ECU timing is always on 20deg

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 8300zx9, Feb 21, 2014.

  1. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    OK, so nothing you've said makes any sense again then lol!
     
  2. parker

    parker Been around for a bit

    Well this thread has now got me worried.

    I am taking my stupid UR pulley off to check. And if also incorrect it can have a one way trip to the bin.
     
  3. QLDZDR

    QLDZDR ID=David

    OK I saw that bit about the TPS
    http://z32.wikispaces.com/Ignition+Timing

    but I also read the part where he said he checked his TPS
     
  4. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member

    Why throw it out??? Just re-mark it if incorrect.
     
  5. jamersss

    jamersss Member

    Make sure car is in N, TPS set to .44-.46v, idle is set around ~770rpm with all accessories off and check timing at full operating temp. Make sure the ECU displays no codes either.

    Then proceed to set timing
     
  6. Tektrader

    Tektrader Z32 Hoe, service me baby

    I've seen quite s few pulleys marked wrong like this. Just get s file and mark the right spot. The use black texta on the old mark so you can't see it.
     
  7. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Yep, and white paint texta on the new mark.
     
  8. tassuperkart

    tassuperkart Its a lie I tell you!

    You guys must remember. You set the timing on the pulley (assuming the marks are correct) at whatever the ECU is displaying.

    This way, the timing can be correctly set at ANY rpm, temp, throttle position or other influence such as a gearshift position in an auto.

    The timing that the ECU displays is what it expects the engine to be at that particular moment.
    Gross timing errors can occur if you just set at *blah* figure, but at that time the ECU is outputting a different figure it has calculated based on other factors such as temp, rpm and accessories.
    15 degrees initial timing assumes you have the engine at *blah* temp, rpm, out of gear etc OR have the ability to lock the timing. Im not too sure if you have this feature with ECUTalk, Datascan and so-on.

    It doesnt matter if the ECU is displaying 20/30/40 degrees..... the pulley must show the same figure. Thats what the ecu expects the engine to get.

    Secondly UDP's are notoriously difficult to get an accurate timing on due to parallax error as you can easily get a perpendicular view of the mark on the pulley and the pointer on the front cover. its always a compromise at best and this is the case on both the "Ute of death" and my Zed.

    I set the piston at tdc with a dial guage. If you dont have a dial guage then you can do it quite accurately with a little imagination and a Vernier caliper with a dial guage and THEN check the pointer against the pulley.
    Move your head around until you can get a repeatable figure and always check your timing with your head in the same place. it sounds silly but the range of error due to parrallax is remarkably high with an undersize pulley!

    Its often a better option to make a new single pointer very close to the pulley and a new TDC mark and then mark the pulley with 5 degree increments relative to that new pointer and TDC mark.
    Reduces the error from parallax down to academic figures!!!!

    E
     
  9. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member

    Well that's exactly what I have read and heard when it comes to timing until up earlier in the thread when everyone was saying it HAS to be 15degs no matter what the ECU says.

    It makes sense to me that if the ECU is saying I want to fire at 20degs then you should match the actual timing otherwise it will fire at 20degs when piston 1 is at 15 resulting in either pining or poor performance.

    Anyway... I'm pretty happy with my timing, and now with the new timing covers on, a double check over everything, I've successfully completed my 120k mile service! she's running great! :zlove:
     
  10. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Tas is correct, but the reference to set the actual timing to match the ecu expected timing is done with the car fully warmed up, in Park or neutral, and the pulley set to 15 degrees, at which point the ecu should also read 15 degrees.

    If this is not the case than something is still wrong.
     
  11. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member



    No, he's saying the timing the ECU is reading (and expects the actual timing to be) is the timing you set the pulley to. By what you said, your saying if its reading 20 then you set the pulley to 15 then the ECU will read then same :confused:

    There is nothing wrong mate. I don't have ping, and it's running better than ever. End of story... Timing is set.


    Thanks for everyone's help
     
  12. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    haha, no, that's not what I said, I said you need to set your timing on the pulley at 15 degrees and you should read 15 degrees on ecutalk, unless you have an auto ecu and the Park/Neutral switch isn't working in which case it'll read 25.

    The ecu actually has no way to know what the pulley is set at, that's why it needs to be set correctly. If you set the pulley at 20 the ecu once fully warmed up, idling and in neutral/Park will still read 15 degrees in ecutalk.

    There is a thread both on our forum and others with information on doing exactly this as a cheap way to trick the ecu into running more advanced timing across all load points. Set the pulley at 20, the ecu has no way to know it's not set at 15, and runs 5 degrees advanced across all maps.

    Actually I take back what I said above, Tas is wrong lol :p
     
  13. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    The ECU doesn't read timing. The ECU is tuned to fire at whatever degrees below TDC, and this is the number that is displayed on ECU Talk. The factory ECU has been tuned with your initial timing set to 15*. It has no "knowledge" of what your initial timing is in fact set to.
     
  14. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    Exactly
     
  15. Vader

    Vader Just another guy

    I believe the point is that your ECU should never say 20 degrees. 15 or 25, but at idle, warmed up, blah blah, not 20.

    I agree however, that if it does actually say 15, 25, or for that matter, 0, then that's also what the pulley should say.
     
  16. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member



    My Z is auto! Not only that it has a SAW kit fitted. I think it's setting the ECU to 20degs...

    I should of said that this morning on cold start its on 25degs in park/neutral. Then drops to 20. And when the ignition is set to ON... It actually cranks at 15 ;)

    I believe everything is happy.
     
  17. Adz_79

    Adz_79 I do it in a Zed

    Maybe the na auto timing is 20 with saw installed?

    My posting is regarding the TT auto, as the TT auto is different to the na
     
  18. 8300zx9

    8300zx9 Active Member

    Yes that's partially true. Of course the ECU doesn't know what the actually timing is set at. So if it wants to fire at 20... Then you should be the eyes for the ECU and be sure you match what the ECU says.
     
  19. Shane001

    Shane001 Well-Known Member

    No, it doesn't work like that. When the engine is idling with the correct conditions the timing displayed on ecutalk should drop and lock at 15. This is part of how the ecu works to allow you to set the physical timing correctly.

    So if this is not what is happening on your zed something else is wrong. Don't believe me read the manual :p

    But if you're happy everything is OK then that's your choice. Ignorance is bliss as they say :p lol.
     
  20. rob260

    rob260 Administrator Staff Member

    Dude where are you getting this stuff from? What I posted is exactly how it works. Anyway it's all there in the thread up to you to take it or leave it at this stage...
     

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