I've got the stocky back on Ryan. Yeah I really don't know... I agree that if the oil is hot enough to cause overheating then ill have other issues... But maybe the only noticeable problem I am having from too hotter oil is ping.... Not saying its sky rocketing temps... Just that it's enough to cause ping. If the fuel isn't good enough to withstand the heat, then it would take much for it to detonate when I don't want it to. I just have doubts on Air/fuel or any mechanical parts being at fault because others before me haven't found the cause and have learnt to deal with it by either modding the maps or dialing the timing back. I haven't heard anyone look into the heat an NA produces. I've basically got plans at the moment to get a whole heap of gauges to see what's going on in there. Then ill move forward with action.
Do what you were doing first, run a tank of V-Power and see if it still pings. Then try a tank of United Premium 100 and see if it still pings. I'd put money on it not pinging with this fuel. But from other's experience retuning, and yours dialling it back to 10degrees, it sounds like the factory timing maps are just too advanced in certain areas for most Aussie fuels. So the options are; Run United Premium 100. Run PULP with an Octane Booster. Get your ECU chipped and retuned with less timing in the affected areas.
Yep that's next step. I think it will ping on V-Power but I'm hoping not! How much would a tune up cost me to weed out those problem areas? What confuses me is its an AusSpec so the mapping really should already be set for our climate and fuel. I actually have suspicions that our so called 98 which cost me 1.77! is really just 95 or less! How would one know otherwise?? We are getting jibbed as usual in Australia
So what would that mean? I should run 95? Assume this a thought....maybe the 98 is over heating the CATs? creating too much heat?? Although running a higher Octane reduces the risk of ping as its more resilient to self-combustion.Perhaps the heat created by the 98 octane creates so much heat in the CATs that the heat goes beyond the 98's resilience? Just a thought but I might be very wrong?
Yes I read it buddy. I along with most others have been trying to interpret what your on about most of the time. like you get MORE detonation with LESS ignition.... errrmmmm... moving on. Now, I also have an NA (J-spec) 'cept mines a manual. And yes it pings on stock settings often even with good fuel. It takes some TIME to begin rasttling mas well (sound familiar?) I KNOW why it rattles and I know what strategies are available to deal with it. So I just pulled timing out, live with the loss of a few killerwasps and DRIVE ON! Rather than just grasping at red herrings getting all funky dicking about oil temps when oil temps will have little, if anything to do with it. Youll be lucky to see higher than 90 degrees oil temp...how do I know??? I fitted a guage just to find out. Dont fall into that stupid newbie trap of overcooling the oil in some misguided attempt to mask a fundamental flaw in the entire setup. Dragging a few degrees out of the oil temp in an attempt to solve a combustion issue is time consuming, expensive and importantly, futile. Quite simply, the CR is too high and the tune is too aggressive for the fuel quality used. You have proved that already as I already have some years ago. Your running a high compression motor. Possibly had the heads off at some time and almost without doubt been planed, raising the CR even higher still with most likely an agressive J-spec tune. You cant get away from this fact. The tune is too aggressive. The combustion chamber shape is not good enough to control the flame front propagation. Its pretty simple really. The vast majority of people are just so obsessed with high compression being the magic bullet in powah. This is so NOT the case and is but ONE way of extracting some limited power. It has been proven here by some very smart people that lowering the compression makes little, if ANY discernible difference to an NA. It does allow you to run plain old pump unleaded tho which is a bonus! Try and see the wood for the trees m8. Your strategies are simple and quite few in number in easiest to hardest/most expensive order. Pull timing out now, less power at different load/rpm points due to not optimised advance curve but easiest and cheapest. You can try an Aus. spec AutoECU. Less power ov erall but better optimised to lower spec fuel. Minimise the losses. Just keep dosing your expensive fuel with expensive jungle juice. Pull the heads and fit some head shims (if available at all) to drop the CR back towards stock. Pull the engine and fit a set of low CR turbo pistons. Change the entire fuel system over to E85 and run whatever compression and ignition you like within reason. E
My aus-spec pings under certain conditions (ie light throttle - low revs - warm day) and has done for all of the 15 years I've had it. Realistically as others have said you can either live with it, retard the ignition via CAS, or you can get a new tune.
Possibility that his ECU is not an Aus Spec. needs to be confirmed. I read a writeup on the NA's when they were new and they ran happily on 91 ulp. E
I didn't say less ignition created detonation. There was confusion to start with as I had the SAW kit in which doesn't utilise the P/N switch. That's long ago deep in this long thread My Z is an AusSpec... So it has an AusSpec ECU. The engine also has never been rebuilt. I have all the paperwork with the car from day dot. I'm the third owner and the owner before me certainly said nothing of that natutre. He also knew the first owner very well... And let's face it why would the first owner of a new car feel the need to rebus the engine after 70k km's? Compression test came back with 170 across the board. I'm definitely taking your experience on board so don't think that I'm not. I'm just trying to work out the best way to get out of this whilst retaining stock tune. Why should I have to put up with less tune from factory? Something's a miss and by just retarding the timing and forgetting about it seems stupid after all the work I've been putting into restoring its showroom feel.
I haven't pressure tested it yet. I haven't had the opportunity to buy one. I actually stopped worrying about it to be honest when Mark and James both said the they replaced all that stuff with no success. I thought if scrap that and try something they haven't like heat. Ways to reduce cylinder temps. Considered maybe one or more of the squirters are blocked and not doing their job? Why is it the NAs suffer from this more often? I think the higher comp producing more heat under comp.
There's some good info in old threads when Mark (Jedi) was chasing somewhat similar pinging. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235215&highlight=map (Tekky if you still have the old images of the differences post em up) http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234889&highlight=map I'm sure there are lots of other pinging related threads from around that time. It was quite a hot topic back in the day...
something similar to cam and my engines is they have a lot of mileage (over 200k). I was thinking maybe dirty cylinders with lots of carbon deposits would be a prime cause. I was thinking maybe changing to copper plugs with the cooler heat range would also be something beneficial to try. one thing I have noticed though, is my engine bay is extremely hot after probably a 10 minute drive, especially compared to skylines and other cars of its era (although the cooling system is working fine and doing its job). I can really feel the heat at the lights on a warm day coming off it. I think my cats may be under performing and clogged. Cam, did you ever change your exhaust system?
Nope only from cats back which was back to stock :zlove: I've seen the cats and appeared to be clean and free but who knows lol... I know there is a product out there that cleans the cats... Mind you my exhaust does need and fresh overhaul so I might get them to check them whilst their at it. Now I more news!!! I checked the ECU and found the following; Apon closer inspection found this; I knew straight away it was a bit suss. Obviously it's been opened before and violated there was more slightly stripped screws but who was this guy??? A gorilla? Opened the ECU up and found this!!! I've got a fully sick poooowwwer chip! I tryed to take a shot from the side too, is this what you guys call a socketed ECU? Soooo I know what my next move will be! Need to find an AusSpec ECU. Do you guys know what numbers I need to chase? P.s I'm gunning for thread if the year
Tekky should still have the .bin copy of my aus-spec ecu. He used to have the chip burning capacity too. unless he's been a big girl and thrown it all away...
