I had a similar problem not long ago. The symptoms were: Occasionly lose a cylinder (cylinder 1). I had spark and I had fuel. I replaced the injector anyway. No help. I eventually found that the lower injector o-ring wasnt sealing properly and was over fueling the cylinder - therefore fouling the plug. I must say it was very hard to diagnose coz its wasnt a big leak that filled a cylinder overnight or anything - but it was just enough to cause a too-rich situation in that cylinder. This could be your problem too. Pull the plug out and see if its fouled. Also shine a light down into the spark plug hole and see if the piston looks kinda wet. If so AND you are definetly getting spark - then you might have the same problem as I had. I managed to remove my injector without doing plenum pull (the dremel way) but it is very difficult (only becuase after 19 odd years the injector gets kinda stuck). By doing it this way I had to break the original injector (i had a spare anyway). However this dremel method proved very handy as I had to remove and refit the new injector a dozen or so times as the new o-rings wouldnt seat properly (and it is very easy to remove an injector once its been pulled out before). Maybe you have the same problem as me?
Sounds like it I put new o-rings in with vasoline to try and not pinch them. I really don't want to pull my plenum again. If i have to pull the injector, hopefully I can do it with the demel method. If not, I'm passing the buck and letting someone else do the work.
Def give the dremel method ago 30 bux from supercrap hehe here's hoping that the injector is not seating properly :thumbup: uve exhasted a fair few other avenues. Rgrds Trev
Well I got that injector out with the dremel method The lower o-ring was a little pinched so I replaced it. Once I got it back in the fuel rail pressurised and stayed pressurised (which was a good sign, as before it would get the right pressure running but would go to 0 when the car was off). I got the missing cylinder back, and it was a bit smokey which was alright as the exhaust was probably full of crap from last time I ran it. I took it for a test spin then the car started misfiring, then the cylinder kept dropping on and off. Also for some stupid reason my stock water temp gauge has stopped working and its now making a zapping noise and bounces around so I'll have to pull that bastard too.... I might have a quick look again tomorrow and see if its the same cylinder playing up. But I want to get my Gokart trailer finished 1st but yea I'm really REALLY getting sick of this. Tempted to burn the car at the moment.
Prolly now fouled plug(s) from all the other work going on. Bones' zed had partially fouled plugs which cleaned up well after a few revs...
Ummm silly question when you said 555 injectors was it already running on those or were they upgraded as part of the plenum pull ?
Upgraded and I have a chipped ECU to suit. I got back under the bonnet today after finishing my trailer and found cylinder 3 was firing, it was cylinder 1 that had stopped this time. So I pulled the injector and yep another pinched o-ring. It's annoying as I pushed them in by hand and used vaso to try and not pinch them. Anyway with the injector back in I found 1 last leak from a loose clamp and that was it. Car ran on all 6 and ran fine during the test run and still pulls hard. Must have had a bit of an air leak somewhere as my BOV's now sound like they're opening harder (I mean harder as in, when I shift @ around 4.5k I hear the bov's flutter. They didn't do that before). BUT after cleaning connectors, swapping sensors, replacing all clamps on my intake piping, replacing the ECU, replacing the injectors, cleaning the throttle bodies, replacing the cold idle, installing a brand new idle control valve, replacing my S1 PTU a while back with a S2 PTU and doing a plenum pull to check everything out under there including pcv valves (and fix an oil leak on the tappet cover), my idle is still not functioning correctly! I'm out of ideas And it's only worse when the car is warm, which is probably because the fast idle is off.
Just a mention although HEAP's of people seem to do it, years ago my pool guy said not to use it on rubber o-rings, particularly the large filter ones as it caused them to expand and get larger in diameter and not work properley, he then gave me a small jar of maxi- lube silicon grease (I always get nervous when the pool guy gives me lube) and on that note isnt vasolene also bad for other rubber items Searched the net and found nothing about it, anyone know ?
Chris, the screw was all the way in when I 1st got her started and I could hear the unit clicking in and out. But I screwed it out a bit and it stopped it. I think I need some help in setting up the idle properly. I might not be doing something right.
Have you checked the ECU control of the AAC valve. I know you have a new ECU and idle control unit but it could just be the wiring. To test this, have you tried performing an active test on the AAC valve in datascan? Whilst idling, adjust the value to close to 100 and you should hear the engine revs rise and the AAC start 'buzzing'. If not, this will likely be your last prob to fix... The FIDC and AAC wiring plugs could just be swapped over or there may be a wiring break between the ECU < > AAC valve? I'm happy to cast a 'fresh set of objective eyes' over it for you if required. Sometimes it could be just a simple thing you've previously ruled out or not checked (as per the Bonez Air Reg and AAC clean-up jobs yesterday)
If I could get you to have a look at it Mark that would be great. I'll drop you a PM to organise something. I won't be able to check those things till next weekend anyway.
