i've got no idea, it would all depend on what rolling diameter you ended up with. Remember, wheel diameter is in inches and profile is in milimetres
The tyre itself would have more height, but width wise, there is no difference. I did have the hicas locked out on that car and had neoprene lining in the guards instead of the regular lining, but I was able to drop it down and have the tyres tucked under the guard without rubbing.
These are some common sizes and rolling diameters based on tyre sizes of the kumho website. Profile is % of tread width (don't forget to multiply it by 2 as it's at both edges of the wheel) add that to the diameter of the wheel. So unless you wrapping 25 profile tyres around your 20" rimm, or possibly 20 profile on the wide sizes, then your way outa spec. 285/30/18's are actually smaller than stock spec...nice. 225/50/16 = 631.4 Rolling Diameter (stock tyre size) 285/30/18 = 628.2 275/30/19 = 647.6 285/30/19 = 653.6 305/30/19 = 665.6 275/30/19 = 647.6 275/35/20 = 700
ride harshness... just to let people know that 20" rims will roll over potholes and bumps smoother than 18" rims with the same width and profile trye... the overall diameter of the 20" rim will be 2" taller than the 18" which will allow it to roll over imperfections easier.... good example to think about is a 20" bmx vs a 26" mtb going up curbs... the harshness generally caused by running 20s is because as previously stated the 20s people buy are normally on the heavy side (most other alloys i see running around too for that matter) which increases unsprung mass, and any increase in unsprung mass will deteriorate ride quality and tyre road holding. As for the pros to 20"s here are just a few -generally larger tyre diameter increases tyre footprint therefore increasing grip -the larger diameter allows the wheel to roll easier over imperfections as explaind above -if larger overall diameter freeway rpm will be lower -give better brake clearance which allows for larger disks etc -brake clearance also will allow any ducts or vents to cool better with improved breathing around the outside of the disk -rear brake pads can be changed without taking the rear wheels off allowing 5 min rear pad changes!!!! -if u like hotwheels toys 20s look awsome!!!!!!!!! -20's rolls off the tongue so well dont cha think my experiance with them.... i run 19" 245 35 fronts and 10" wide 20s on the rear of my car with 275 30 nitto555 rubber, my runs coil overs and was very low. The top of the rear rim sits at the wheel arch line and the tyre is in the guard. to make this work though and have absolutly not rubing in any situation took alot of work, i had to fold the lip on the guard to make it completely flat, grind a little of the rear bumper and guard which eliminated one of the rear bumper screw points then replace with cable ties, eliminate hicas, install and adjust new adjusttable rear upper arms, beat the inner guards out to tub them slightly for more clearance, modify the fuel filler tube (mine is a 2 seater and the tube is in the wheel arch), make a slight releif in the lower suspension arms because i have 10" wide rims they would hit the arms slightly at near full compression with my rear alignment setup( wouldnt be an issue with more camber) and do the rear alignment setup myself as at the ride height it was tyre places couldnt put the machines on it and centreline didnt do what i asked. As for the fronts, i had to fold the lip on the guards up to make sure the tryes dont catch the guard with alot of lock on over bumps which will tear the guard and cut into the tyre.... So after doing all that my tyre and wheel setup i think works very well along with the other suspension mods. As for potholes i should be able to avoid them if u pay attention to the road and know where ur tyres are (4wd taught me this well!) like you should anyway!! Also with the right width tyre on the right width rim the tyre should be able to protect the rim in the case of potholes jsut as well as an 18" setup but like any low profile tyre slow down a litttle more for trainlines conclusion.... i love 20" but u may need to do a bit of work to run low and fit fat rubber in o and chad... looks like dogballs u say??? just remeber this... n o b o d y likes u and ur stupid face and i watched the video of ur pathetic little chad mobile spin out as its tiny rear whells couldnt hang on remember lol so i say to u. GET SOME REAL WHEELS!!!!!:zlove:
there are heavy 18" wheels out there as well. You can get light 20" wheels which are only a couple of kilos heavier than light 18" wheels. You just gotta pay good money for them... And so what if they are a bit heavier, just get some more power....not everyones car is a full-time race car around the streets.. Show+Go=Win:zlove:
magsy has the perfect setup for 20's,looks very tough slammed you will be a bit quicker now batman with the saas wheel id say
Lol dude stop bitchn and lets do my screamers already. Just to clarify though my car spun out coz i had slicks at the front and road tyres on the rears dumbass. And i have some real wheels now u creamed all over ur keyboard wen u saw them remember?
lol fk u. U know the driver instructor was impressed. Wen he saw me go out with semis on front but road tyres on rear he laughed and said i wana know how many times u spin out today. And i only spun out once he was very impressed
It's always a funny sight to see at the strip when the noobs with 20" wheels cant get any grip because of their painted on tyres. lol If you want it for bling, then that's fine. Just know that it's most certainly a downgrade from stock wheels.
I dont wanna argue back and forth non-stop but i doubt that mate. honestly if i had stock 16" wheel with 275rwkw....i really dont think having a set of 20" with more grip on the road a downgrade. Get your facts right yeah?
It used to be a very well understood concept, that the key to improved handling response on any performance application, was to REDUCE un-sprung weight(this means ALL items that are NOT supported by the vehicle springs/shocks). Ask any vehicle designer(don't take my word for it). So heavier wheel/tyre combination's are a detractor from performance/handling, NOT an improvement(and that can't be compensated for by increasing power, as un-sprung weight is ALWAYS un-sprung weight).
Your telling me you cannot compensate for heavier wheels by making more power? you serious.... ofcourse you in regards to sttraightline speed. Handling though you need to get proper aftermarket suspension gear and set it up to for 20" rims and you should be fine. Anyways like iv stated before...the same idiots used to say this when cars moved from 16" to 18" standard rims. Just accept the fact that the new standard of wheel size for sports cars is 19" - 20". Upgrade your suspension and setup and the zed will love them. end of story
Im with ak. 20's are fine. AK's rims are better then 95% of what most people have. Thats all there is to it, but i guess there will always be haters. If you dont want them on your car thats ok, but dont take it out on us, gz. Its not like we care about the finer points like weight. We just want sweet rims. These are street car's people. As much as you want to think that they are race cars thay are not. p.s not using my car as an example LOL
How many race cars do you see with 20" bling bling homie wheels? It most certainly isn't the "new standard for sports cars" that's pretty hilarious. Dont be upset with people teasing you about your big goofy wheels, if you like them then who cares? Just dont have any delusional thoughts that you're actually helping performance by using them that's all! There is just no way big and heavy 20" wheels are as good as a set of super light weight 17" racing wheels. They wont handle as good either, among many other downsides due to the increased unsprung weight and the crazy low profile tyres. Arguing that is like arguing water isn't wet.
End of your story, maybe? So, now you know more about car design than any of the worlds top racing car designers/engineers? I just explained to you that there IS NO WAY to negate the addition of unsprung weight and it's effect on vehicle handling dynamics. Any attempt is only a compromise. Reducing unsprung weight is the only workable solution. Fkn grow up, you twit!
