ok i did a bunch of reading up on similar problems from people and what particular things were the cause. Since Ive just fitted a new s2 ptu thats out of the equation. I dont think it would be the CAS because it sounds like that causes idling problems that are persistent and sometimes stops you from starting the car completely, but my scenario is after driving fine for a few days sometimes pushing it sometimes not, it just cuts out completely and stalls when temperatures are hot. So I believe its temperature related. Cooling is good, so im going to guess its a wiring issue. Injectors and coilpacks should be ok, just replaced the injectors with new-style month or so ago, and checked injectors resistances. Also seems like problems with these would be intermittently running on less cylinders as opposed to cutting out completely all of a sudden. - I will check all connectors this afternoon - Ill check that all AFM and PTU pins are in properly - Ill go over my solder job for the new PTU - I did a FPCU bypass with the tt conversion, so ill check that bypass job - Also put in an aftermarket pump, how do I check if the sock is clean? Theyre all the ideas I have atm, I have to get the car home, so going to try driving it home after uni today. My guess is since its not hot today, ill get there fine. This would probably confirm the heat issue.
Umm... M8.. that sound EXACTLY like a CAS related problem. Optical style CAS's are proven to be relatively troublesome and are mounted in a very harsh environment subject to wildly fluctuating heat cycles and brutal vibrations. All of which delicate electronic components DONT like regardless of their specification. CAS issues dont restrict themselves to just bad idle and hard starting (both of which you have when hot). They can cause the engine to intermittently fart and pop, misfring to complete stop. Violent shuddering of the engine down to nothing more than the engine simply stops whilest idling at the lights! Change it with the spare you have and eliminate one very obvious cause. L8r E
i see. Thanks to yourself and swampman for that then. I didnt know anything about the CAS, just did a bit of brief reading on it. Ill switch it over when i get home.
I got home no problems. Was driving real easyy though. I checked all connectors- look good. The AFM one had lost its metal clip and was a tad loose, so i put a new one on. The CAS is probably the most corroded bit of he engine. Looks real nasty for some reason. I found the spare one- looks real clean compared to the one on there atm. Any tips on accurately fitting a new one on? Im thinking paint around the outline of the old so i can orient the new one the same..
Nope, you need a timing light to get it right. Also check the little gear in the end of the cam for excessive wear. Edit: But you can put the new one in approx the middle range of adjustment then get it set when you get around to using a timing light. Just don't flog it too hard before it's right.
ok well i put the new one on by eye. Took it for a test drive. Got it up to operating temp for a while, till it wasnt gonna get any hotter. Seemed fine. Either ambient temp isnt high enough or its fixed. I guess ill drive it around again and either itll happen again on a hot day n ill continue my search, or it wont happen again and we can blame it on the CAS.
weeeelllll. I thought i fixed it... But i didnt. Been driving fine since the new (pretty old) CAS. But on the way home from my uni exams today it died on me again. Just cut out suddenly. No error codes. Luckily i got some help pushing it off the main road. But nevertheless... Its getting to me now. Im gonna have a crash sooner or later if it keeps happening. I dont know what else it could possibly be.
if it only happens on hot days, and simplyy needs a bit of time before the car starts fine again, im going to say that its caused by something getting too hot. Also from this, im going to suggest its a component in the engine bay, as this is where there would be a difference in temperature between a hot and a mild day. Is that a correct assumption? It would narrow it down a bit. Also my ecutalk display doesnt throw an error code for the car, but it dooes throw an error for the display itself. Something like 'failed to connect to ecu. Reinitialising...' I asked Newkleer when this error happened and he said usually when the unit is receiving power but cant connect to the ecu. Now it gets shown when the car stalls, so engine check light and accessories are still on... Thus the idea that the problem could be ecu unit or ecu wiring related? What do you guys think? I did fit an aftermarket ecu with the engine swap that i got from Mikkazx and dont know a lot about other than its JWT chipped. Harness used was my old one and the problem never happened with the NA engine, so ill say at this point i think the harness is fine.
so in short, does anyone know whether a problem like this can be caused by a faulty ecu? A dodgy terminal or connection playing up when it gets hot?
hey, since you've got the ecutalk display can you tell me what your AAC value is when the car is hot, i hope you've checked your battery connectors to make sure they're tight.
