Ok, battery has ~10v while cranking. How do I go about testing the timing without the car actually starting? Will the reading I get be accurate it I test it while just cranking over? Pulled the plenum again :bash: to check the injector o-rings. All look spot on. Each injector is nicely seated and central in each bucket. Although in the process of putting the rail back in I discovered that the large seals that fit in the lower plenum that the injector 'bucket' goes into are on their way out. One was completly stuffed, split and rooted. Could this possibly be the drama? I can't quite see how but I guess it's possible. Please discuss.:sorry: Work has come to a halt at this stage tho until I get some more of these seals :bash: Are they a nissan special or can I get them from a seal/bearing place? They are the ones that aren't round like a ormal o-ring - naturally...
Nissan standard for sidefeeds as far as I can see for the little flat round seal things. I have a few if you need some in a hurry... I wouldn't set timing while cranking, seems dodgy.
Not setting it Chris, just trying to get a reading that'll tell me if it's way out or not... I don't want to pull this plenum off again - rathe get some new ones if easily accessable Any word on if this could be my issue? I guess it could be sucking in a heap of air thru the mega stuffed seal?
Shouldn't be enough to stop it starting IMO. Try the timing light and see what it does while cranking, I don't hold high hopes... Had consult on it yet? If not done the paper clip method yet?
It's actually fuel, spark and timing. There's always air available for it to atleast fire. Mike's car isn't even doing that. Just borrow Pete's cable Need to know if its dropped the CAS, PTU or TPS??? The CAS wouldn't have been touched since it was running last would it Mike? If timing is the issue then you don't need the light. Just slowly adjust the CAS (if tested ok) left and right until it fires. Charge the battery first, it's a bit low. We've already eliminated fuel and spark as the cause. Now it's just timing and flooding.
This is true, if your ecu is reading under 10v, it won't even let you start it. Mate, i'd really try to get someone over there with datascan asap to check values of your junk. It may tell you something that you wouldn't have thought...?
BAHAHA! Yes, how valuable is your junk Mike and what could it tell you about your junk that you don't know? Just make sure your junk isn't on display
CAS is working AFAIK. We pulled it out and tested all spark and injector firing yesterday. It's sparking so that means PTU is ok?
Manual Woky, didn't know zeds came in auto??? PS can anyone tell me where I can get some of these seals from? The ones that seat the injector buckets into the lower plenum...
I think you are talking about the insulators Mike. Get them from Nissan if you need em quick or the lovely Caz. You know if voltage is the issue you can always try to jump start it with a running donor engine as that will feed nearly 14 volts.
I'm talking about the only rubber rings inbetween the lower plenum and the rail - insulators they are called? Cool Jump start will need to wait until I have these insulators and the plenum back on - trying to avoid having the plenum off again (even tho it's only 20mins work now) - still a PITA. So, at the mo can we eliminate fuel as the prob (since the plugs get soaked)? CAS is working as per test yesterday. PTU is working. Earth is no longer a prob as the big strap is now firmly attached to the passenger side head and the GB. Plugs themselves are sparking (but I have new ones to go in when plenum goes back on). Still need a consult cable to check for codes (easier than the paperclip) :sorry: What have I missed here???
Dude u can't eliminate fuel as the prob ? Im betting ur getting too much . do u smell shit loads of fuel when cranking? if the cam timing is correct and the CAS set to the middle position it should at least attempt to fire. U have spark U have air And u have fuel . U need to see how much fuel pressure u have . U can tell a heap by just listening to how its trying to start . Do a boost leak test to save doing another PP. I may have time on sat to come have alook . Trev p.s Have u tryed cranking it with the throttle a little open?
... and get a new bloody battery ... looks as if you are going to need one before long, anyway ... and best to take it out of the equation ....
When pulling the plenum...>> it is important that the two fuel lines between the plenum/fuel filter and the plenum/fuel return are connected properly. If connecting these two similar black hoses are reversed then the engine will not start. Just check that the fuel hose from the fuel filter is connected to the metal fuel line closest to the front of the zed. Cheers
