HyperGear ATR25 Build up and Evaluation thread

It sounds like a lot but it really isnt that bad (for a reasonably large 300zx turbo). It is well and trully drivable in everyday traffic. Boost holds a lot better through gears than the factory turbos. For example going from 1st to second gear the factory turbos used to die a bit whereis these ones get a bit of wheelspin. I guess I havnt driven a zed with different aftermarket (fast spooling) turbos so cant really compare to anything other than factory.

Cheers
Jason

 

I'd like to know if Hypergear is able to have the 320hp ATR25 turbo correctly adjusted to suit our VG30 prior to shipping them. After reading Jason review post, can Hypergear take this information and clock and set the turbos properly, so if i bought one of these i won't have to go through this?

 

the 2 that i have driven have significantly less response than stock but then thats the tradeoff for more top end power.

 

So in a short answer. Do the oil restrictors need to be removed or not?

 

ive never seen the sense in top end power for a street car,response is whats needed,high flow turbo seems to be a better option than these

 

I agree......you either get more power......or more response. In my opinion these turbos are a reasonable tradeoff between the two.

Anyone up here in Cairns is welcome to come for a strap if they want to see how they go before deciding whether or not to buy some.

Cheers
Jason

 

Thats basically what these turbos are...? high flow stock turbos. T25 housings (same as stock) with T28 internals.

The hypergear turbos i have (the 300hp versions) would be the exact same spec as if i had sent my stock turbos off for them to be 'high flowed'.

Although I agree with you, Response is what you want in a street car, But as jason has stated its still a very driveable car with these turbos.

I suppose if we had of spend 2x or more the money and got some GT28r ball bearing turbos we could have the best of both worlds, but it all comes down to how much you have/are willing to justify spending, and thats different for everyone. Never hurts to have another option

 

Well to make power then you must change the turbine shaft then increase compressor size accordingly. Once weight added it becomes laggier. We are a Garrett turbocharger retailer as well so we can sale you a Garrett CHRA and profile your stock housings to suit. Just not many people can afford to do that .

The GT2860RS is in identical spec as ATR25 320HP CHRA except with roller cartridge. So you do get around 300RPM of better response but that would be it.

In a turbo powered engine you have to trade off response for top end. specially when working with a 1.5L 3cyc engine.

 

Well got some bad news. Which is corrosion. I've noticed most of plugs on the loom are very badly corroded. Things turned out worst then I thought. the rust grease have completely blocked the water fitting lines to both turbos and there are heaps more in side the radiator and engine block. I'm very concert if the rust grease have filled up water ports in side the engine in the same way as the water lines.

Has any one experienced this issue before and are there any chemicals that is useful to get rid of it? I prefer to not pull it apart at this stage.

Turbos and clutch are fitted:






Rust:

 

I think I would be replacing or at the very least removing and cleaning those turbo cooling lines.

The other corrosion in the engine isnt too bad as long as after you reassemble it, you do a coolant change every 1000k's or so till the coolant cleans up.

I usually clean up as much rust as I can by hand before i reassemble it.

Seriously look at the heater pipes/turbo feed pipes at the rear as well as the stub pipes at the front which bolt onto the heads.

 

Yea have a decent look @ all the coolant fittings. One of my stock turbos had no coolant flow as the bolt going into the banjo fitting was totally blocked with crap!

 

Both feeding lines are blocked. I tried to poke a steel wire through it stopped half way. The turbo came off it had full with grease looks like Mud stuck in the water ports. I'm hopping to get some sort of liquid solutions to clear the grease and not pull the engine apart as this project's taken too long.

 

a zx project?? Long??? lol...

 

I usually stick the end of the gerni down one end and swirl it around a little. This way you can see the water coming out the end when it is unblocked. Some of the chemicals might work well now but cause worse down the track. Be sure to refill with antifreeze/antiboil/corrosion inhibiter all the time.

Thats my 2 cents.

Cheers

 

well your comparing a 20 year old turbo to a new one , of course its going to hold , better ,,
but is the turbo worth getting , that's the real question here i think ??

 

Not sure if it's actually "identical" but i believe wheel sizes are very similar from what specs i've read on both units.

 

Im interested to see the results.. but im not expecting high figures.. because it seems like the 300Z you got is a crap example.. I reckon you'd be better off doing the project on a well-known members car instead, but i guess its too late for that now.

 

lol,this sort of reminds me of road testing a formula 1 part on a hyundai getz

 

LOL, did the getz blow up?!!