BLACK BEAST BUILD Slicktop R-Spec

That top one would be close to not sealing, you can't see the mark becasue of the glare.

That mis alignment is easily and quickly knocked off during a port match and is nothing compared to the huge ledge they left on the short turns of the intake ports again due to core shift when casting.

 

Little update

have stripped the engine bay ,removed some brackets





patched a few holes and some nice shiny fresh paint







Fitted SPL fender braces.
You can see how these will make a considerable amount of difference when installing them on a stripped chassis and why it does a better job than a strut brace.
Its obvious its a weak link where the cabin joins to the side rail structure




Front end should be nice and tight now tying in
top - Carbing strut brace
sides -SPL fenderbrace
bottom -UAS radius rod brace


.

 

they look great, when is the motor going back in?

 

when I build it

still accumulating parts

 

do the fender braces fit without any mods

 

yep straight on ..well made

 

I've still got my SPL braces sitting on the shelf... Don't know if I can be bothered pulling the guards off to fit them. Maybe when I change side skirts.

 

This all seems relevant to the current upper link discussion here http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309678 There is something with the Z32 front suspension design that is not right once the car is lowered. I suspect that the upright is tilted for anti dive purposes and this tilt increases upon lowering exaggerating anti dive still more, which increases suspension component stress because anti dive is induced by suspension angles and so is inherantly stress inducing. This may not be it, could be talking out my bum, but there is something and I suspect it is connected with anti dive which incidentially no real performance car should have.

 

little update

Finally got a chance to do a few things today ..

test fitted my front FMIC ..
Only Z FMIC that bolts straight on ..with no reo mods or any cutting
2.5 " piping clears the radiator.. still needs final adjustment with piping and silicone hoses once it bolts to throttle bodies etc.

Fits perfect on the UAS front bar mouth ... very happy with it.

 

also fitted rare SPL Wide vented front guards ..
about 25mm wider ..forgot to measure them

no longer available ..production stopped over 5 years ago ..lucky to find a second hand set in the USA..

well made and and a excellent fit. .
had no bolts out the front so fibre glassed them in so it bolts up to front bar like stock guards do.

next I have to start on the rear quarters and make them about 30- 35mm wider in metal to complete my subtle wide body








engine build starting very soon

 

The anti dive is actually implemented by the inclination of the king pin bearing.

Have a look at it on the bottom of the wish bone. It really is at a great angle. Almost impossible to fix as well without making a new wish bone.

 

cars looking great man. love the cooler fitment both banks will get equal cooling

you should make copies of the front and rear wides you are going with/making :zlove:

 

Lots of work

Looks good Rob, certainly going the extra mile.

As for the anti dive, indirectly you have this Rob as the radius rod utilises the factory pivot point, the same as my car, whilst the lower and upper control arms inner pivot points have been raised. This geometry change also raises the roll centre, which is better for a lowered car.

 

WideBody

Have been looking for years at getting a decent widebody that isnt too big and has factory curves /lines...that fits 11's /305 comfortably (and up to 12's if needed) without rubbing

No one makes decent ones and they are all fibreglass .
So I decided to make my own in metal
it works out around 45 -50mm

.................................................
I decided that the best shape was staring straight in the face ! so I took my old front guards and cut them/modified them


I then marked my quarter panels and cut them out
allowed for the petrol cap area


spent a whole day just reshaping the inner guards for full clearance and to blend in to the new quarter shape


test fitting new quarters with inner guard

with slotcar 10.5/295's


tacked on ready for welding..heated the petrol cap and bent it into shape


innerguard view..tacked on ...you would never pick this as a modification when finished


very labour intensive job when done properly .
The front guards are now my new quarter panels meaning I have full access in getting behind them in case of accident repairs

 

Interesting & not half bad, Rob. I look forward to seeing the final, painted product.

 

Looking good Rob, Ihate they wide kits that are avalibal but what your doing is awesome.

 

all welded up .

Cut a slit in 2 areas of the Twin Z Bar, gently cracked it into new location and refibreglassed it

skim of bog over the welds ,rubbed back ,some hi-fill,primer ,more rubbing.

this is the results so far with minimal bog .







the other good thing is ,the way I designed it has kept the bottom seal panel stock so I can bolt up any skirts I like .
Also because of the angle of the guards once the fat wheels are on you will see plenty of rubber exposed at the bottom near the seal panel


removed aerial and the useless reflectors on the rear bar for a nice slick look once its all black



in person the wide body looks so much more in proportion with 25mm front and 50mm rears with both having the similar front guard shape.


this is how it will stay for now as I'm not painting it til the engine is in .
Will give me time to look it over ,let the sink backs set in and see whether to add a little more shape to it .

so far ....overall I'm pretty happy with it..not bad for a backyard job

 

That looks great! Props for the originality of it, looking forward to seeing your car finished.

Picked what shoes you will be fitting to fill the widened guards?

 

TE37 SL 11's for rear ..10's for front

they dont make bigger in a forged 1 piece

 

Tuff Zed

Looks good, should have only taken an hour or so to do. Forum hours I mean, LOL. It will be much better when you hit the track with the wider wheel track.