper power run as we were only tunning, my car made 242.1rwkw (207.3 on 8psi), enough power to melt your tyres and have loads of fun. My engine is in average condition from previous owners and I have cleaned and replaced here and there to try and increase longevity, but no major mods, all stock parts in engine. 14 psi seems to be a very common thread on most cars I know, 17 on those with pretty nice engines. 20 to 25 on those shinny out of the box engines =)

Main mods I?ve done to get to 242 has been the comp, although it came chipped from japan, and I am replacing it first chance I get (ie cash) but comp is needed so that your car knows what you want out of it.
A single piece tailshaft
Changed air box and bigger cooler as mentioned for better breathing engine in general.
And that?s it.
So really it is up to age and condition of engine. Mine needed an injector clean real bad and turned out one injector was cracked and leaking fuel. But yeah I did not expect 242 as it was running 140rwkw from day one.
From all the talk people had posted about all these super mods they?ve probably never done to their own cars, I was barely expecting 200kw once tuned and psi?d to the hilt from my poor old girl? but she surprised a few people, myself included.

Have quite a few other mods here and there, but none that really add to performance gains, more maintenance and wearing issues for the car. Example the rubber intake pipes were falling apart so for the price of replacements, I got hard pipes. Boost leaks don?t help, so again its all about looking after her and doing those maintenance things to get her back to as close to neat and tidy as possible.

AND BTW i have an Auto, and stock cams and stock everything engine wise, turbos stock, everything stock =)- not even blow off values, certainly none i have put on there and others have tried to locate them for me and say i have stock recircs just mounted upside down (go the japs =), and getting 242rwkw on a tuning run (see dyno section for syno sheet) and been kicking on for over a year now. SO fingers crossed i don't need to much more any time soon.

 

icer you really should learn how to read and comprehend before you post. As I said, I did install all that ( in my backyard) and for $3300 I would give up my day job in a flash. I could do all of that in 4 days and to gross $3300 would be a lot more than the majority of the people on this forum could earn in the same time. That's $825 per day

You miss the point the reason you are being flamed is you have posted information about your experiences you have had trying to make big power that is simply restricted to your case alone, yet you make out it is the rule insulting people along the way. It is because of posts like yours that give our cars a bad name. As has been posted, many people have made big power on a lot less coin. You put up the challenge who has made over 260RWKW on less than $10K which I qualified for easily yet you are still ignorant of the obvious. You remind me of a business owner in NSW who simply refuses to accept anyones opinion because he thinks he knows better than anyone else.

 

why does anyone really care what this icer character talks about?

if he helps out with usefull posts, then let him, if he wants to talk shit, then let him do that too.

all zed owners know its not expensive to get 90% of the potential horsepower out of your zed, however, be prepared to spend a lot more to finally get that final 10% of potential horsepower out of your engine.

if some people like to pay someone to remove and install their engine while their rebuilding, that there is over $2k. labour is very expensive and some people think its easier to pay someone to do it instead of doing a bit of research, buying the right tools and giving it a go themselves.

maybe if icer decided to buy another zed and rebuild it, if he pulled the engine, stripped it, put it back together and re-installed the engine all by himself, he would realise that you can get over 300rwkw for under $10k.

 

yeah, what rom said.

Would of been shitload cheaper for me if i did it all in one engine out ;/

 

Is it a

'Snap on' or 'sidchrome' bullshit meter?

 

Sorry to drag up old posts, but this was just linked to a more recent thread.
And this is just wrong. It has nothing to do with how much power the engine will hold but with heat. And it's not sucking in the same amount of air coolers or not. Stock turbo's will not be able to push any more air past 15psi on the VG30DETT unless there is a significant drop in temps/pressure on the intake side, which is gained from intercooling. Yes I'm sure there are people out there running 18/20psi on stock IC's and turbo's, but I can guarantee there not making any more power than at 15psi.

The majority of the rise in intake temps dosn't come progressively as you drive your car. Yes there is some transfer of heat from the exhaust manifold, but this accounts for little. The majority of heat in the charge temperature comes from the air itself being compressed against the wall of the housing. When talking about T25 turbo's and 18psi+ mark then your talking upwards of 120C coming out of the turbo. And that's on a squirt, if your running it on boost constantly and factor heat soak and the diminished capabilities of the stock IC's then your talking high numbers at the intake.

To say that you don't technically need bigger IC's to make more power is just wrong. You reach a point with turbo's where the volume of air vs boost levels out. ie, the pressure (boost) on the intake side of the turbo is only increasing due to the rapidly increasing temperature of the air. Volume of air is no longer increasing and this is called the choke line on a compressor map. This can be offset by using better intercooling through air to air IC's or injection. You lower the temps on the intake side, decrease the pressure and allow the turbo to push more air.

Heat soak always plays a fact and just makes the need for good cooling more pronounced.

So moral of the story, intercooling is one of the most beneficial mods in the chase for power...and sustained power.