cracks in the cones shouldnt stop speakers from working, however crackly they might sound. If factory speaker system is still installed, perhaps factory amplifier units are at each speaker. Maybe some1 else can shed more light on to whether or not they get their supply from the factory head unit or elsewhere? Ran new wiring to all speakers in mine, especially considering amplifiers are located behind the seats.
I have one 4 chanel amp behind my seat and ran ALL new wires from the deck to the amp and from the amp to the speakers. You have got to remeber these are quite old cars that we have and the old wires will not preform any where as good as new ones. I used 16guage wire for the speakers and ran an 8guage wire to power my amp. A couple of reasons that i can think of from the top of my head is.. 1) dead amp chanel 2) Crappy Fuse 3) wires are touching at one of the amp terminals and the amp is going into safety mode 4) wires are touching somewhere else 5) wires are not connected to the deck correctly.. (Remote) Hope this helps
Amp is working perfectly, all 4 channels are OK. I'm running the fronts off the amp and I had the subs bridged across the rear channels so the wiring there is OK. It's the exact setup I had in the Yaris. Only the rear speakers aren't working, probably due to the configuration with having a stock amp on each speaker or something. I will run new speaker cables to the rear speakers when I get a chance, maybe on the tech day.
Hurray! More presents for the Zed: Alpine Type R 6.5" 2-way 300W rears and a UHF CB from Pexzed's GB. JB Hi-Fi are having a 30% off sale so the pair of speakers were only $160! The rear is still in pieces from getting to the ABS actuator so I'll have to put the new speakers and cabling in tonight so I can bring Mr Zed on the Cruise tomorrow! Pics of the install will come tonight.
As promised here are pics : Unopened box (oooh aaaah) Front-on The magnet on this is HUUUGE! I could do some good bicep curls with them... I was in a hurry to get everything back together ready for tomorow I forgot to take a photo of them in the Bose boxes. Suffice to say I needed none of the bazillion adaptors and screws and mounting plates that came with the speakers in the box. The boxes were just deep enough to accomodate those massive magnets and the screw holes lined up with the factory speakers to I just reused the factory screws too. I ran a bit of insulation tape around the edge of the hole to try and provide some sort of padding and seal at the same time. I hooked them up to the amp and OMG they sound sooo good... droooooool..... o O o o o0oOoooOo0oo After that I finished installing the UHF CD Radio: The antenna is shoved in the A-pillar for now, but there's plenty of leg room to spare. If it was a bad spot I wouldn't have mounted it there would I! The main reason is that I'm just sick of pulling out interior trim and putting the main unit under the passenger seat just wasn't an easy option for me. Had I not pulled the back of the Zed apart I may have done differently... but what's done is done and I think it works well It's not too visible from the outside unless you know it's there so less chance of theft too.
Well a while ago I moved the antenna to the front left of the car, mounted in the front bumper - it works well Today, however, I got real down and dirty with: CARBY CLEANER! I forgot to take any before shots but here's the result of my troubles: The driver's TB looks quite scratched... but it was like that when I got the car. Then I decided to relocate the PTU. While doing so I dropped a socket down between the 2 radatiors and the IC hard pipe... I decided to send a screwdriver after it: BAD IDEA! In the end I got the socket out through the bottom and the screw driver out with the bendy thing you raise the scissor jacks with. It took an HOUR! GRRRR! Oh and I broke 2 scissor jacks in the process of jacking up the front of the car to try and get under to get the screwdriver out: OOPS! The Zed decided to fall sideways towards me and bent the hell out of the jacks - lucky I hadn't crawled under yet Here's where I ended up putting the PTU for now: (right side of pic) Took the Zed for a drive once reassembling everything. It started immediately without problems (I thought it might have trouble after a good squirt of carbon and carby cleaner). Initial throttle response is much easier, there's slightly less delay from pressing the pedal and actually accelerating. While under the car last night I had a look around and noticed the pass. side turbo is leaking oil and running down the wastegate actuator. Damn. It's not a major leak I guess. Braking is still quite hard and not very effective. I guess I could try new brake pads but even so, the pedal is hard to press and the actual stopping when you mash the brake pedal is.... pathetic. The car accelerates quicker than it brakes honestly, no exaggeration. To add to that there is a brake fluid leak somewhere (I believe its just leaking from the reservoir lid) The puddles of fluid are always directly under the reservoir/master cylinder on the ground, nothing near any of the brake lines near the wheels. Hmm, what else... Ooh I got the Greddy Profec-B SpecII from Ztealth but can't figure which hoses to hook it up to. I was going to run new lines from the actuators but I don't see it would be possible for me personally to get to the driver's side actuator. I also bought a set of Koni adjustable shocks matched to Lovell springs (stock height) for front and rear for $900 so I should get them early next week. I certainly won't be fitting them myself - I'll leave that to the guys across the road from work. That's about it. Once I get the hoses figured for the boost controller I'll install that and perhaps update again.
