Davies Craig Electric Water Pump

will water be able to pass through that fitting easily as in flow wise?

Wouldn't a lot of the water just bypass it and not circulate correctly??

 

Guys all this trouble will result to how much in power gains??

Can some one tell me how much im expected to make?

Rear Wheel Kw's :unsure:

 

im aiming for a 20 - 30hp gain with thermo fan and ewp...

check the reviews from davies craig's website... some ford performance place had great gains from their rust buckets

i'm not only getting the EWP for the power gains, the ability to control water temp is also a feature that i'm looking for...

 

power gains off the top of my head

i'm expecting up to 5-10% power gain is possible with the fan and 10-15% power gain is possible with the pump (Link Here and Fan Link Here)

so if we scale that down with an appropriate propaganda factor, with both of these i'm expecting 10% power gain or more which should be about 20kW at the wheels right?

i'm doing the UR pulley at the same time, so if i score 50+hp in one hit at the wheels then i'm gonna have a big smile on my face

and here's a thought, if people are going to make up a blockoff plate, why not use your (or a second hand) water pump, just lop off the long pointy bit, get an aluminium welder to weld a plate onto it to block it off, and then you have a perfectly shaped and mated plate - thanks to minivan for that brilliant idea :thumbsup: my water pump just died so this is what i'm going to do :zlove:

 

While you have the water pump off die grind out some of the casting

crap from the coolant gallerys. Don't grind till it's smooth as coolant gallerys are meant to have a rough finish to increase surface area and hence increased heat transfer.

 

slightly off topic...

chewy, is that the knock sensor i can see in the pic above??? maybe i will be able to get in there and replace without ripping off the lower plenum.... :thumbsup:

 

Re: slightly off topic...

i was looking at mattz engine on saturday arvo after i pulled his water pump off (didnt look that closely at mine, i dont think you can pull off the thermostat adapter thingy with bypass without taking off the lower plunum in the ifrst place.. is that right chewy??

 

Re: slightly off topic...

i really think you are dreaming to believe that your water pump and clutch fan require 30HP (22KW) of power to spin to 6500 RPM.. and if they do.. and all your new shit is sucking 23A, which is .3 KW @ 14V..

id say that they wouldnt be pushing as much air and water around

i mean.. my underdrive pulley is 1/3 smaller, spinning the acessories (all of them not just the water pump) by 1/3 less teh speed.. yet most of its savings comes from rotational mass reduction.. and maybe 5HP comes from under driving the... water pump/clutch fan/air conditioner/power steering/alternator by 30%

imagine how big a 30HP fan would be, thats almost 100A at mains power.. youd suck in small children walking past

 

good point andy - seems a bit fishy

 

Re: good point andy - seems a bit fishy

thermofans are great because they free up space, and run when they are needed (mainly at idle).. not convinced on the whole power thing though

 

yes you have to remove the lower plenum to remove the thermostat housing

but that only requires about 8 bolts to removed.

 

i just want to make sure that

everywhere in the engine which sees coolant flowing past it - will continue to see coolant flowing past it in the new setup

i don't want to block something off if inadvertantly it will mean that flow to a region will stop

 

i'm only in for one set now

dad decided he didn't want one. still no word on the cost of the controller?

 

Re: yes you have to remove the lower plenum to remove the thermostat housin

if you already have your upper plenum and timing belt off that is?? haha

with no thermostat in, yes..

can you run the leccy pump with a theromostat and no controller??

what happens to the bypass circuit??

 

OK guys,

i've done some thinking in regards to implementation, and i see 2 ways of doing it

#1 the safe way - no change in flow direction, just changing the stock WP for the EWP, thermostat remains and all functionality of the thermostat remains the same

#2 the unproven way - this way is different to stock, and so therefore hasn't been proven, it is the way that chewy is proposing, and is potentially the best thing since sliced bread. it involves removing the thermostat so warming up should take longer but i expect it will be much better in terms of cooling because turbo heated water flows direct to the radiator instead of flowing through the block and heads for another loop of the circuit

First off, this is the stock Cooling Flow Circuit:


And this is a pic of the Cooling Flow Circuit under proposal #1

Basically, you make up a block off plate for the stock water pump, and have 2 hose connections on it, one for the inlet to the EWP and one for the output from the EWP - then you install the EWP down somewhere low near the bottom of the radiator and use some rubber hoses to connect it up to your new blockoff plate


And this is a pic of the Cooling Flow Circuit under proposal #2 - Chewy's Method

This one requires a bit more screwing around, but has the potential for greatness :thumbsup:
the thing is, the hot turbo water should run straight to the radiator in this method, which it doesn't do in the stock method

Here is a pic of my lower radiator pipe, under Chewy's method it would be removed, the inlet "A" would be blocked off, "B" would be re-routed to the top radiator pipe, and "C" would be blocked off



i say method #2 is more risky because it hasn't been proven, so we need to think critically about it - guru's needed! :zlove:

 

i think this all sounds a bit daunting for some zedders...

i am going to try a slightly different way, but very similar to option two....

i'm going to plumb the turbo & heater returns into the upper radiator pipe and feed the coolant back into the opening that chewy is going to block off. then i will just block off the mec water pump.

it sounds confusing but yes all of these will be quite simple to do... i spose we should just let everyone know of the progess and maybe we might have to extend the group buy time till later down the track?

we just need to give all the other zedder the confidence to do this or we won't make the required 10 EWP's.

 

yeah

i think you're right Tom

the best way to do chewy's method is to remove the lower and the upper radiator pipes

then fabricate something which takes the 2 flanged inlets and with a centre section which takes the heater/turbo water

this then has an outlet on it for the top radiator input

with some tappings in it for the stock and aftermarket temperature gauges

if we can get that centre section fabricated (and anything else fabricated such as block off plates etc) and get a run of numbers on it, then the install should become pretty easy for everyone

well you'd probably have to have a tech day for each install if you're a noob like me, unless you're a good experienced zedder who can do these things on your own, probably like Tom and Chewy

also, chewy, i think you'd want to pump the EWP into that top inlet of the stock WP housing, reason being, that centre section normally sees coolant flying through it. with your proposal to remove that from the flow path, that section will get really hot... which means that whatever is behind it in the block will now become hotter - it might not be a problem but it might not be ideal either... you will have an air pocket in there

 

on second thoughts....

after looking at chewy's design, tapping the inlet where the water pump is would be better... i got consfused as i hadn't seen the waterpump off...

i'm gonna do a bit of research once my lower plenum is off...

also my det sensor is cactus so perfect timing! :thumbsup:

 

but wouldn't the flat block off plate with the pipe coming out of it

change the way the water flows? As in, it wouldn't be as good flow? It would be like having a bucket and just punching a hole in the side of it if you get what I mean?

 

which blockoff plate?

the one covering the old water pump location? if you are talking about that one, then you'll see that all the flow must go through that medium sized hole at the exit of the stock WP - so if your inlet pipe is the same size as that, and its physically in line with it so that the water doesn't have to change direction too many times, then flow should be ok

or the one covering the inlet to the old WP via the lower radiator pipe? which is labelled "C" in my pic above... if you are talking about this one, well this is the path that all the radiator water has to come anyways in the stock setup... so there should be no difference

sorry i don't get the bucket analogy