ECU timing is always on 20deg

Personally I'd be dumping the dodgy alloy pulley and put the harmonic balancer back on. This will start another argument lol but it's there for a reason

 

lol

 

Hahaha don't worry Shane I'm not that attached to the UR pulley so it might be getting the flick. But ill see how I go tonight with the ATCU back in. Ill set the timing then go for a drive With the ATCU, if that's good then ill put the saw back in and got for a drive.

If none of the above helps, ill put the HB back on my one 'performance' mode to the engine and its possibly causing all this.

 

Ok so this morning this is how my ECU behaves timing wise:

Cold start: 25deg timing on idle until warmed up

Very light throttle input in P/N: drops to 15deg timing, until more revs are applied. You can hear the change in timing when it jumps from 25deg to 15deg.

Driving off from idle (still warming up): I've now taken note of what the ECU does under light throttle in D. It drops down from 25deg to 15deg and stayed on 15deg for sometime until I pushed for more throttle. Seems very sluggish when it's at 15deg and light throttle, but I guess that's because I have my timing set to 20deg

Fully warmed up idle/driving: once it's at temp, the idle timing is at 20deg and the transition from idle to accelerating no longer drops to 15deg then up, it goes from 20deg up.... Which is actually really smooth with power delivery but I'm sure it's not right?

Anyway, tonight ill time it with the ATCU in and see how it goes. Ill set it to 15deg and go for a drive.

Stay tuned..... No pun intended

 

Why not check that the pulley mark is correct?

If you place No 1 cylinder at TDC you should be able to check in the TDC mark lines up. Removing the spark plug and using a long piece of rod to feel the piston rising should not take too long.

MichaelZ

 

No. Here's the thing. The ECU works out what the timing should be. The function of the CAS adjustment is simply to align the physical timing with what the ECU is calling for. If the ECU wants 20 deg BTDC then adjust the CAS so that the engine is doing exactly that.

If you think the ignition should be 15 deg BTDC when the ECU wants 20 deg BTDC then you have big problems with the engine control.

 

Mate, read the thread, we're about 3 pages past this.

 

Yes I know, but in those 3 pages there seems to be lot of confusion about this particular point.

 

Lol, 5 pages... I'm reasonably certain it would be quicker to check the FSM and do what it says. They may have known something when they wrote it.

However, NA or TT doesn't matter. Auto timing at idle in P/N at operating temp is 15. Timing in gear is 25. This will revert back to normal mapping as soon as tps idle switch is open which happens to be 15 and up.

If your car or anyone's else's isn't doing this its broken.

 

Helpful how?

 

Thanks for your input mate but I was the one going by this rule all along! I was told by (almost) everyone hear to not follow what the ECU says.

 

Yeah I did this tonight Michael. And it was out by 5! As in the reading on my pulley landed on 5 when it should have been 0 at TDC correct?

So tonight I pulled everything out again! Belts off and pulley off. Decided to do away with it. I figured my water pump is running slower now and my alternator now was to which I was having voltage issues the other night with headlights on and wipers. So back to the stock slogger. So damn heavy, but it means I can forgot the pulley as being a cause.

Put in my stock ATCU in and started it up. She's running at 15deg on my ECUTalk! Yay! Thanks ADZ_79! So chucked in D and I got 25

Next I checked temp...at 82c. Checked TPS at .45v. Checked idle at as good as spot on 750rpms. Pulled the coil, put the extension in, loosened the CAS bolts and connected the timing light. Clocked the pulley at 15deg.

Went for a test drive and she feels nice and strong. Thing is though, I went for a high load run up a steap hill near by at 80km/h and I still got a little tiny bit of ping. Little metallic rattling sound that I doubt anyone else would notice its that faint, but it's there I mean that's a very high load situation that it did it in. I was in lock up (5th) I pushed the throttle down enough up the hill enough so it wouldn't shift down. Doesn't do it otherwise. It shouldn't do it ever correct?

Should I retard it some more to resolve this? It would only need a few degree I would bet. But beyond that... Why isn't she happy at 15? Everything checks out!

Here's a pic of my CAS position for those with a sharp eye, excuse how dirty it is

P.S the above was written on my phone...hope it makes sense!

 

I guess your right... I'm just being how I usually am. I like to cover everything and give it a good shake down after such a big service.

 

Agree, just about any car loaded up in the wrong gear going up a hill will ping.

 

3 points

1. Winding the engine over until the piston gets to the top is not how you find true tdc. As the pistons changes directions at top and bottom of the stroke, the pistons pauses for a moment, it is not a fluid motion, this is called dwell. There is only one way to find true tdc and that is top stop the piston near the top of its travel in direction of rotation and against, mark and measure. Not going to fully explain cause its not what this thread is about. But doing it how you did is not accurate enough to say its off 5 deg

2. Cas is exactly where I would expect it to be

3. Loading it up with the saw outside of its intended operating range is stupid, the maps aren't built to cope with that. The engineers expect it to down shit long before those group of cells are reached. Sounds like its working fine to me, taking it outside its intended use isn't an equipment problem, it's a user problem.

 

Perhaps I over exaggerated how I conducted my test.

I didn't have the SAW kit in. So I wasn't forcing it to stay in a high gear, it had the opportunity to shift done if the pressure load was enough. Just like if you tramp the throttle it will load up and the auto will then shift down and go.

So yes it was in a high gear but I was going 80km/h up a steep hill and still accelerating.

You could be still right, perhaps it still was too much and something like that would induce ping in any car.

What I was trying to do is replicate Sunday when it was happy all day until I hit the twisties. Then from then on, as soon as there is hilly twisties it would ping. I'm sure it should be are to take more load than that!

Anyway, I shall do more driving and see. It was only a quick test drive only showing two types of driving...climbing a hill (ping) and normal driving w/fast accelerations (no ping).

 

You positive its pinging?
Any possibility its got some loose exhaust heat shields/blah?

These things have a fairly soft tune, Id be mighty surprised if it rattling with next to SFA boost at low rpm.

E