Won't stop overheating

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Anti, Apr 3, 2012.

  1. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    does this mean I'm going to have to bleed it another 12347234879423789423 times?
     
  2. Owen_120

    Owen_120 imaginary

    Only if your lucky, Might be more lol
     
  3. Mikey5555

    Mikey5555 Grid Runner

    Also buy new premixed coolant, just to be sure
     
  4. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Dude radiator cap is not holding pressure. I'm running Fmic and had no undertrays or fan shroud nothing at all. After 10mins of consistent on boost spirited driving ecutalk would see 91* and will then drop back to 84* pretty quick.

    I had the cap on there with whatever was on my new ams rad 1.3 bar and it wouldn't hold pressure. Chucked my n/a cap on 0.9 bar and it was fine.

    I'll give ya a call tomorrow, It's gotta be those stretched tyres.:p

     
  5. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    Maybe check the condenser too... Make sure it's not partially blocked.
     
  6. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    matt I'm not losing coolant though? I pulled over heaps of times and busted off the cap/bleed bolt just enough to vent any air, every time they just leaked water.

    what condenser jamie?
     
  7. Chilledpain

    Chilledpain Z Reaper

    Ac condenser? (fins) Or is it not present?
     
  8. mikez1

    mikez1 Melbourne Member

    lower rad hose

    Possibaly did you forget to use the clips or chunky cable ties to secure the big lower hose to it so it doesnt flex around once moving.right next to where it sits that big bar, if its not tied to it, the hose is going to bounce around and flex like crazy, especialy. If its silicon as it seem to contort a bit easier that rubber.
     
  9. ZDUCTIV

    ZDUCTIV Active Member

    Yep. That'd be my guess also. Wouldnt think it would be the fan because you wrote.

    and I should think the car would have no issues with no fan at highway speeds.

    Aftermarket lower rad hose collapsing is relatively common on the Z IIRC but if that doesn't check out I'd be getting the radiator tested.

    You said you're not losing coolant so that makes blown headgasket a long shot but check the state of your coolant anyway. Any oil? Milky? etc.

    I don't remember bleeding being that much of an issue. Fill it up. Take for a drive. Let it cool down and fill. Repeat as necessary. Has been a while though so maybe I'm forgetting something.
     
  10. iguanapeluda

    iguanapeluda New Member

    When I change the radiator with an aftermarket, I run 10-13 ?c more. In this moment, I change the water, water with additives, smaller pulley water pump, new water pump, viscous fan...

    And the problem were the radiator, from 120km/h the temp up and up until 100?C...I put the stock radiator, and problem solved...

    The problem is started with the new radiator?

    Good luck
     
  11. pmack

    pmack Member

    Common story , When chasing unexplianed overheating issues also add to the list , thermo fans and electric water pumps in place of OEM. And the Lower radiator hose collapsing as John and Eric have mentioned.

    I would put a mechanical gauge in the Radiator and verify the temp numbers your seeing first , then pull the thermostat and check it is functioning as it should (Sauce pan of water on the stove) against the mechanical gauge again . But as alway start with the easy things first.
     
  12. bRACKET

    bRACKET Do Right Dean

    Hes already checked the function of the thermo.

    My guess is a combination of crappy airflow due to your FMIC, as well as your radiator. Bigger isn't always better, but you know that. If I were you, replace the radiator with a known working one, or go a newer better one.
     
  13. Z32 TT

    Z32 TT Active Member

    I'll put in my 2 cents cause this really use to piss me off. I went through 2 aftermarket radiators and both gave crappy cooling. Check your ally rad I reckon it's leaking. Stock radiator and silicon hoses never had a problem since absolutely amazing and love the stress free thrashing :)


    I could cut one of those ally rads with a Stanley knife they are really thin.
     
  14. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    I agree it does sound like the radiator isn't "keeping up"... Thinking about it you have reduced the cooling medium (air flow) and increased the amount of water in the rad that needs to be cooled.

    Refitting standard radiator sounds like a good start.

    All this bleeding has me worried though, sounds like its sucking air somewhere... Get a new radiator cap too.

    Does it blow bubbles in the overflow bottle?
     
  15. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    Hey Anti I have a good stock OEM radiator here if you want to try it. Did you have this problem before swapping the radiator or has it happened only after you switched radiators?
     
  16. MoulaZX

    MoulaZX #TEAMROB

    Alright, finally remembered to hook up the Laptop (ECUtalk v1.53 beta) on the drive home from the City, so it was a mix of City driving and full freeway speeds.

    Never once saw water temp go above 88c, and that was while giving her a good boot. Coasting saw 86c and even dropped to about 83c a few times.

    While stopped in traffic it was hovering at 85-86c.

    All of these results were without AC being on and it was reasonably warm outside, little over 24c.

    Also to note, the circuit for the AC Auxiliary fan hasn't been sorted yet. So thats not kicking in, but having seen what temps I'm currently running, I'm not particularly worried just yet.

    What Radiator are you using?

    For the curious, my system is:

    - Standard Clutch Fan
    - 56mm ASI Radiator (eBay)
    - New OEM Thermostat
    - L-Shaped Aluminium Lower Radiator Pipe /w standard black rubber hoses all round
    - 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
    - SMICs
    - No Air-Guides what so ever
    - AC System still fully installed (but not re-gassed yet)

    MoulaZX
     
  17. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    AC is completely deleted
    This is a good point, I don't have anything securing the lower hose. It doesn't have that much room to move though?
    I know a bunch of people with silicon hoses, no issues? Coolant is very healthy pale green, no signs of oil what so ever.
    It's not leaking but could just be rubbish?
    The thing about all the bleeds is that after 2-3 no more air was coming out. I just kept bleeding it over and over because people kept telling me how difficult it is etc and that it must be repeated. Not sure about blowing bubbles into the overflow.
    No, car was fine before changing the radiator so the concern really is either the rad or the hoses. Cheers Marcus, I'll be checking the lower hose and assuming it's alright I'll come pick up that OEM one and put it in.
     
  18. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    This is what I was referring to about your rad cap, though if you aren't loosing any coolant into the overflow and levels stay full then that's fine.

    I'm going to blocked rad - try keeping the revs lower on the freeway stick to 80km/h or so see if this helps... and just check if your lower hose sucks itself in.

     
  19. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Sounds like it. I do doubt that the hose is pinching, but it's possible especially considering I haven't secured it in any way. I'll zip tie it to the sway bar before I leave the engineers on Thursday morning (60 km drive), go slow on the way home and go pick up an OEM rad from Marcus in the afternoon. Might be worth getting the aftermarket one flow tested?

    Thing is it's definitely cooling to some extent, just not cooling enough. So pinching does theoretically make sense.
    56mm from Marcus at Car Craze, more or less exactly the same as yours.
     
  20. Adamness

    Adamness Active Member

    Only quickly scanned through your thread but...

    Oil cooler??

    Soak the bastard in some petrol for a few hours, blow it out with some air and hook it back up.
     

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