The exact same way you explain above. I have a spark plug lead the I'm using in between the plug and the coil pack. Clamped on the pulse pick up with the arrow pointing towards the plug.
Cam... As a guide, if the CAS bolt is dead centre or as close as you can get it by eye, it should be near the 15 degree mark.... If I read your post correctly, you're saying that the bolt is at dead centre, but its reading 20 degree's? Also, the auto ECU will read 20 degree's at idle. Thats normal. But all thing being equal, your base timing should be at 15 degree's at the CAS. Have you tried another timing gun? My old timing gun has an induction loop that connects around the coilpack wires. It was spot on. Can you get a hold of another timing gun and compare?
I'd be checking that pulley against an OEM unit. How do you know it's pinging? Define here for us exactly why / how you believe the engine is pinging. It makes absolutely no sense that it pings with base timing at 15degrees but doesn't with base timing at 20.
I am sure he was Mr Methodical when he pulled bits off and laid them out in order and put everything back on his car in the reverse order. So it can't be back to front LOL kidding.
I strongly suggest you check your TPS for correct operation as well as alignment. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Ignition+Timing
You didn't read the article very well. When I said TPS, I meant TPS. Re read the last paragraph or two. The article specifically states that assuming the CAS is correct, the engine is at normal temp, the engine is idling around 750 RPM, the transmission is in N or P (or not in gear), then the ECU adjusts engine timing based on CAS position and timing map. The map isn't going to change, so that leaves the TPS.
Just my two cents, I could be wrong..... With an auto, when the shift lever is placed in neutral or park, base timing should be shown by the ECU as 15degrees. When in reverse or any forward gear, base timing is adjusted to 25degrees to stop the engine from stalling. From what I've read, if the ECU is showing the base timing via consult as 20degress, the physical timing should be showing this as well...... Snippet from ESS-Racing Shift At Will kit mentions this a little: So what he was doing by reading the base timing (I assume by consult or some other nissan diagnostic software) as 20 degrees and adjusting the mechanical timing to 20 degrees is correct.
Thanks Adam. I didn't want to say so without a reference (which you have provided), but I also thought it was 25 degrees once you move from P. I think it is either the TPS or idle switch (that other connector hanging off the TPS connector) that is at fault. Still doesn't explain why it says 20 degrees and not 25 though
I thought it was 25 lol. A key point to understand is that the ecu doesn't actually know what the actual physical timing is, hence why it needs to be set manually to 15degrees with the engine fully warmed up and in Park or neutral as it's reference point. How long are you waiting to confirm the timing reported by the ecu is 20degrees. It takes quite a few minutes to fully warm up and the timing to drop to 15degrees. If it is really reporting 20degrees the only explanation I can think of is it's a chipped ecu that has had base timing modified in the ecu.
In most cars its NOT in the centre for 15 degrees timing. The centre of the bolt is about a 1/3 of the slot width to the left. IE: there is more of the slot visible on the right side of the bolt. If you have an auto ECU in a manual car as is said above, the neutral switch needs to be sorted. Or just ignore it and set for 20 degrees. Either way works. BTW don't use the PTU loop wire, it reads wrong. On most inductive timing lights it will pick up OK by just shoving it behind the coil pack with the clamp open. Lastly, OK so you have made sure the TPS is set correctly voltage wise. BUT you should check the switch is closed at idle and that its working correctly as the ECU uses the TPS switch to tell it its at neutral so it can retard the timing at idle.
Thanks for you contribution here guys! I appreciate it! I will follow that TPS procedure again just to be sure it is solidly correct. But remember there isn't much old stuff left in my engine bay! As I said before, I did check the TPS. I loosened the bolts and plugged in a voltmetre... Set my idle, and set the TPS. Both by confirming on the voltmeter and the ECUTalk. Checked its rang of volts to WOT and back and it's perfect. Nice find about the SAW kit setting timing to 25degs but like said above, it doesn't explain my 20degs :rofl: Mark.... When I first went to adjust the CAS. The top slotted hole had more gap to the left of the slot. Now once I've adjusted it, I do have more room to the right of the slot in reference to the bolt! It was definitely pining. It was a metallic rattling for lack of better words. And it only occurred under load. When I did the service, the crank sprocket was out by a whole tooth or more because the key over time flogged out the keyway. Do when I went for a test drive, it made the same noise, but very loud so I stopped thinking I missed something mechanical. Under suggesting when I asked about that noise in my other thread, it was suggested as pining. So I decided to pull the det bypass to retard the timing quick and easy. It worked! Then on my drive back to my folks for a visit, I noticed a very very faint version of that noise at 110km/h, cruise on and going up a hill. Once the hill was climbed and the load came off, the noise went away. So I'm very familiar with the pining noise. So guys, assume this. The engine is running silky smooth, starts (cold or hot) in the first rotation or less, the hesitation issues I couldn't find a gone, the odd 'power waving' in the some mornings are gone, it feel very strong and the most power I've ever felt this car at. So my question is.... Regardless of what the timing is at now, the engine seems more than happy. So how can my odd so called 20degs be bad for the engine if its happy? Disclaimer: sorry I typed this all out on my phone so sorry if there is some odd words in wrong places
Is your car an NA or a TT ? If its an NA have you ripped the EGR out ? If so, pinging is a common problem for some reason. I think Mark Jedi ended up getting a retune to fix it.
She's an NA and you may not remember my big argument ms about the EGR! Yes the EGR is in place and its new!
First thing you need to do is verify the markings on your aftermarket pulley match exactly the markings on your OEM pulley. If not you'll be chasing your tail forever and never find the problem. Maybe the markings are back to front? ie 15 is actually 20 and vice versa. This would explain why 'retarding' the base timing with your pulley induces ping. Also test your neutral/Park switch is working properly. Let the car fully warm up in Park and note the timing in ecutalk. Now put the car in Drive and note the timing again. On a car without issues it should be 15 in Park and 25 in Drive.
Well well well! The timing mark on the UR pulley is 5 degs advanced than the stock pulley! Meaning when I'm flashing it at what seems to be 20 it's actually 15! Explains alot ay!
So that means you need to set your timing on the pulley with your timing light at 10, which should then read 15 correctly at the ecu with ecutalk So setting the pulley at 15 degrees is 5 degrees too far advanced, which would explain some pinging. Setting the pulley at 20 and not detecting ping is still a bit of a mystery though, it should be pinging it's head off!
Oh sorry I ment the other way. I'm busy trying to get the car back together and cleaned up for tommorow! But yeah for my pulley now. 20degs means its 15degs lmao
