Looking to make 250-300rwkw, what mods should i need?

Again, as everyone else has said, 140rwkw is piss weak for a TT. Should be around 170rwkw. There are non-turbos on this site making 140rwkw and upwards. If a TT is only making 140rwkw, something is seriously wrong.

I currently have 251rwkw. How did I get it and how much did it cost? Well first of all I made sure I had a fit and healthy engine, 100,000km service, compression test, upgraded radiator, etc.....

Then;

FMIC $400

New fuel pump $180

BOV's ~ $500

EBC (Greddy Profec B spec2 from Greenline) $370

Stock ECU socket, chip and tune $700

Saber Guages to keep an eye on everything (boost & Water temp) $300

Total $2450.

But keep in mind that while the fuel pump, BOV's and Guages are a very good idea, they arent 100% neccessary, unless of course your stock items are failing. So really could have done it for $1470. But just remeber, not a good idea to skimp on supporting mods in this area.

Also its a good idea to upgrade your brakes and suspension to suit your upgraded power level.

But all this is useless on a sick engine making only 140rwkw. Get everything in good running order first, then look at upgrades.

Best of luck.

 

wholy shizen, you made 251 rwkw with no exhaust or intake modifications! thats impressive and kinda scary man. not even any drive ones (udp, lightfly, lightshaft etc.)

p.s. stock fuel pump was no where near maxed unless yours was stuffed a a/m one wouldnt result in a power gain.

yeah like i said, i only listed power... if someone is ONLY going to do this, i hope they have alot of luck.. without maintenance, brakes, suspension, guages etc. itd be a bitch. gota look after your car, then it will look after you, cant expect something to pump out impressive power and not look after it properly.

 

Whoops, forgot about that

Yeah add $100 for apexi pod filter, $??? for GFB underdrive pulley (mated with waterpump overdrive pulley)

Had turbo-back exhaust on it when I bought it, so that didnt need touching.

I replaced the fuel pump for the same reason that you change the water pump @ 100,000km service. It probably wont fail, but its a good idea to do it anyway, cheap insurance considering that the car is 18 years old.

 

you do know that the BOVs do shit all, well especially at the power figures most plp run in at.......same goes for the dual intake....not much point till u really decide to go BIG POWER!!!

 

There is debate that the stock recirc valves may leak boost at anything above stock levels. Also, due to age, they may be leaking regardless. If they hold fine, then yeah of course bov's arent needed. But if they cant hold the boost level you are wanting to pump through them then you need to replace them with something that will.

 

1 Bar...

14.5psi + supporting mods will get you 250rwkw. (POD filter, 2.5" catback, boost controller.)

I'm guessing for 300rwkw you'll need to run 20+psi and thus will require a turbo upgrade + supporting mods + large wallet...

But basically a healthly stage 3/4 Zed should have around 250rwkw @ 1 Bar.

A healthly stock TT should have around 170 to 180rwkw, not 140.

Cheers
Rob.

 

Advice/Installation/Tuning - Greg & Seb of SpecialtyZ
Stock/Original Turbos
Stock/Original Engine
Nismo 555cc Injectors
JWT Dual Intake
Stillen Oil Cooler
Stillen Lower Radiator Hose
Greddy Intercoolers
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
JWT ECU
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi AFC
RPS Max 6 Puck Clutch with lightened flywheel
Nismo Roller Bearing replacing the Pilot Bushing
Stillen Short-Throw Shifter
ACPT Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
Leader 4.10 Differential Gears
Nismo Carrier Bushings
Specialty Z/Fast Intentions Downpipes
Specialty Z/Fast Intentions Testpipe
Specialty Z/Fast Intentions X-Pipe
Specialty Z/Fast Intentions CF Mufflers

450whp @ 24psi on 104 octane.
Stock turbos...
335kW..

:zlove:

 

bumping up an old thread with a slightly different question if i may.

Im planning on keeping my vg30de n/a for a while before i throw a turbo on. The engine is a jdm vg30de, out of a nissan cima. according to wiki, this engine put out roughly 140rwkw stock, and the last time the engine was dyno'd it made 110rwkw with a hugley restricted exsaust and running in poor condition.

Now fixed up, with a better exsaust and air intake, im hoping to get it back up to around 130-140. But after that, i wouldnt mind taking a shot at somwhere a fair bit higher, up around 180-190.
so i figure next up on the exsaust and air intake, some headwork and some cams aswell. but would that take me up that high? or is 190 just out of the question for an n/a vg30de?

im already expecting lots of replies advising that i just hurry up and turbo it, and maybe sometime next year, i will. but first up id like to see how far it can go naturally aspirated.

cheers,

Pat

 

There was a thread a while ago (started by Wizard I think) about a very heavily modified dirt track NA Zed at UAS in Sydney which I think was making nearly that much power. It is probably worth looking up that thread.

It had a very very nice shaped curve on the dyno graph too. Not nearly as much power as the TTs but nice power delivery.

 

Do everything you can, should lead to 140-160rwkw. 190rwkw would need major overhaul and custom intake and engine work. TT conversion is cheaper.

 

No 190rwkw is not out of the question for a NA VG. Not worth the money at all, but acheivable. It was my initial plan but I ended up with $5k worth of parts on my floor and still needed to buy rod bolts, cams, nitrous and new bearings so I sold the lot and have bought a V8 instead to wack into the old girl.

To be honest just hurry up the turbo's, not worth pursuing NA unless you want the "honour" of having a worked NA VG.

I got 135rwkw with the following:
Apexi pod
Apexi cat back
"high flow" cats
UDP
Pex water pump overdrive pulley
1 piece d'shaft
JUN adjustable exhaust cam gears (-3deg)

If you are really interested do a search there is plenty of info put up by me and others. Unless you have deep pockets, don't even consider it, save it for a turbo motor.

In case I wasn't clear, buy a turbo motor.

 

.9mm Welding tips (13.5 psi) $4
Cat-Back exhaust in mild steel (cannons not included, already had them) $260
'Spectre' pod filter $30

216rwkw on an auto tt

 

i think you guys are not taking into consideration that the power figures you are giving out for example 1bar will give you 250rwkw is pretty much only for a manual. u need to factor in that the manual because of drivetrain has a better method of getting the power to the wheels.

im running somewhat 240rwkw with 16-17psi, full exhaust from turbos, bov's, dual pods, remapp...

but thats ok with my trusty shift kit ill take any of you 250kw manual zeds...time and date im there

 

Of course it's for a Manual...

Don't tell me they make Zeds with Automatic Transmission...?



Rob.

 

...

:stupid: :bash: :whatever: :banned:

 

Sorry Jono...

I feel like stirring up some trouble...

It's late and I'm bored...lol

Rob.

 

gotta take into account different dynos will read different, some have a 20rwkw odd difference.. some read low some read high, some read juuuuust right..

 

Well yesve got better tyres than me

My car ran 190rwkw on the dyno on high boost.

and I find I don't get enough traction to use anywhere near that on the street.
250rwkw in a manual must be diabolical to drive.

 

TTZed lists the following stages. The posted power increases are perhaps a little ambitious. However the stages in which the upgrades are done seems logical enough. I am inclined to think these gains are at the flywheel not the wheels. So you will have to make the appropriate calculations

 

Engine HP.

Yeah, those charts always refer to flywheel HP. They are fairly accurate though but shouldn't be compared to what you get on a Dyno because you'll lose 20 - 25%.

Cheers
Rob.