dodgy s1 ptu finally caught up with me. Just want to make sure its the ptu. Last week th car randomly died. While driving engine check light came on. And car spluttered to a stop so i pulled over quickly and it stalled. Code 21. Called nrma to get my free members tow home. He tested fuel, all good. Confirmed its the ptu. Then wriggled connectors, no diff. Tapped the ptu n it staarted up. So i drove home. Happened once more, i gave it a few taps n tried starting. Didnt take long till it was fine. Then drove it for a week no problems thinking im on the list for the s2 ptu buy, ill just tap it when it dies till i get a new one. But today it happened again and took 15 minutes of tapping till it started. Also when it first happened n today have been the hottest 2 days for a long time here. Could be something overheating? Just wondering, could this be a wiring problem or something since its intermittent? Or definately ptu? Either way im on the list on that giant s2 group buy list. But might get one now as well, a spare would be nice..
$10 it wasn't the tapping that got it started but the cooling down time Just get a S2 PTU and rest easy
yeah i suspected. Since the last attempt i fiddled for ages then left it for 5 minutes n it worked first try. just posted up in the wanted section. Guess im walking to work tonight
meh, just by a can of compressed air or some non flammable aerosol, gets to hot, cool it down with that, good to go**. ** not guaranteed to work
Maybe i can relocate it somewhere cooler than its cramped spot? Just while i wait my turn on the s2 list.
damage is done mate...once that contact starts to jump when warm, it's replacement time. It's in one of the cooler spots anyhow, you have a lot of air being pushed over the fins by the fan.
hmmm ok. I wont drive it till i get a new s2 ptu. However, someone mentioned the idea of relocating it to near the afm somewhere? Would this be wise when i get the s2 or should i listen to the nissan engineers and leave it where it is?
Well the S2 PTU is a different design, much less prone to the problems which came with the S1 model. And thus not really worth the effort moving it. The main reason to move it is to extend the life of the S1 ptu...yours however doesn't need that anymore...
The s2 does not have the same mounting points as the s1 so you still have a little bit of altering to do. I relocated mine to under the nose panel by unwrapping the wiring from the ptu back to the main harness near the CAS, then separately rewrapped wiring to temp sensors and ptu. There is a suitable point for wiring to go through near LHS of radiator. Easy to make a lightweight bracket that mounts off the two bolts holding the front bar (under nose panel). Plenty of people have just cable tied the ptu in place. Sorry don't have a pic.
Ah i see. Didnt know it was physically different. Assumed it was just internals. Just out of interest, where does the series2 get mounted from the factory? And when did it start replacing series 1? or is it a replacement that wasnt factory fitted?
ok i hops you guys can get some ideas out to me. I left the car for a week, got a s2 ptu. Fitted it about 3 days ago.. Drove fine for 3 days. Until now. Its a Hot day here in syd. Driving to uni. Around a corner it seemed the accelerator stopped working for a second, and the car stumbled, then it was fine.. Few hundred metres down the road, engine check lightt came on and the car sputtered to a stop. On the middle of anzac parade jesus christ. 2 minutes, and it started fine so i drove it around the corner and am now letting it cool for 15 minutes or so before braving to a safe park spot about 10 minutes away. Does anyone know what can cause this apart from the ptu itself? It was brand new s2 apparently. If it helps, just after it sputtered and stalled a guy came up and said if its a turbo, it was blowing smoke. I reckon thats just a result of rich fuel during the problem though. Any ideas what to check? I have an ecutalk in the car constantly. Temp was fine, 84steady. Wish me luck getting to a park near uni. Then ill leave the car there till i fix the problem..
at the time i was too panicked to check since i was on a busy road. so took the key out. But I think it has a code history. I.e. Code 21, car started 3 times since fault. And i think it stays till you clearr it. But checking it now no errors, 55, so unless someone can confirm that you have to clear the code,i couldnt say. sorry, i only just got the unit. Ill find out.
Ok i will do after class. but if there were problems with that, wouldnt one cylinder drop out rather than the whole car suddenly stall? Never had problems with injectors so not sure.. As for the cas and timing belt, how would i check these? Cas connector for corossion? What effects would a CAS problem have on the car? and timing belt i cant really check.. I know its old and have a new one ready to go on.
When it happens, remove the CAS, 3X 10mm bolts, make sure you have already marked the position of the cas with a white marker. Once removed rotate the CAS, you may have to remove a coil pack and have a spaer spark plug on hand and earth it on the motor while rotating the CAS, should see spark or no spark. Or you could just replace the CAS and see if it happens anywho.
My z i bought cheep as the bloke that owned it thought it had major issues.So did i thats why i got it cheap.Turned out to be the injector connectors all corroded.The symptons where that it would idle and rev fine in neutral.As soon as i went to drive off it would stall and blow heaps of smoke.When it stalled i had to let it sit for a hour before it would start.Weird but after replacing connectors it now runs great.Check all connectors you can find in engine bay for corrossion
hmm ok. What ill do is take it home on maybe friday and check out everything i can related to wiring n stuff. Does anyone know if the CAS between NA and TT the same? Because then i could swap it over from my old NA engine which didnt have the problem, thatd take the CAS out of the situation as well..
