didn't think it did lol. Ecutalk also comes with free Conzult, Scan Tech & Calumsult. Can any of these do this?
Well... I dont really have an answer for the crank sprocket issue. In regards to base timing, yes, you could try retarding the timing. But this will affect the entire timing map, so power will be down. Try setting the timing at 10 degree's, and see if the pinging goes away. But keep in mind, reducing the base timing may not be enough. If you are pinging in a timing cell that reads 45 degree's, if you reduce the base timing by 5 degree's (15 down to 10), that problem cell will essentially be 40 degree's. In my old car, that wasnt enough of a timing reduction. I had to reduce the problem area's by about 10 degree's. And I dont suggest setting the base timing 10 degree's less than what it should be. As a short term fix, try the base timing at 10 degree's. If the problem goes away, sweet. At least you'll know that you can go get a custom tune done and knock out 5 degree's timing in the problem area's, without affecting the entire map. Keep in mind, if you have Datascan or Conzult, you can temporarily lower the ignition timing while driving around and see if it helps. That way, you dont have to stuff around with adjusting the CAS all the time. I'm happy to help, as I have Datascan, ECUtalk etc etc.
Sorry to be off topic a little here. Which version of Conzult do you use, free or paid? Which is better, Conzult or Datascan? Thanks.
Conzult or Datascan I personally use Datascan. But when I first joined the forum back in 2001 and we used to have Tech days etc etc, the only thing we had at the time was Conzult (full paid for version) (usually on member WYKKEDs laptop). Datascan is powerful and will do nearly everything that ConZult does, its just that the displays are different. Datascan displays everything in gauges, whereas Conzult displays in sliding bars. Up until recently, Conzult also allowed you to do diagnostics on the Auto trans computer and climate control. Datascan did not. But I think now, in the latest version of Datascan, some of these features have been added. Either way, both will do the job quite nicely. ECUTalk is also good, and I have that always running in my Zed on my hand held HP ipaq. But I use it more to just looks at values and see what the sensors are seeing as I'm driving around. For diagnostics and trouble shooting, I switch back to Datascan as it can do more.
BTconsult has found its way home. My Auspec NoTurbo auto after a short drive and sitting parked for 15mins, when I started again the NikoZ app says coolant temp is 60 degrees and the timing was 15 degrees while in park. When I put the car in Drive the timing is instantly 20 degrees. Drove around a bit, coolant temp went to 79 degrees. Idles at 20 degrees, put into Park and it switches to 15 degrees. Does that help Cam?
Yeah thanks again Mark! After all the things I can do on the Z on my own, I think all this timing map cells and modifying is out if my league! We will see how it goes over a bit more driving (I only did that one test) and see how it behaves... I may have been too harsh on the old girl. If there is still issues we will have to set up a time and day where you can help me! Thanks again
Ok so an update. Finally had a chance to drive it some k's today. Timing was set to 15deg with the ATCU fitted then the SAW kit fitted back in. Still got ping under all types of load/RPM's and it seemed to be around the 30deg timing mark it pinged at. So I got home and figured ill dial it back some. Flashed the pulley at 20degs again! I'm like what tha! then I realised the saw kit is now back in. So I plugged the ATCU back in to see if it went back to 15deg. It did, spot on! Still confused at that point as I didn't know the CAS could physically change the timing like that?? I theorised at that point that perhaps the timing should be set with the saw kit fitted at the 15degs regardless the fact the saw kit sets the ECU at 20deg in park. So now technically set to 10degs if the ATCU was fitted. No ping and she runs great! Not too sure if its because its technically 5degs retarded and i have actually lost some power I can't notice or it is actually set correctly with the SAW kit. So to test this out... Ill fit the ATCU back in and flash it to 15degs. Ill then drive it tommorow and if there isn't any ping, then I know that with the saw fitted I should flash it at 15degs even if its technically 10degs if the ATCU was in. Bloody hell! I'm so lost
Haha seems like my job around here Baz! So....I couldn't help myself. SAW out and ATCU in. Flashed the timing to 15degs and set off. Gave it a good drive up hills and down, around corners and hard accelerations... No ping! Which tells me when the SAW kit is in it needs to be timed to 15degs which is technically 10degs if the ATCU was plugged in! Gosh! :rofl: So I've finally sorted it! Quite chuffed as it was a major teething problem after my 120k mile service So she's running slick and smooth now. Time to just enjoy it Thanks guys for all the help here. It was a long confusing thread but we got there. P.s I'll still look into the fuel system anyway as I haven't given it any attention apart from the filter and injector service kits.
