ok so im back at home now and finally got hold of a laptop to log ecutalk values with. Left it idling while logging for half an hour then drove around for 20 minutes. Didnt cut out at all But manages to fail the 15 minutes to work every time... I dont know what to do from here... Try again on a hotter day?
What an effort...long thread Anyway, you ecutalk thingy shouldn't throw a communication fault if the car just stalls without you turning the key away from start. If it was a sensor fault it should still be up. So what we're looking for her is why the ECU is shutting down. You wired in the turbo timer yourself? I'd look here first. You've intercepted the ignition switch. If for whatever reason the timer is faulty it will shut down the motor. Remove it for a week. One this that is a bit concerning is that you mentioned alot of taped and spliced wires on the ECU loom. This isn't cool, often indicates an inteceptor device like the SAFC, or any number of similar gadgets was once installed. You could very likely have a fault back there on an earth or on the +ve for the ecu. I'd do 2 things, 1, beg an ECU off someone to try it for a week. The unit itself isn't bullet proof. If this doesn't work painstakingly go through the loom at the back there and dbl check every splice and dodgy electrical tape job that's been done. The hack that put my SAFC in back in the day did a terrible job down there and I'm not even game to touch it. I'd rather pay an auto sparky to do it. After reading all the above thread, I don't believe it's in your engine bay, the ecutalk activity being a major clue. Good luck.
thanks for reading. sideways offered to lend me a tt auto ecu. So thats next I GOT AN ECUtalk LOG!! I tried again later this afternoon and managed to lock myself out of the car temporarily - giving me the extra patience to wait till it cut-out. Initially it started sputtering and revs dropped to well below 500. My friend mentioned ecutalk read 3500rpm ??? Then i gave it a rev or two and it died completely after a short while. Ill upload the logfile tomorrow morning. From looking at the many gauges on the screen the only ones that seemed to be wacko were the 02 ones. Rather than pulsing up and down they remained steady at around maybe just under 1.00. Either way, i havent had a chance to look at the log yet as im off to work, but maybe theyll show more information. Another point to note is that after it stalls, if i dont touch anything, electrics play up and --the aux fan turns and stays on. Also while the car wasnt starting I tried what you suggested Brisz, but no find disconnecting the afm didnt let it start again. Nor did the same move with the TPS or CTS. I did splice in the turbo timer myself. But recently went over it all soldering it all up neatly. May have missed something though. The loom near the ecu plug i will check again as im switching out ECUs. glad im getting somewhere again. Been too busy to touch it for a while now.
2nded on temporarily eliminating the turbo timer you've got several things being tried. No baseline - if the problem fixes itself now, you won't know why. These sorts of troubleshooting can be tedious and frustrating but without a known baseline (eliminating one culprit at a time), you will waste a lot more time. I agree with Andy, the problem sounds like its not in the engine bay. Check those ECU wiring plugs. A loose or unseated ECU plug can cause all sorts of erratic problems.
hmmm. So plans from here are: remove boost controller completely. Test for cutting out. Check ecu wiring is all connected properly. Test. Switch out the ecu. Test. And also check the log to see if the CAS or anything else plays up first. Although if the ecu isnt reading too well this might be useless. But ill check anyway.
Replace the ECU. I had big issues with cutting out, misfiring under load, dying under load (ie trying to pull up my drive ), and basically a ded zed. Pulled out my ecu, plugged the original stock one in, 5 minutes later, I'm on my way to work
fixed!! ecutalk log results showed everything going haywire at once. I got a new ecu, plugged that in. It works great now. Guess I bought a dud ECU when i did the engine swap Does anyone know what i could do with it? If i can makd a few dollars back id be stoked. Spent 350 on it Its a stock tt one with one of those eprom socket things and a JWT chip. Nothing obvious is wrong inside it. Is there a way to fix it in any way? Or salvage some parts or anything? Maybe i should switch out the chip to see if its the ecu or chip which is causing it..
Start by checking the EPROM is plugged in correctly. Make sure all of the pins have been plugged into the socket and it is fully seated.
yeah i reckon. Hard thing to diagnose i guess. Set CAS, fix exhaust leak, fix power steering leak. Do not touch car again for a long time. Thats my plan Also just bought another zed. Friend wanted me to fix it up then sell to him for a bit more than i bought it for, but i think hes backed out. And i bought it anyway couldnt resist. Dont know what ill do with it. Maybe bring it up to scratch and sell it. Maybe another project.
i found aa giant magnifying glass around the house today so i thought id have a close look at the ecu see if i could spot anything. Found the problem. Its socketed with a JWT chip in it. Had a real close look at the pins either side of it. Theres one thats not in the hole. Its either bent under the chip or broken off. Its still making physical contact but isnt firmly planted. This explains the lot. cut-out when ambient temperatures are high, needed cool down time, the lot. Contact is made but when the ecu gets hot the damaged pin either expands till its not touching or cant carry data as efficiently. Before i tried to dig out the chip, i thought id ask how to properly and carefully remove it. That way i can either repair the damage, or replace the chip and salvage the ecu.
Gently lever it out with a screw driver. Start at on end and lever it about 1/2 mm, then lever the other and 1/2 mm. Repeat both ends until it comes out. Be carefull not to levet the socket off it's pins. If the pin is just bent, straighten with small pliers and carefully plug back in making sure all the pins go in.
hmm. I carefully removed it like you said. Turns out the pin was squashed in an s-shape so the pin touched and made connection but wasnt properly inserted. I carefully bent it back with some small pliers but the pin snapped off. It was weak from being bent around too much. Is there anything i can do in this situation? Any kind of repair possible? Or do i just lose the chip and start clean with a socketted ecu?
Not much you can do with a chip missing a pin. If you can get some one to burn you a new chip you'll have a good ECU.
