If you are looking at swapping out the heads have a talk to Eric (drz400y). He quoted me a very reasonable price not that long ago. It turns out I didn't need reco heads in the end .
Another big thanks to Eric, and on Origin night too. Final diagnosis- engine shagged. Still happy with the price I got it for. On the flipside, found out that car is a '93 Model, rather than the '90 as first thought. Fair trade off (Motor=Boat Anchor to Car=3 years later Model)
So, by way of explanation Eric .... does the bent rod increase the swept volume thereby decreasing the compression in that cylinder? So most likely it was a hydrolock situation then?
I would say hydro lock. Bent rod means the piston will not be sitting square in the bore, giving alot of leakage.
No worries with parts. Will inquire about missing bits again on Friday. If was keeping, would definitely go for your 300CHEVX conversion. The ups and downs of every situation. Hernia= time/ limited ability to play with projects, but no more income to play with. What's the going rate for a kidney on the black market? Will make a few phone calls tomorrow regarding import motor. Already emailed member Trevsay, but understand he's in Japan. Anybody know if he has a contact for his business over here in his absence, or an alternative recommended supplier for a VG30DE motor? Preferrably in Brisbane area. Will most likely throw 1 of those in, with 200K Service kit and spare polished stuff.
Picked up replacement motor today. Huge thanks to member SILVER300ZX, your Convertible looks sensational. Wishlist emailed to Caz. Time to have a look at pulling existing motor.
motor and G'box out, with a couple of minor hiccups that included:- 1. Drivers side exhaust- 1 Nut stripped, had to cut exhaust, which then fouled on steering when removing. Managed to manouver 5" angle grinder into bay to cut stud off while motor suspended. 2. Passenger Side Exhaust- When cats were replaced by previous owner, it looks like they had an epileptic fit when welding Cat temp sensors back into place, thus welding the sensor itself to the cat. 3. Engine mounts came out in a multitude of pieces. Didnt have them on the goodies list from Caz. On bright side, I can now say I've done it..... and NEVER EVER EVER want to do it again. For you mechanics who do this for a living, I tip my hat to you, and wonder how you avoid straight jackets! Definitely NOT looking forward to putting replacement motor back in.
Progress is being made. *GenIII Engine mounts showed up. Engine mounts and crossmember drilled out to suit larger threads (12mm opposed to factory 10mm). *EGR removed. *Received status update on expected parts. Should be sent today.... so hoping to receive by Friday at the lastest. *Just picked up modified heater hardpipes- outlets for plenum, throttle bodies etc cut off and brazed over. Should eliminate a few potential future coolant leaks. *Last of polished gear should be done this week- Throttle bodies and linkages and 1 water hardpipe. *S2 PTU has been soldered in and relocated to underneath nose panel *CTS and second temp sensor has been lengthened and re-routed through nose panel also. *Power Steering ressy located to underneath nose panel. Going to attempt to fit motor and auto tranny tomorrow. Will fit up 100K service gear with motor installed. Spent a "couple" of hours cleaning up parts while waiting. Will post up some photos when assembled (still looks hideous without cam covers installed). Fingers crossed, will be ready to turn key by Saturday.
MOTOR IS IN! Box mounted up and tailshaft fitted. Just finished. When hell freezes twice over and I attempt to try this again, will definitely be taking the advice to drop the front crossmember. Real PITA getting the hoist at right height, combined with auto box jacked up (with board between jack and box to allow movement) just to get the sump to clear. Holden Gen III engine mount alternatives worked a treat. Took a whole of 10min to modify the crossmember and engine mount brackets to accommodate the larger stud size. Pics will be up tomorrow. Being optimistic and hoping order shows up as well. Have to get exhaust welded where I cut it off. On track for running by Saturday still.
Cleaned and tested injectors just picked up (thanks Eric/Drz400y). Exhaust repaired and refitted. Parts didnt show up today.... fingers crossed for tomorrow. She can finally come off the stands :zlove: Couple of pics
Run out of time, and come to a grinding halt. Parts STILL haven't showed up, almost 3 weeks after ordered. Somewhat disillusioned with Australian supplier atm Big thanks to Eric/DRZ400Y for o-rings etc to at least get injectors and fuel rail re-assembled and fitted. Last couple of pics for a while. Its a little less painful on the hip pocket when you limit yourself to $50 every time you go to the bolts supplier for S/S equivalents. Where possible, every bolt,nut,washer has been replaced. Throttle body bolts have been polished. Fingers have a permanent silver tinge from applying anti-seize to everything Plenum, balance pipe and fuel lines all ready to be bolted up. HAD hoped to have car mobile by now, at the very least. Unfortunately, will now be put on hold till September at the soonest.
