Tucked Bays

Discussion in 'Non Technical' started by Anti, Aug 20, 2012.

  1. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    another one!

    this one is done to the same level as the e-famous red NA. spectacular work.

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    plenum is extensively shaved and welded with silvia 60mm tb's

    built motor, massive amount of custom fabrication by the owner

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    Alternator cabling run through chassis rail...

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    headlights too.

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    I think graffiti paint is temporary before full respray.
     
  2. bsw-59k

    bsw-59k Member

    ^^^have you got a link for that build?
     
  3. Romonski

    Romonski And Justice For All

    better than the red one because its a tt :)
     
  4. loud'n'proud

    loud'n'proud Challenge Accepted

    no one does that level of work to the engine bay and then has a "temp" paint job... and then puts the engine back in whilst waiting for paint...
     
  5. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    I have to say that they have gone to a lot of trouble to remove the mess, just to replace it with more mess. :confused:
     
  6. 1badg35

    1badg35 New Member

    yeah im not seeing it... looks like he welded shut a few holes. the panels need to be completely replaced to look like mine unless he uses a lot of body filler.

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  7. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    1badg35, that looks sh!thouse. Worst engine bay I think I've ever seen!
     
  8. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Saw those recent photos of your car on Canibeat vince, looks killer. forgot to post them up!

    I too don't see what he's been going for with the bay. He's still put in a shitload of custom fab and work hours into it though, which I can't not appreciate.

    To be fair, 197 holes.
     
  9. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Just got in touch with the owner of the graffiti bay car, he confirms it's only a temporary paint scheme
     
  10. Nauraushaun

    Nauraushaun New Member

    So true.
    :O
    What.
     
  11. 1badg35

    1badg35 New Member

    Oh trust me, by a few holes, I know what that's like. I sat there for almost a year welding, body soldering, and smoothing. It's a lot of work.

    Pulling a motor is pretty easy, so I'm not surprised he put it back in prior to paint if he needed to drive it. I haven't quite decided yet but mine may come back out as I want to do some more harness simplification. Not quite sure yet though. I should be able to do my entire harness next round of work with the firewall quick disconnect without removing anything.

    Not sure which pics were on canibeat. The car is all over the place so often, I have a hard time keeping up with it to tell you the truth
     
  12. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Sorry, Stance Nation - http://www.stancenation.com/2012/09/13/wekfest-east-2012-photo-coverage-part-3/

    Just noticed you re did the front rad support, those holes bugged me haha

    What're your new loom plans? I pulled a bit of a lazy with my tuck to be honest - simply moved stuff like the PTU, AFM and main fusebox wires etc down on top of the chassis rail relatively out of sight. When I can afford a daily I'm interested in pulling the motor, re-running the TPS and CAS wiring through the top of the motor harness, then pulling the PTU into the passenger footwell and extending stuff like the fusebox, AFM, etc and whatever's left to run through the passenger side fender. cut and shut the ABS wiring and bam, no more wires in the bay! To be motivated considering work already put into it (it's all relative haha) I'd only do it when I can afford a bay respray and to put in the time to weld it all up and either bash in/replace the fender wells.

    Those quick release firewall plugs from Chase Bays look the go. I was thinking about making up a completely aftermarket wiring loom for a while but came to the conclusion that any form of new loom to start off with would be better.

    Have you thought about going to an aftermarket ECU for its MAP sensor and aftermarket coolant temperature functions? Could mean no more CTS wiring and no more hose going from the intake pipework to the IACV. One of my next steps in the bay is a small filter off the end of the idle unit and welding up the boost pipe, like in the graffiti bay above.
     
  13. simlenton

    simlenton Member

    Ive just had my engine bay smoothed out and repainted as part of my 'Z rejuvination' (see build thread)....All unnecessary holes and brackets have been either welded closed or removed....hopefullt it will look tidy once the engine goes back in with the wiring hidded and the fuse boxes, power steering rese and radiator ovwerflow tank relocated.[​IMG]
     
  14. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    What sort of shop is doing the work? If you want the wiring actually out of sight it takes countless hours of rerouting, extending and replacing portions of the loom. To have it actually done properly you'll be out thousands in labour. Very skeptical.

    What about all the holes across the front member? Can't see the rest, wheel wells have had holes filled but have not been smoothed...

    Radiator overflow bottle isn't in the engine bay.
     
  15. Anti

    Anti 14.7 x 14.7 = 44.1

    Coming along. Before, now.

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  16. DUB

    DUB BRAMIS Photography

    Yeah when you start smoothing chassis rails and removing bonnet latch support stays it tends to get serious...

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  17. Romonski

    Romonski And Justice For All

    fking mint
     
  18. A-Bris-Z

    A-Bris-Z Carcraze

    Looking good Martin. I think the belt covers need to go back on though, looks a bit messy. You've done so much work to tidy up around the engine and now the front has taken a step backwards.
     
  19. Boost Junkie

    Boost Junkie Member

    that looks insane man, i love it.
     
  20. SuperZ

    SuperZ Resident Z lunatic

    F.....!

    That first pic is the tidiest Z engine bay I have ever seen.

    I cant even see ONE GOD DAMN WIRE ANYWHERE!

    F....!
     

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