Go to Supercheap and get a telescopic magnetic retrieval tool. Not expensive and is small enough to keep in glovebox/small tool box and extends far enough to reach right down into the engine bay. As essential as WD-40 and gaffer tape! :biggrin: Looks like this:
I wouldn't leave your PTU sitting right down low behind your front bar. it'll get a lot of splash up on it when it rains and possibly give you more problems than if you left in stock position.
Mmm good idea, used to have one of those. It's under the nose panel, right next to the pod filter. Is that still OK? I've seen others put it in that position before.
OK well I installed the Profec B last night. This morning I went to test it no matter what it justs boosts to 13-15PSI. I've followed set-up instructions as per the tt.net thread and no matther what I set the duty cycle at it still overboosts. I gave up and then remembered I had an unused Simark MBC. I connected that up to the lines going to the Greddy solenoid and lo and behold, we have adjustable boost! WHATTHE! I spent 20 minutes around the local streets getting it set to 12PSI. Now my tyres won't stick to the road anymore at WOT... but that's another issue. So, what's wrong with the Profec B? I've obviously run the actuator and mani pressure hoses correctly because the MBC works. The boost solenoids are disconnected. Other than that, after 3 runs at 12PSI the exhaust smells a lot like sulphur, a lot lot more than it used to. Also the noisy lifter I had is now even noisier.... My brakes still suck and smell like a diesel train after they've been used. For the moment I'm just over it.... waste of time and money...
Got my dash bulb kit today and decided to fit it tonight. Took all of an hour (I'm getting better at pulling my Zed apart!) The current setup was pretty bad, the lighting was so dim you could barely see the gauges... Here's the replacement bulbs I used: They consist of 6 LEDs arranged like a flower. They outer LEDs are bendable so I was able to aim them different ways to get the best light coverage and eliminate hotspots. The results: Before After Before After The photos make it look like there's a dark spot around the 5-6 on the tacho but at night it looks really even and really good :d Very pleased with the result. The suspension will be going in on Wednesday so we'll see how that goes... Another thing to add to the wishlist: A reco'd auto with shift kit and SAW kit, or a manual conversion...
Boredom got the better of me today and it resulted in this: I hacksawed the centre divider off the fascia and found it filled the empty spot under the screen perfectly! The screen width was a perfect fit too. Tools required were a hacksaw blade, rounded and flat needle files and electrical/vinyl tape - that was it! Oh and a lot of blood...... a lot... To fit the turbo timer where the clock went took an awful lot of filing due to the fact I don't own a dremel clone... eventually got it to fit snugly. For those interested in how the screen and software is set up see these posts of mine: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php?p=854419&postcount=4 http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php?p=837265&postcount=3 Here's some more photos of the finished result:
Questions about your EEEPC. * What kind of mods did you have to do to get the screen in the head unit * How do you hook up the power supply to the car * How much power does it suck, and do you use it when the engine isn't running, or does this kill the battery * You mention OBDII in the thread you linked to, I was under the assumption that the 300 didn't come with OBDII until the 96' model, did you have to install any sensors or is it just OBDI? You really have an awesome setup
I kept the EEE PC intact as I still use it as a portable occasionally. Here's the screen I use: It's just a cigarette lighter adaptor that i've disassembled and hardwired into the accessory and ground wires. They were about $5 each on eBay. The EEE PC has its own battery so when not running on DC power it uses its own battery supply. I'm not sure how much the screen uses but I've watched a couple of movies with the engine off and there hasn't been an issue. It's also set to turn itself off when there is no video input (ie, the EEE PC turns off) and turn back on when an input is detected. The OBDII was for the Yaris. The Zed is using OBDI and IMO is far better. OBDII is slow, and takes forever to update data if you want more than 1 data feed at a time. OBDI updates all data streams almost instantly. I just have a Conzult cable connected to the diag. port on the Zed. It's not bad for an hours work, but I will improve upon sometime in the future (proper flush mounting, plastic rework, etc...).
Yep, the EEE only supports VGA out so I had to source a VGA compatible touchscreen. The touchscreen support is supplied via a USB connection. Also of mention is the screen supports RCA in as well so you can connect a reversing cam or PS2 and switch between inputs when you want.
Awesome. I was thinking of doing the whole car PC setup, hooking up bluetooth, gps and reversing modules to the car PC and running the VGA + USB cables from boot to double din touchscreen. My only issue with it is security, how visable is the double din touchscreen in the car? Would it attract more theives?
Lol well it's kinda obvious you got it if you look. I'd suggest dark tinting. You wouldn't see it at night with it switched off but during the day it's easy to see. I think the more OEM it looks the more deterred thieves might be. Factory installed stuff is usually harder to rip out than upgraded stuff. Another thing to note is that the EEE PC only has 3 USB ports. Mine are all taken up with the touchscreen, Conzult cable and USB audio card. I have a USB hub that I built a 12V to 5VDC converter for so it could be powered but even then only some devices worked on it.
I would be looking at a mini-itx board, so could just extend it some a pci card, what kind of audio card are you using to power your sound system?
