You sure...? If... IF I ever went Electric, I'd pick either of these two: Over 3000CFM: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=30102803HO Approx 3000CFM (better used for thick Radiators): http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=30102113 From here: http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm That was a 10 minute Google search. MoulaZX
Update on this Swapped back in reconditioned OEM radiator and OEM top hose (as silicon one was trimmed for thicker rad) and took the Z away for the weekend. Now runs at a consistent 95 on the highway... it's an improvement! Made it down south and back, arrived in Sydney and blew the (silicon) lower hose. Turned out I'd cable tied it the wrong way, and it was scrubbing on one of the drive belts the entire trip... Finally shredded all the way through once I was home. Swapped the OEM one back in and bled it and temperatures seemed quite consistent. Going to re-bleed and take it for a run today to see what happens.
Consistent 95 is shit, you still have a big problem somewhere what the condition of your clutch fan? Have you tested it?
wouldnt really matter about the clutch fan if he is cruising at 100kmh. i would be looking at blocked gallery/hose somewhere or a shithouse waterpump. 95 is terrible. i would check thermostat and OEM waterpump. sounds like there is a real issue somewhere.
95 with the lower hose pushed all the way back on the belts is pretty good I'd say. I would guess that is good enough to kink the hose and restrict flow at least a little bit. On the plus side you're awfully lucky that hose didn't let go while you were away, could have ended badly.
Yeah, agreed. My current running theory (comments from experts requested please!) is that the clutch fan isn't pushing as much air as it should be, and with the larger capacity of the old rad it just couldn't cool enough. But it managed it with the smaller capacity stock rad... or is that retarded? I have almost NO air flow... NA front bar with FMIC. I picked up a big sheet of plastic today to make an under tray for the front, though. There has been a mild improvement in temperature since fitting the OEM hose.
These cars require a correctly operating fan at highway speeds, unlike most cars, airflow even at speed through the engine bay, is very low. If you do not want to cough up the 180 for a new viscous hub, refill your existing one with silicone fluid. 6000CST weight fluid does the job nice. Can be bought through hobby shops that deal with RC cars, same fluid they use in the diffs.
http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295454 You could get one from a wreck, chances are it is pretty dtuffed aswell.
forgive my ignorance but how could the fan spin the wrong way? the fan AFAIK could only be attached "the right way" so all things being equal and the motor spinning the way it is supposed to, not backwards, wouldnt the fan always spin the right way?
The fan could be fitted backwards, which would mean the curvature on the blades is facing the wrong way. But i do not think you can fit the fan backwards on a zed, never tried it.
Cool, thanks. Read the thread; is there any conclusion about the fan going full time when using aftermarket silicon in the hub? Or was that speculation? Would that mean a noticeable advantage in going for a new OEM?
Pure speculation. Most would be suprised at how much noise a properly working fan makes. Obviously new is better, as it has all new bearings and seals. But if yours feels and looks ok, just doesnt work properly, it is a good candidate for refilling. This is common practice with alot of fan clutches as part of oem repairs, so it isn't exactly breaking new ground.
Martin have you put new coolant in it? The amount of times its been re-used and in and out of the car, also its probably watered down heaps, buy new premixed coolant, and see what happens
