so let me get this straight, you have a 3.25l Z because the length of the rods from the crank to the pistons is shorter? does that mean that you engine is now a lower compression? how does this affect your boost? your turbos? anything else? it's pretty dam expensive isn't it... don't show it to andrew he's got the bug!~
haha.. nah i wont buy it.. stroker kits increase torque, but im not a fan of stroking (cranks that is) it replaces the crank and rods to bring compression back down matt why stroke when you can wind up the boost? factory crank is very strong..
I have a great deal for you Tezza, it's made of steel and people pay to drive over it every day. Situated closed to the Sydney CBD, with some potential for guided climbing tours. HURRY! Don't miss out on this opportunity. 11K for .2 of a litre? Jeez, going to UAS really did do some damage to you, didn't it?
Strokers dont generally lower your compression - thats why they come with the longer rods and by boring it out for the bigger pistons you also increase the compression ratio. The advantage of a stroker is less lag, more power and torque with less stress on your engine. Winding the boost right up to big numbers puts enormous stress on your engine - cracking blocks, bending rods etc. We're talking 2bar plus here. As they say there is no replacement for displacement. It is expensive, but JUN are super high quality and if you are making a seriously engine it would be awesome.
i dunno.. most of the big power zeds arent stroked dude, and the rods are shorter by the way not longer, otherwise the pistons would hit the head with longer stroke and longer pistons longer stroke means higher piston velocity mid stroke (limit of rpm is due to mid stroke piston velocity.. which is why big stroke v8s cant rev out and why f1 cars have stupid rpms (and motorbikes) theres many ways to increase power more air due to rpm (balance the rotating assembly, lightweight pistons, uprated valve springs/lifters) more air due to displacement (bore/stroke) more air due to pressure(boost) if you build the engine to take the boost (bottom end), boost is by far the cheapest and most effective (to a point) i'm going to 20psi theres better way to make more power for 11 grand + fitting
I would think that would be just about the last thing you would do to a Z motor, AFTER you've done everything else you could possibly think of. You can make heaps of power (400 RWKW+) without having to go to that extreme. nice find though.
yeah dont forget guys its not just a stroker, its a fully forged engine. i like the idea of stroker kits, but theyr usuall y like 4-5k not this much.
JUN's crank it's art guys dont forget that is lighweight slao i cant remember exaclty but almost the 1/3 of the original dont get confused this is for very high rpm engines
This would probably be the sort of gear that Jun used when building the Z32 that they took to over 400kmh at Bonneville. If they would care to throw me a freebie kit I'll gladly wear Jun stickers, slap in a 2.9:1 ring and pinion if I can find one and head of to Lake Gairdner ........
V8's I have a thing about stroker kits.. I admit 11k is way to much... I was thinking more along the lines of getting the stroker kit if you know what i mean.. "Back in the day" v8's all used strokers and destroker kits either to increase rev/midrange hp or decrease rev/ increase torque. Seeing that our cars are quite torquie and have good midrange, why not increase it with a smallish mod. I mean if your going the full engine rebuild then why not go the full quid... For that price its speculative but you also need to look at the company selling it. They are renouned for overpricing... *COUGH* *COUGH* (heard that before hehe). This can allow you to go to new limits. I understand it is .2 but this may be all you need to break the 500RWKW mark... hehe not much these days. i mean a mitsubishi lancer can get it with the right mods right????????????? hahahahahah I believe another forum member has installed this stroker kit during the rebuild... It will be interesting to see what its like.. Terry P.s Chili i would pay to see you mate let alone any other piece of metal... You gotta stop hiding in those sark corners... We need a refresh of your hurmour..... its been a while since my rib cage hurt.. HAHAHA
500 KW I see AMEC now has 450 HP turbos available, that should be able to get us over the 500KW mark, without having to go stroker. I've had my engine rebuilt with strong internals so it should be able to take it. I will most likely be getting those babies in a couple of seasons
No lancer is capable of 500rwkw.... 500fwkw, 500awkw... maybe lol they dont come rwd point is, if u have money the waste, its worth it, but if u want bang for buck, keep the buck away.
A stroker isn't about 'high figures' A stroked engine like that will outperform one that isn't stroked even if is producing less power(kw). You could get a custom stroker kit a lot cheaper than that, if the old database was up search would show that. I wouldn't waste my time doing all of that to a Z32, or any import for that matter. Money would be better spent doing up a real car like a camaro etc
Stock rods deform under load a lot quicker than genuine aftermarket forged rods. If you look at a quality rod side by side with the stock ones, the stock ones have way to many imperfections. I will take pics of this when my rods return from the machinist. It isn't uncommon for even an eagle rod to stand strong against huge amounts of power/boost. For the price, I think it is a good upgrade. I know many people (not on the forum) who have deformed stock rods quite easily. I also read that the stock rods are 'shot peened', not actually forged? Can anyone confirm?
.. yep, grab a corvette c05 or z06 and then think of stroking, mmm.. nothing like the sound of a stroked ls1 thats been stroked to 7ltrs.. agressive cam.. porting.. *drooooooool*
no.. theyre forged.. shot peening is done to releive surface stress from casting/machining, its hardly forging. yes i know after market rods are stronger. theyre usually twice the size, that wasnt my point
