I've ordered all the mandrel bends and collectors I need to make my extractors. Should pick them up tomorrow Cut off my standard exhaust flanges today. Die ground the thick welds of the inside where the pipes go into them. The flanges are cast iron so I had to leave some of the steel pipe sticking out other wise I would never get a good weld happening. Bit of a differance is possible
I've been busy Got a big pile of mandrel bends, a couple of collectors and some tube. Chucked the old header flange on the motor and had a look, got some 90's, trimmed the long bit off, squished the end in the vice and tacked them on. Kept having a fiddle and chucking bits on and lining it up under the Z. Here's the story in pictures All tacked up. All welded except the collector, which was good, as I had to chop 120mm off it, it was a bit long and would effect ground clearance Lots better than stock They aren't equal length, well runners 2 and 3 are close, but 1 and 4 are miles off Meh, too hard and not much room down there. Least I can remove these with the engine in place, just have to drop the crossmember to angle them the right way. All in all about 10 hours work I think, not bad for a first attempt :thumbup:
Nice going , Is that the easy or hard side? You just need a couple of all nighters and this will be getting registered next week !
Yeah, that's the easy side Oh well... Starting on the hard side today. I'm going to need a whole lot more bends I had four of each of the following: 90deg, 180deg and 45deg. Got two 180's and 45's left There is slightly more width on the drivers side as there is no oil pump housing and the motor is slightly offset due to the room needed for the accessories (not that bad, everyone does that with the Z32 or S13/14 swap.) My biggest problem at the moment is having parts at hand. I'm not thinking ahead far enough, and I'm often short ordering. Once I have this other extractor done I think I will start on the cooling system as well as getting the sump drawn up in CAD to get it made proffessionally. At this stage the biggest hurdle I've got coming up is the bonnet. Anyone know any classic car restorers who work with ally a bit? And another Q. Welding wire for 316SS OK for use with 304SS? I think it is, but can't remember for sure.
How are you going to snake 4 pipes aroung the steering shaft. I looked at doing that but my starter is in the way, is yours close to the normal z position?
Yeah, but not if they are stainless, haven't got the wire yet Carefully There is enough room, looks like it will go OK. Probably 2 each side, have to have a proper look tomorrow, too busy cleaning the shed up today. Starter is on the standard Z32 gearbox, so that adds a bit of room. If I was using the standard VH45 starter I would be in trouble as it is on the engine side rather than the gearbox side.
Love your work Chris!!! Cant wait to see this thing fly. Mite have to book a flight with you to NZ n back, Snow boarding is good this time of year i hear.
Had a few people ask me about clearance beside the block at the rear with the view of twin turbo's. I took some piccies, in the dark, lying on my back under the car. Not the clearest but should give some indication. I reckon T28's would fit with some creative pipework, there is a lot more room than I expected now that I'm having a good look. For comparison my truck turbo fits with touching the gearbox and chassis on the passenger side, so there is heaps of room there. Enough room for an external gate between the head and the firewall too. If anyone wants to lend me some 28's to do a quick test fit then shoot them to me . Radiator clears. Just. You can see why the 16" thermo won't fit... And from the front. Mounting the oil cooler on it's side and to the right, bracket off the headlight housing thing. Oil filter on the right, should be plenty of access through the front bar. UAS bar in, and clears everything, swaybar isn't in the correct postion at the moment, was just a quick test fit to make sure it cleared everything. I promise I'll do the drivers side extractor tomorrow, got side tracked with moving the rad support brackets from NA to TT positions and talking to the guy at the local Speed Shop
Looks like you've tacked some of the runners together. It's not a good idea to do that as it will cause cracking.
Hmm, OK. They are all fully welded at the collector, not sure if it would really have an effect at all... Easy enough to cut off though. I had them tacked before I welded the centre together so it would stay square.
OK, as per our discussion the other night Crispy, I will be coming up to use your shed when the time is right
Sure thing Andy, just have to wait till I get this paint in the arse out of there. So when you moving up to God's country? Way better than Sydney Haha, trust you... Leigh put it there at Cowra when I was fixing it from the overheating episode on the trip down. Not too bad, fits better than a RB26.
