Ummmm no. This is what a thermostat is for M8. The only time id ever expect a too cool issue is running extended time downhill at speed in near freezing conditions with the heater on flat out!!!! If you have to rely on airflow changes to achieve a desireable running temp then your thermostat is opening too early temp wise. And bollocks if its brand new or branded Nismo, cost 3 times a Dayco 'stat or whatever verbal diahorrea printed on the box. There is NO real guarantee, that goode olde wax bulb type thermostats will necessarily operate on/near their stated temp!!! They can be pedantic natured little kents! Way it goes and way it is!! Its no secret that the TT cooling system is, when all is as it should be...errr.... adequate.... . Its shown time and again that almost any issue interfering with the cooling system, even the fitting of a FMIC at an angle, can result in unreasonably elevated running temps. Its all about maximising airflow thru a radiator that is at best only good enough for the job. Just because an aftermarket radiator measures/appears "bigger" in NO WAY means it necessarily peforms any better. There are too many factors working together, airflow, external radiating area, metal mass, internal radiating area and so-on to even guess why his bigger radiator was less able to do the job when something else was wrong. Only sawing it up and a very smart engineer will know that. In Antis case, the results clearly shows that when everything else is good, BUT when airflow was reduced, (buggered fan clutch) the "bigger" radiator did not perform as well as a stock job. Cant argue with this fact. Tells me that there is something lacking in the aftermarket job. More water volume alone is just a bigger heatsink and just slows/dampens the heating/cooling rate on the guage if that bigger volume of water cannot loose its heat quickly enough. Newhoo, its a good outcome for Anti. Cheers E
I have gone through 3 alloy rads..... all were shit. got a rad of chilledpain second hand. all the fins were pretty straight on it and if they were i straightened them. gave it a really good clean with pressure washer then fitted that + silicon hoses top and lower. i dont run any shrouding (will do just havent got around to it). drag racing with 4 second burnouts in second gear sometimes touching limiter (oopsies) and epic hard runs....... temp needle didnt move a MM. for a track car it might need a change but for a street/drag stock is excellent. just my 2 cents.
Lets just hope this is NOT the stock meter in the dash youre trusting. This stock guage, at best, is nothing more than an indication that the engine has warmed up at all. There are dozens of threads on this topic which will confirm this. My guage, and the one before it, reaches its mid travel at about 60 deg.C and does not move up to 100 degC and beyond! Both guages from both clusters and different sender did pretty much the same thing!! In fact, this particular guage/sender combo DROPS ever so slightly slightly between 80 and 90 deg!!!!!!!!!! Aftermarket guage FTW!!! L8r E
I have ecu talk. I had aftermarket electric gauge but found Ecu talk was more accurate so took all that crap off and just have ecu talk + new nissan CTS