She runs again! Purrs like a kitten. Cooling system holding pressure and not leaking a drop of anything. Bit of lifter noise till it warmed up for the first time. Cyl #1 coilpack is breaking down once warmed up, but only on idle. Can't physically see where its earthing out, but it can be heard. No cracks or visible deterioration in lamination, but received a nasty jolt when removing bolts from plenum. Suspect IACV/IAA isn't operating properly. Starts fine when cold, but cold idle is 750RPM Remaining list:- 1. Fill Auto Transmission and ascertain condition. 2. Upgrade remainder of cooling system- Alloy Radiator, dual thermos, new Upper and Lower radiator hoses. 3. Finish Cam cover breather re-routing to catch can under nose panel. PCV's have already been blocked at Plenum end. 4. Off to the chrome plater for Coilpack brackets, cam sprockets, balance pipe, fuel lines, accessory pulleys. 5. Fit UDP 6. Air-con regassed. 7. Compression test. Was said to be 180-psi across the board when removed from vehicle. 8,9,10-150. Spend more $$$$$
Got the weekend off, so decided to install UDP, alloy replacement radiator and silicone radiator hoses. Doesnt look too good. Installed new alloy radiator, let idle with cap off, slowly topping up with coolant till thermostat opened. Cap down, let pressurise....... and a constant plume of steam started coming from engine bay. At first thought it was hi-temp paint baking on exhaust manifolds, till water could be seen bubbling through the 02 sensors. Walk around the back of the car showed mass amounts of water coming from each tail pipe. Bit of gas and looks like a sauna from behind Needs a little further investigating..... dont want to jump to any conclusions yet. Trying to stay optimistic
Well, it's been a little while since posting progress. Enthusiasm certainly isn't lacking.... simply time has been the biggest constraint. List of replacement thus far is:- *Genuine Stillen Nose Panel *Apexi Power Intake Pod Filter *Alloy 40mm Radiator *Chrome Plated Radiator Mounts with new upper and lower rubbers *Silicone Radiator Hose Kit *Timing Belt, tensioner and idlers *Water Pump *Thermostat *UDP *Cam and Crank seals *New Aux belts *S2 PTU, relocated to underneath nose panel *PVC's blocked, breathers re-routed to catch can underneath nose panel *Injectors cleaned and flow tested *Injector o-rings *02 Sensors *Coilpacks *Plugs *Cam Cover gaskets *Upper Plenum Gasket *Throttle body gaskets *Polished Water Hardpipes *Polished CAS and Bracket *Polished Throttle Bodies and linkages *Polished Plenum *Plated Fuel rail *Plated IAVC Hardpipe *Bead Blasted and painted mounts (engine, A/C Compressor etc etc), injector rails, balance pipe *Coilpack Connectors replaced *Injector Connetors Replaced *CTS connector replaced and wiring re-routed *IACV IAA connectors replaced *Det sensor bypassed *Engine Replaced *PRVR bypassed *EGR Removed *HSV GenIII Engine mounts *Gearbox mount replaced *Silicone Heater, IACV, IAA hoses *S/S Bolts replaced throughout for everything.... bar the 7mm bolts for exhaust cam sprockets. Cant even get them matched in zinc *Cat temp sensor bypassed *Previously leaking exhaust re-welded *Interior dash pods replaced *LED Conversion kit to pods, dash (with additional diffused cluster LED's fitted to illuminate top of speedo and tacho), centre console (with additional staggered 4 x 3mm Led fitted to Auto Shifter illumination) *Auto Shifter replaced *Carpet Replaced *Leather Seats replaced *Hatch Carpet Replaced *Hatch Trims replaced *drivers door handle locking mech replaced *Drivers electric window internals replaced *Factory EL rear panel Cost has been surprisingly cheap, and enjoyed it thoroughly..... most of the time. Front TT bar plastic welded and new cowel panels and its off for rego. Then, windows retinted, full respray and a set of 370Z 18's and all will be finished. Then on to the next one
Great project. A labour of love for sure. Been an interesting read, thanks. The day will come and you'll have her finished, then what? lol.
already have the itch. Been looking at others over the last couple of weeks:- *Outbidded on the '93 NA 2-seater slicktop on ebay with a blown motor *TT 4-seater on Boostcruising with motor troubles sold just after owner replied to further inquiries. *Just took a look at the relisted '91 TT 2-seater slicktop on Ebay. Motor sounds healthy, but body is beyond salvaging from the looks of it. Fair bit of bog work and suspected rust below missing passenger cowel and battery tray. Probably suitable to strip, but know I wouldnt be able to bring myself to strip a factory black TT Slicktop...... maybe a grubby 4-seater targa It is amazing just how much can be saved in doing it all yourself..... with some priceless advice from Eric (drz400y), even if i was a bit sleep deprived most of the time. Will probably get the original TT slicktop a little less defectable and attempt to re-register it next.