Despite all you've checked and changed, I'd suggest re-cleaning/checking CAS, PTU and CTS connectors. Make sure all pins are clean and tight.
Yeah the connectors are tight. My AAC value reads 59 when hot. Give or take a few. Although thats coz its got a big leak. Its meant to read between 15 and about 30 if im correct.
Take the ecu out of its position and strip back the bacl plastic cover over the wiring. About 15-20cm from the ecu plug there is a junction where several earth wires are soldered to one another, check those joints. Also check the engine control fuse and egi relay in the engine bay. It sounds like the car is loosing the ecu input voltage and is switching the ecu itself off. The keyswitch is on a differnet circuit to the ecu so with ecutalk showing lost communication says the key still has power "on", but the ecu is no longer communicating. May be worth opening up the ecu aswell and checking the solder joints on the pcb's.
Ok i checked the ptu and cts connectors. All pins tight and clean. Ill have a look at the CTS next time im having a fiddle. With the CTS connectors, theres two there, a big one that clips on, and a small one that just slides onto the tab. The small one looks a bit dodgy. the tab in the hardpipe is attached dodgy and wobbles around. Nothing happens when i unplug it... Whats that plug for?
Spade connector is for the temp gauge in your dash cluster, the big clip on one is the one that sends the temperature to the ECU.
ok i did all this. There was a heap of wires with lots of electrical tape around connections. I wound the tape off each one and checked contacts. Theyre all firmly crimped together with a ring sort of thing. Were the earths the 3 thick wires (black or white) crimping into one thin wire? They were all fine except one thing i was confused about. A section of wire which had grey plastic shielding on it. I took the shielding back and theres a black wire without insulation wrapped around two other wires. Kind of like a dodgy coaxial? I take it the shielding was there for that reason though so put it back. I took out the ecu, checked all solder joints and looked for anything out of the ordinary.. Im not familiar with circuitry but it all looked ok. Finally the engine control and egi fuses. The engine control was fine. As for the egi, im not familiar with these bigger fuses, how do i check them? Unscrew the bottom of it and itll be obvious?
So next things to check are: -Egi relay fuse -CAS connector pins -possibly strip the cas wiring back through the engine bay making sure its ok?
Aha all good then. Stock temp gauge can go die anyway Does anyone think a dodgy fpcu bypass could cause the problem? Thats something else ive done recently. Actually thinking twice the first time it happened nrma came out and said crank but no start is either fuel or ignition related. So they put a little petrol in a vacc hose off the FPR and asked me to crank it. No start so they decided it was ignition related. Then he tapped the ptu and it started. So he blamed the ptu (could have been the cool down time of something else). Another bit of info i just remembered- it happened four times before i got hold of a s2 ptu. Randomly once, then 10 minutes later. And about 2 weeks later, once, then 10 minutes down the road again. After that, i went around the block. Car ran rough, and when i planted it, it cut out at like 4000rpm wouldnt go further. Felt like i slammed the brakes on. So i left it at home, got a s2, and it seemed to be fixed. My idea is maybe its ptu related after all? Since when it did the cutting out thing, switching ptu seemed to fix it? Or perhaps it was unrelated to this problem and my 20year old s1 ptu just decided to give.
been overseas for a while. Now im back to sortinging this out. One bit of wiring i havent checked and tampered with not long before the problem started, was hooking up a turbo timer. Now today my alarm keeps randomly going off. Does anyone think a dodgy wire near the ignition barrel could cause a cutout like this? Ie the ignition wire or something? Hence it could slowly be getting worse and now messing with my imobbiliser or alarm?
