"new to the market" from the same factory in China that makes pretty much all the cheap nasty rads for Z32s :rofl: I posted on the public forum so the next person that has the same issue will be able to search for it and find a possible solution. If you prefer I can post ALL my suggestions via PM rendering any searches useless in trying to find any new information for problems and fixes and we can continue to recycle the same old BS over and over and over. Why do you think the OP changed all the cooling system components? Do you really think he just figured he would go out and change them just for the sake of it? How long have you been in the trade (years I bet! you know better man!!) this is one of the first things most people learn about customers/owners/drivers. sometimes they don't give you ALL the facts. Sure HEAPS of people just go and overhaul the whole cooling system even though it was working perfectly before - YEAH RIGHT!! :rofl:
I had a shitty old hilux radiator that was crumbling and a thermo fan and it was amazingly cool as . If you seen the state of the rad you'd never believe it So unless the rad is super blocked which I doubt being new . BTW Mungyz I am replacing the whole system but if you seen the rad I had in it you would understand why lols
Actually man, I think he DID just overhaul it for the sake of it. While he was doing everything else I thinks its a great idea. He mentioned that the zed made the 1500km trip without overheating, so it must have been working before.
Heaps don't, but the smart ones do. Do you rely on 20yr old cooling system components? You can make it a pssing contest, or you can make it a civilised debate on the claimed 25% loss and why a lower hose can not collapse. If you believe this loss as accurate, you will be able to back up your claims easily. I know how the cooling system works, but the difference is, i know why it works the way it does. You don't need to dumb it down or side step the question for me, I can handle it. How have you measured this 25% loss? What was the block pressure before and after? What was the radiator temp drop across the core before and after? these are all easily answered.
You cant blame anyone thinking a new 56mm rad is going to be good for the cars cooling system . Im assuming if these cheapo rads are no good people would have stopped buying them . But that doesnt mean that they are all perfect Im sure these chinese factories dont have all the quality checks going on like a more established well known higher priced brand item . I would pull the rad out and flow water thru with a hose with little pressure . If it gushes out as well as it goes in I cant see it would be the problem . Having said that like everyone else . A simple swap over to the old rad will put this all to rest
^ yup, if it turns out to be this, then you know your main issue. if this doesnt solve it.... then backtrack your steps.
Yeah, I did. The car didn't have a single fault in the cooling system. I thought it was wise to fit an oversize radiator as I was putting on a FMIC in front of it. While I was there, I replaced the top and bottom hoses with silicon ones as the originals were 20 years old (and the silicon looks cool). I know a bunch of guys with these rads that run fine. I think I might've gotten a dodgy one. Marcus has a spare clutch fan and OEM radiator; I'll try the clutch fan first I guess as I'd prefer it was that then going back to a 20 year old radiator.
Yep Marcus seems like a stand up guy and will replace your rad if thats the case . "I hope its not because im about to put one in lols" I can always lend 'cough cough , give you' my shitty Hilux rad .... It cooled like a BOSS
Very helpful all of you, even if you disagree with each other, it still helps him work out his problem as he can see the logic involved- but dont let the testosterone take over and piss you all off with each other whether right or wrong, as all the input is valued, even by others (such as myself). You are all too valuable and helpful to the forum to let the testosterone take over your posts and this thread will help many others to come given the building up by all of you. (well done all) Why dont you step back anti and replace the original components 1 by 1 to eliminate the problem and find the cause, yep its a bit of mucking around and I would recycle the coolant in the meantime (just keep the runs short while testing) but at least you will get somewhere faster than just keep trying to forum guess it (even if the advice is logical) because in the meantime the motor will still be running hot (which isnt really good and could cause further problems) Start with the simple stuff that you mentioned has been changed since it began. Goodluck with it all - success will come your way soon
Hard pipe still had silicone joiners at either end... Besides which it won't fix the cause of the problem...
http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manu...e=0&cycle=off&slide=8&design=default&total=15 Note the engine cooling schematic at the bottom of the page and have a think about what will happen to flow in the system if you remove the heater core from this & leave that part of the system open. Water/fluid is like electricity in that it will take the path of least resistance, if you give the coolant the ability to cycle around and around with very little effort instead of flowing through the radiator ............................. The car ran fine on the way home apparently, but was it hooked up to a laptop with an accurate temp gauge or just the stock tempo gauge? I've seen temps of 130 degrees C on the laptop with the stock gauge still sitting bang on half - they are completely unreliable. Now that temp is being monitored via laptop the engines real temp is apparent, unless there is an aftermarket gauge in the car or if the laptop was used on the trip home we can't know that the engine was not running hot before.
If you remove the heater and loop a hose ..isn't the the same circulation happening just without the heater route into the cabin ?? Never had an issue running this way (82 degrees all day ) . . . I've never blocked the heater pipes off completely (always looped) BUT am now running upgraded turbo water lines through them . Was going to weld fittings to run a loop hose but Can't see a problem with it either .. (sticking up pipe is going to be a bleed valve) open to suggestions . .
If you loop the hose the path is the same BUT the restriction and therefore flow is altered, the stock system is designed to work with a heater core in there, this will provide some resistance to flow. With the stock aircon system operating correctly there is also a valve in there that will be controlling cabin temp by altering the flow through the heater core, when the cabin is getting to hot the heater core will get less flow, at some point the heater will get zero flow. I've not researched to see but I'm fairly certain the cooling side of the climate air is simply on or off & the temp control is actually done primarily by the heater core, this requires a significant amount of heating ability & therefore flow. Without the heater core in there to take heat from the coolant and to create resistance to the flow of the coolant - it's just a bad bad thing. It is likely another case of part/mod A will seemingly work just fine, part/mod B will also seemingly work just fine, you add both those parts/mods together and suddenly you have an issue. In this case we have the front mount intercooler added as well - making life very hard for the poor little Z. The heater bypass mod with an open hose might not cause any serious issues in a lot of cases BUT if you have a cheap Chinese rad added to the combo all of a sudden we have a thread about a Z overheating. You can blame the rad or the heater mod, fixing the heater mod will take very little time or cost, replacing the radiator might not actually fix the problem depending on the radiator fitted. The added strain on the system from the front mount intercooler has just amplified the symptoms from the other deficiencies. Black Beast what you have there will be fine IMO, it is almost the same as the stock system except with the heater turned off, there will be a small amount more flow through the turbos but it really wont be an issue unless everything is right at its maximum limits. We need to remember the stock system also flows the turbo cooling water up to the throttles and PCV ports as well, bypassing all that and leaving an open loop in the circuit as well - not good! well actually good if you are in the business of rebuilding overheated Zs.
Interesting... My old work Triton had a blocked radiator at one stage. It would overheat at highway speeds or under load eg running up a hill. The solution while I ****ed around trying to pinpoint the issue? Run the heater. The small amount of additional airflow (and therefore cooling) through the heater core was enough to drop it down to normal operating temps. I have no doubt that eliminating the heater core reduces the efficiency of the cooking system to some extent.
I blocked both sides just above the turbo line out/inlets (no circuit/loop at all) ... have ZERO water temp issues ... have not seen above 86'c and this was on the track. Have a 56mm radiator with oem fan and shroud and factory hoses ... nothing flash.
