Hey guys, just doing my timing. The ECU is on 20deg though... No error codes and all my sensors are new! TPS is set correctly and all. Thing is... Since doing my timing belt service I fixed up the crank sprocket... Which if you remember was flogged out So I was getting massive ping as the timing was completely defferent. Pulled the knock sensor bypass I had in to retard the timing and it stopped the pinging. The ECUTalk said 20deg on idle which I assumed was because I was running the knock error on purpose. Thought it would change when I put it back in but alas I was wrong So why is it on 20deg? What should I do?
Are you warning it up first? Also I'm not sure how the auto 'box affects things but perhaps try in N?
It's at temp now. When I have ignition ON and ECUTalk on before starting it says 16 deg... I start, then it says 20deg straight away! Ill try sticking it in neutral
Ok so I tried everything I could... Played around with the TPS to make sure surely was on .45v on the ECUtalk and also on the voltmeter. Made sure the idle was good, made sure the temp sensor was good... All plugs are clean... No error codes, the lot! But still 20degs So I did what you should and made sure the physical timing matched the ECU at 20degs. I don't have any ping and she's running great! Now is there still an issue as it set on 20degs? Is this bad even though I don't have ping?
That's not what you should do... ECU timing assumes CAS timing is set to 15*. Reset the CAS before you do some damage and look for the cause of the problem...
How do you reset the CAS? I've been told what the ECU wants to fire at, in this case 20degs. You should set the actual physical timing to match the ECU otherwise you get pinging... And I do if I try for 15deg physical timing.
you are using a timing light yet? If using an induction type, are you connecting at the coilpack connector? If so, try checking timing with the spring loaded induction receiver held in the open position- Can get variations in timing between having it open and closed this way. (Its best to use a short silicone plug lead run from the coilpack to the plug and hook the sensor on to it). Removing your DET sensor bypass in an attempt to rectify the problem is.... for lack of a better word.... dodgy. and yes, what rob said, you set your timing to 15-degrees, with the engine at operating temperature and idle speed set correctly. You DO NOT set it to match whatever your ECUtalk or Datascan is saying.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe autos run ECU at 20. I remember my old manual car I found timing was at 20. I check the base timing (with light) and it was correct at 15. I was then told that autos are set to idle at 20 and that it won't make any difference so to leave it. Apparently as soon as you hit the gas all things become equal. I assume that's referring to fuel/timing maps.
I have the DET sensor bypass in because it runs the fault constantly due to a non OEM DET sensor and old sub harness. So by having it in, it's running as if all that was working properly. Why would I set the timing when it's running the fault code and running retarded timing? I'm using a spark plug lead as an extension to the coil pack. If I time it to 15degs I have ping, if I set it to 20degs I don't have ping and in runs smooth and strong! I'm going to have another look tomorrow. But really if I don't have ping and it's running so good, why would it be bad? To me it says its running happily? No?
As has been said above, the physical timing at the CAS should be set to 15. If it is set to 20 this is 5degrees advanced at all load points and will be more likely to ping than if set at the correct 15degrees. Download and read the manual to understand how to correctly set this. If you are getting ping with the CAS at 15degrees, and not when it's set at 20degrees, you have something very seriously (I can't say that word on this forum or I'll get in trouble) up lol! Auto ecu's do show timing at (from memory) 25degrees when idling when not in park. If you run an auto ecu in a manual there is a wiring bypass you can do to disable this. Do a search
If I'm getting pinging at 15degs then what could be wrong? As I said everything is new! The whole front if the engine is new, all the sensors, all the plugs, all the under plenum usuals the lot! When I put the timing belt on I had all the marks lined up and checked them about 5 timed or more! Lol so I'm not a few teeth out on the timing belt. It's got me stuffed! All I know is its happy at 20degs and is running better than it ever has, so why not leave it? What would it be doing?
Doesn't make sense dude. If it's pinging with the CAS set to 15* then it should only get worse at 20*. Are you sure it's pinging at all? And how have you connected the timing light? Assuming cam timing is correct (and it should be if you have checked and double checked as above) then pinging could be caused by overheating (perhaps you are not reading timing correctly and it's seriously retarded and putting EGTs through the roof?) or excessively lean mixture. I'd start with the timing light. Have you put an extension between the coilpack and the plug on No 1 cylinder and put the inductive clamp around this? Or are you measuring timing some other way?
Yes, I am also using a Hella branded light. I'm holding the light and shooting it at the marks at about 10-11pm. I'm also looking at the marks by eye at this angle and I spot the mark flashing at 20degs. I pulled the temp sensor out and checked it just in case but its brand new and still looks that way today. Plugs new too as I've said. So my temps read at 83c as an average. So no excessive temps. Even on the 46deg c day sitting in a traffic jam it only got to 98deg c. I have put on the unorthodox pulley. Is this a cause? I was reading a thread on here about the timing marks being out by 5 sometimes 10degs! I didn't check mine against the OEM pulley, it might pay to check that tomorrow. So yeah, the top bolt on the CAS is pretty much in the middle of its adjustment range so it's not like I have it all the way one way if that gives you a hint? It's defs pining because when I adjust the timing back to 20degs it stopped the pinging but there was still a slight ping, so I have the CAS a slight tweak clockwise and it didnt make that very slight ping noise. So by turning the CAS clockwise, I was able to fine tune the ping away. Checked with the light and its bang on 20degs. The silly thing is it depends what angle you look at the damn marks but it's on 20degs for sure. And running soooo damn well!
UR are one of the "better" brands but hey it's a possible lead so yeah follow it up How are you connecting the timing light?
Maybe the problem is if you are running an Auto trans check the switch on the gear box this switch tells the ECU if it is in gear or neutral ,when you select drive the switch advances the timeing to 20deg. advance so the engine does not stall. This is the same switch you bridge out to earth when you run an Auto ECU on a manual gear box car. In other words switch is not set or is faulty.
Like he said. With an Auto, The diag screen will show 15degrees when in P then put in D and the diag screen will show 20degrees. Start driving and the numbers are all over the range. Find that table that lists the stock timing degrees at revs and compare. PS, don't brick your engine