Sorry to start this up again when you thought it was finished, but did you happen to check max timing values from ECUtalk with SAW/OEM ATCUs? Maybe the SAW kit adds 5deg across the board not just at idle. Also, possibly the result of the ECU learning to deal with wonky pulley and then being wrong for correct timing? http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236153 Although I guess the battery would have been unplugged for a while when you did the service so it should have been reset...
Well after a proper drive (2 hrs on hwy) I had to pull the bypass again as I had ping So looks like my theory was incorrect about the SAW kit as I was running the ATCU at 15deg base timing. So the fact when I thought the timing when using the SAW should be 5degs retarded is wrong. It wasnt pining because I simply retarded the timing 5 degs I've retarded the timing what would be only 2.5degs and it will ping only in the higher end of each gear with some load. But only slightly and is easily avoided via backing off the throttle. It won't ping even once it reaches temp (79-82c), it would take a good drive for it to start to happen, and it almost gets worse and worse as the drive goes on. Does this give you guys a tip on the cause? Is that dying fuel pressure? Not sure if its related, but when I fill the tank up, the fuel pump makes a humming noise for a minute or so then stops, is that normal? Whilst the tank is in the full range for the proceeding starts, it will hum for a bit getting less and less each time as the tank empties. Don't think it does it past the first quarter though. In regards to the above post, I didn't have the battery disconnected during or after the massive change to the timing (crank sprocket wise). Is it possible the ECU has learnt to cope with the way the old crank sprocket was? It was slowly retarding as it made that notch in the keyway. So someone before me advanced the CAS to compensate judging by the position... That's why it pinged like a bitch after I fixed it all. Completely over this bull! Why should I be getting ping when I've put so much time, money and effort into this Z! It's destroy my love for it actually.... It's just turning into a chore! And Mark has made me feel like it doesn't matter if I spend more money, it will just continue to ping
So next checks are fuel supply/temp, there's a couple of pages on Z32 wiki that might be useful. A noisy pump usually suggests it wearing out but a healthy one still has some noise when at full load (check fpcu page for a table of pump voltages) http://z32.wikispaces.com/fuel+pump http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Pump+Control+Unit Other problem areas are your fuel damper and reg, check their vacuum lines are attached and not blocked or cracked. Rather than buying parts to throw at it you're probably better off following teky's advice and buying a gauge, most sure-fire way to see if your pressure is dropping/failing to rise. To throw another can of worms in the mix it could also be an oil delivery/temperature problem, your pistons are oil cooled so if after a long drive your oil is getting hotter and loses viscosity it may not be doing its job there any more. As Jedi said a tune would be able to take the ping out but that probably isn't an expense you want, anybody have an ECU you could borrow?
There might be one around somewhere. But In that thread you posted, someone mentioned that the majority of pining issues stem from the JSpec ECU's....Mine is a AusSpec. But yeah, would be interesting to see if a different ECU changes the game. Please dont through Oil into the mix [TIS] Lol I'm really at the point though that I cant be stuffed working on problem solving or fault finding....Id actually prefer just buying-buying till its gone! least it'll be full of new parts which is where I want to be at in the future anyway in the quest of restoring the Z. So tomorrow jobs will be checking the EGR (although new) is operating correctly. Mainly by checking the solenoid that operates it....All the vac lines are in the correct places and are all new. The Service Manual actual mentions mostly to check the EGR if pining is present. That, and also by pinching off the PCV hoses and noting if the revs rise or become "more stable" (confusing but I guess they think the revs would be unstable?). If any of the two exist, they say there is an Air leak somewhere leaning out the fuel/air ratios. How does one check the FPR and the Fuel dampener without a gauge? If I was to buy a Wideband Sensor...Do I buy two? One on each side? going to one Gauge? This will be temporary to study whats going on....I dont want a fully sick gauge hanging off my A pillar :br:
Dont get me started about the EGR! A correctly running EGR lowers combustion temps by releasing inert burnt gases through the cycle again. High combustion temps is a usual culprit amongst the other 50 items that could cause ping it seems. So at this point Im glad its in and I can rule it out once I verify the Solenoid that operates it is working...No error code from it though. Now no more on that. I can't drive it off the cliff after all I been through and time/money I've spent. Just need to get through this last major step (hopefully without causing damage through pining when I keep test driving to see if its gone) the powertrain will be all sorted. Then I can move onto exterior and other more enjoyable jobs.
Man if you were in Sydney I'd say bring it round on the weekend and we'll figure it out. U need someone who is both experienced with zeds and knows what they're doing / how to troubleshoot shit, to come give you a hand. It shouldn't be this hard. Must be someone in vic can help a zed brother out?
