Well I guess it has come to this... - The passenger turbo is leaking oil pretty bad. It could be the reason my car becomes a smoke machine when idling at the maccas drive-thru for 10 minutes and after cruises? Either way it has to be replaced/rebuilt so I may as well do both turbos. - There's a major boost leak somewhere. - I get a very strong fuel smell when cruising after giving it some and backing off. No fuel leaks in engine bay, thinking carbon canister related? (It was bypassed though?) - I need a trans cooler I'm sure there's more things I'll remember later. I figure I'll do it myself since I have no money lying around just itching to be spent Gradually buying tools, doing it bit by bit. I'm thinking to get the turbos hi-flowed by ATR for $750 each. I don't plan on changing manifolds or intercoolers or anything else so I really need a bolt-on solution and hi-flow seems cheapest. If I had a spare $4-5000 I'd just get Eric to do it all for me but I don't What kind of tools will I need? - Engine crane - Trolley jack - Torque wrench - Proper ratchet set with massive extension bars and uni joints What else? I have jack stands, a spanner set, 17/19/21/23/24mm impact sockets, impact wrench. I really don't want to do this but it seems I have no choice! Not happy Jan...
Normal socket set Engine crane Jack and jack stands Screwdrivers Nothing too weird or expensive. Pull the engine with the gearbox attached and then you don't need those extra long extensions with uni's. And thats about it to pull the motor. If you need to borrow some stuff let me know, won't be needing the crane for a while after the engine goes back in.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind How much are engine cranes and stands? I just don't want to borrow it and still have the engine out 2 years later when you might want it again lol. I would like to have everything done in 6 months but hey it's a Z, nothing ever goes to plan
Engine cranes are $250ish from supercheap. Engine stands around $100. You should get your own engine stand, I'm using mine for the foreseeable future If you need a crane you can just borrow it for the weekend then come and get it again when you want to put then engine back in.
Nice, good idea. I'm not looking forward to this.... pretty depressing. There's no way I'd get any reasonable amount of money selling it, or the Yaris. I guess we make stupid choices when we're young!
Not depressing at all! Good opportunity to get some big turbo's and rebuild! Those hypergears are looking OK Pulling the engine is pretty easy, put on a tech day and we'll all come and help
It's depressing when you don't have enough money to do it. The turbos were replaced with another set of second-hand ones 8 or so months so this is my 2nd set. Guess they didn't last as long as I was hoping. I'd be happier if I was upgrading, but I'm really only doing the minimum required to get back on the road.
Before you get too excited pulling it apart, take off the dump on the offending turbo and see if the turbine is dry. Chances are it is, the oil leaking is most likely carry over from the breathers, typical for most cars I have seen. What oil are you running in it? I know it doesn't mean much, but those turbos were off my car, all the parts I have sold off it are still going strong, engine trans, radiator etc. I guess what I am saying is looking at the condiion of the rest of the components removed, I would be suprised if your turbos are stuffed considering you probably havent done too many k's since they were fitted.
Alright I shall do that I switched to 20W50 a few months ago and I've only done about 1000km in the last 6 months... Your radiator is still going strong
Far out, nobody told me the battery tray was WELDED IN! I guess I won't be getting to the dump that way Also, what's the solenoid next to the battery? Does it need to be capped off as one of the vac lines from it was just sitting under the battery tray. I'd assume not, so is it safe to just got rid of the whole thing?
Solenoid is for the pvrv, get rid of it. You can get to the 2 dump bolts from the top and the other 2 from the bottom. Pull out the plastic battery tray if it has one. Also take off the little heat sheild on the turbo. It is a bit of a pain but still quite easy, just depends how tight the bolts are.
The oil leak... I have drops hanging off the crossmember every time I get back from a drive, even a 5 minute one...
To fix the oil leak, you can replace the gaskets on the turbo inlet connection. All high mile zeds suffer oil carry-over. The only way to tell if it is too much is experience, sorry I cant tell you X ammount is too much, you just have to know what you are looking at. One of those things that comes with the job I guess is knowing when something is too much or too little.
Well I got the 2 bottom nuts off the dump easily, they were hardly tight at all even for my girly arms. I could see the other nuts from the bottom but when I looked to undo them from the top I couldn't find them! The heat shield was also a PITA as the top bolt, which is a 9mm, has become one with the dump due to so much rust. No chance getting that off... The 10mm bolt near the actuator came off alright but there's also another bolt underneath that's too small for a 10mm and too big for a 9mm. I don't have imperial spanners, c'mon! So I gave up on removing the dumps. I also couldn't crack the nuts on the 14mm dump-testpipe bolts... stupid girly arms. While under the car I looked a bit higher up the back of the engine and traced the leak to a pipe sticking out the back. This may not be the source but I can't see anything above it that's got oil on it. This is the pipe I'm referring to, photo taken from where the battery would be: View from underneath where I originally saw it: While I was under there I took some photos of the rest of the oil I could find: The reason I thought it was the turbo in the first place: More oil...: The oil on the ground after one 10 minute drive: Driver's side now: Sigh...
Looks like the cam covers are leaking most of that and oilis running down the block. That pipe in the first pick is the VTC solenoid, which is sealed by the cam cover. Give it a good degrease, go for a drive and get another look at it, as the oil leaks out it is blown everywhere, the more oil thereis the harder it is to tell where its coming from. I would say pull the plenum and reseal the covers. Easy on yours as the bypasses are all done.
