S2 intakes are shorter than the S1's. EGR was deleted on the '95+ motors No, all of JWT's fancy cams are S2. You need the adapter to make the S1 intake gears work with the S2 cams. So you can use those adapters with S2 stock cams with S1 intake sprockets.
If you have series 2 cams then the adaptors will let you use series 1 sprockets, much cheaper and easier to source than series 2. I have a set of adapters and good series 1 sprockets (no noise with big cams) that came off my motor when I switched to series 2 gears. Send me a PM if you're interested
Dydy has a 93 in the same colour (i do love the colour!). I got some stuff of him aleady. He may still have a front bar available for sale??? Send him a PM.
cheers for the clarification. Understanding that my NA Auto has S2 Intake Cams in it and my spares TT Manual motor (with sprockets) is Series 1. Question- Are the Intake Cams interchangeable? Hoping it is a simple matter of unbolting and swapping over? Thanks Evil Twin with contact. Main priority now is ascertaining exact condition of motor. Having read Eric's LS1 conversion prices .... a bit of me is hoping motor and auto are fubared. Not permitted to work for 6 weeks however at the soonest, pending full medical clearance
well, intake cams changed over, all all cam sprockets fitted. Timing belt fitted and retensioned. The motor turns over using a socket on the crank pulley (no spark plugs of course). Is encouraging, but still just a start. Spare battery is on charge. Will have plenum on tomorrow, hook up the battery and see if it cranks. Baby steps, cant spend too long leaning over an engine bay atm. Cheers for the help so far people
ITS ALLLLLIVE! Running like a pig, wont idle.... multiple vacuum leaks and connectors perished to the point where just the terminals are left! BUT IT RUNS! Will solder in S2 PTU, new injector and coilpack connectors and go from there. Still no cooling system hooked up, so head gasket is still in question, but all needed even if motor needs replacing.
Bit of advice: Broken Coilpack connectors - N14 Pulsars have an identical connector. Located on Passenger side chassis rail, close to firewall. Direct fit, IDENTICAL plugs. Get about 300mm of length on the wires. V6 Maxima's have 2 per car, but you only get about 50mm length on the wires, unless you peel back more of the loom to expose the wires. Broken CAS Connector- Plug in the V6 Nissan Maxima (unsure of location) Is a direct fit. Carbon connectors missing in coilpacks- Those little Carbon rods that are supposed to be fixed to the spring inside the barrel of the coilpack (Removal of rubber insulation boot will reveal it). Walk the yard, inspecting DISTRIBUTOR CAPS. On the inside of the cap, in the centre, is a spring loaded carbon rod, fixed to a spring. That makes connection with the rotor button of the distributor. Simply pull out. Varying makes and models have different lengths. Take an original for comparison. Took me 2hrs to find a full set, but better than sourcing another set of coilpacks if you are missing them on yours $10 all up, and I have all carbons, virtually new looking coilpack connectors and newish CAS connector....... and an oil filler cap.
Been a looong night. Kinda lost track of time. *Coilpack carbons fitted *Coilpack connectors replaced *Injector connectors replaced with quick-release style *IACV IAA connectors replaced with quick-release style *CAS connector replaced *AFM Connector serviced *TPS connector replaced and TPS set to 0.46V (adjusted to 0.462 and dropped down when bolts were tightened) *Water Bypasses done *Vacuum leaks "predominantly" fixed (this included bolting up the forgotten EGR lines underneath the Plenum.) Still using old Upper Plenum Gasket and Balance Tube O-Rings, so not expecting perfect idle or running. Just have to solder in S2 PTU tomorrow and give it another hit. If it runs smoothly on all 6, will install coolant system and pressurise. Most certain motor hasn't been hydrolocked as claimed, though am surprised that it ran with the state of all of the connectors. 2 x Injector connectors were nothing but the terminals and ALL had become that brittle that insulation had crumbled off of the wires themselves. Still havent ruled out blown head gasket as of yet, but its cost me about $50 to get it this far. Sleep time now
done a compression test yet? might be worth doing one since the connectors were not good. may have caused some damage to the engine. but what a bargain.
suspected that, but DET sensor and VCT (think that's what they're called ) sensors were all good. No signs of melting whatsoever. All sensor plugs across the board seem to be badly perished. Well, she idles smoothly... bit of lifter noise, but using cheap oil. Fitted cooling system, crossed fingers and started her up, topping up rad as needed. Yes, the filling required stopped. Thermostat opened, and no nasty bubbles in appeared. Put on rad cap and let system pressurise. IT HELD! Set timing, was 10-degrees out, and let idle over for 15min, checking rad levels and oil levels, the first didnt drop, whilst the second didnt rise. SO FAR SO GOOD! Will drop oil and filter again and fill with something a little more expensive than what Supercheap had on their "specials shelf", fit clutch fan and try again. Definitely going for the compression test next. No point in putting a 100K service kit and polished stuff on a motor thats on its last legs. FINGERS CROSSED :zlove::zlove::zlove:
Still a tapping noise coming from intake cam covers, or at least sounds like source. Lifters? Learning as I go here Remembering that Intake Cams were changed out from S2 to S1, as I didnt have S2 Intake Sprockets. Cam hats (or whatever they are called) were retained, not swapped with replacement cams. Torque settings as per downloaded Z manual. Compression test results, with motor warmed up. Dry test performed. Cyl #1- 180PSI Cyl #2- 170PSI Cyl #3- 180PSI Cyl #4- 165PSI Cyl #5- 165PSI Cyl #6- 100PSI DRY - 120PSI WET Advice?
Not many other options there Mick other than to rebuild. Compression results indicate valve sealing is ok, #6 is too low to be a leaking valve unless it is burnt or bent. Leakdown test will tell you for sure.
Leakdown test done @90PSI:- Cyl #1- Holds Pressure Cyl #2- Leaks out Plenum Cyl #3- Leaks out Plenum Cyl #4- Holds Pressure Cyl #5- Leaks out Exhaust Cyl #6- Leaks out Exhaust Looks like its heads off next for a further look Car WAS running on all 6 cylinders. Cylinder #4 has since dropped out. All tests indicate that injector has failed- ridiculously high reading when performing Ohms test across terminals.
