Wannabe's who bag your car? Whose the wannabe's who bag your car? I bag you because we still have NOT seen a dyno sheet from your supposed 400kw. 310kw is nothing special - a 310rwkw street car is going to be mean weapon and in most peoples eyes is mighty impressive.
yea wanna bees few guys that i know,and dont worry you will get the dyno graph next few days its in my car which is at the workshp and its actually 411 kw
ROFL, sorry but this begs for a response Sounds like someones a bit huffy that there are a couple of daily driven hobby cars that make more power then their dedicated race car As wykked pointed out, one of those dyno queens is still 0.3 seconds faster than your lightened car. If you can tell me that your car ran perfectly on the track its first time out then I will conceed that my car is yet to make a good time. I seem to recall at least one wrecked engine of yours though John Clutch that wont slip and tyres a bit better than 225 street tyres will see nice times I guarantee. Congratulations anyhow, 11.5 is really good for a first effort. With all the wieght taken out of your car and the power its making now you should easily see mid to high tens. Still a lot more to be gained with lower 60' times.
Look forward to seeing the dyno what sort of replacement drive shaft did you get? With the power your making have you thought about going a carbon fibre drive shaft for more strength and less mass?
Lots of action Seems this drag thing has more interest than circuit. jpc300 I thought you were beer talk too. At least yours is not a dyno queen if you are doing these times and must have big power. What was Zisluv best 14.04. You could run faster than that? Or has there been an improvement on this? Jpc300 you had better improve on that 11.2 as I will be on the 10th November. Then we get you out circuit racing and I smash you. You broke a drive shaft right, not a tail shaft? I am surprised you broke either as they are both big and strong. I had my new one piece 3 inch 83 thou wall thickness chromolly tail shaft on for the first time. Had to put a huge and heavy mans metal tail shaft safety loop on which was a big job to fit as centre muffler was in the way. By the way we sponsor OBHAVE R33 GTS-T down Melbourne that has done 10.3 drag auto box. jpc300 ever seen it go? PS Chewy the clutch is still fine. 2 drift days 5 circuit days and now a drift day. This one has extra clamp load though but still single plate. May not last too long if I start doing 10's every second week.
I got my clutch checked and they said the clamping pressure was near stock clamping pressure so they are going to build me a 5 puk cerametallic with much much more clamping pressure for $200 less than what you sell yours for. They can also make me a custom billet alloy flywheel (5.0Kg) stronger than oem and with new replacable ring gear for the same price as your Xtreme billet flywheel. Plus I save on postage.
:LOL: this sounds like a competition of who has the bigger "penis" but on a serious note i do not know why no-one goes out and gets NOS installed, should give that extra power for sub 10's Max:thumbsup:
Cheap Looks like outer Sydney prices kick in again and as long as the quality is good. Save lots on twin plate and if it is good then you won't have a prob. As I have said the clutch is a fuse and if TOO strong then gearbox dies. Be careful going too light on the flywheel thing and quality as if they machine too much then you might get a ballistic cover for your bell housing as you might need it if going to the drags. If the company is Race Clutch up your way then all good as they seam to be very good. Re the clutch maybe this is why your clutch failed. As I said send it back to us and if not right we replace. You know we don't hide from probs and fix things, even when we believe no probs we let the customer win within reason. I can now understand how punishing drag racing is for drive trains after yesterday. My gearbox and diff were geting very hot and diff being a clutch pack and tight was jumping and locking and gears were hard to change after a few runs. I might add there wre some fairly serious Skylines there yesterday with a few on the bottle and stripped down with carbon panels and auto drag box and big power and some BIG turbo's strapped onto to RB26's in R33 GTS-T's. They either didn't perform or broke. That was yesterday though could be different with a good driver and properly set up car with power next time. I don't think we will have a prob on the 10th though. Also even though a street meet my zed is tech inspected now and no probs.
VIDEO Language warning at the end and it was a Skyline man. 24 megs. SAU LINK TO VIDEO Or click here. WSID ZED DRAG VIDEO
Nah that wouldnt be fair... about the penis competition I mean, cause you can imagine all the trouble John would have to go to, to find his to compete with :LOL: Seriously though its not a matter of just wanting 10 second times however you can do it. Adding heaps of nitrous wont necessarily help either. I cant even get traction with the power I have let alone adding more to it, nor can my clutch hold the launch. These are soon to change though, but then its a case of wanting to get the best run out of your car. This means getting your shifts down perfectly, getting 1.6s 60' times and high ET speeds. Once I get all that perfect and I still want to get better times, only then would I bother going with nitrous. I suspect with a little bit of work and practise my car will make it in the 10s and thats good enough for me atm. Cant comment much on the plans of the others, jpc300 (from what he tells us, dyno please!) has the power to run a 10 and seems quite dedicated to the goal, Johns car is lacking the power but its a dedicated track car and much lighter than either of our cars so maybe he might be able to as well.
I believe he has the power, look at the 60' time, it was 1.9 something, if that was cut down to even say a 1.7, with a term speed of 130+mph thats an easy 11 flat or less.
I don't think the slotcar suspension is setup for drag either. Alot of traction (and therefore time) can be gained by dialling out the camber and softening the suspension at the rear - 2 things you don't really want to do in a track car!
Suspension set up What camber and toe etc is best set up for Drag Franz or other? I am going to raise the front about 4 mm and lower the rear 2 or 3 mm to transfer the weight to the rear a little. I have removed the big double blade rear wing as thought it would slow it down a bit and don't need traction at high speed, although the slot car was spinning the wheels in 4th so? I noticed on the vid she was not squating much and I did not adjsuted the rear shocks to full soft so will do that next time and should help.
less total power but good power to weight as his car his lighter is what I was saying, and yeah I agree.
No camber no toe... ...you pretty much want to put as much tyre to the track as possible... since there are no corners to contest, as little camber as possible is best. I'm not sure lowering the rear would be ideal; under acceleration the weight shifts anyways... you want the suspension/tyre wall to soak as much of the squat as possible as it then takes the slip away from the tyres (to a certain extent obviously) therefore more suspension travel = better. I'm sure others on here can better explain it; my brain isn't working too well this morning!
setting my springs to soft made the ET worse trying to make the car squat by lowering the rear and/or softening the springs may dial in more axle tramping (at least that is what I found) or bind the suspension up. The zed has an anti-squat geometry suspension setup and it doesn't like to be foreced into squatting. What needs to happen is the inbound front facing rear lower control arms need to be dropped a bit (impossible with standard suspenion). I've got some rough sketches at home of what I play to construct for rear lower control arms so the amount of anti-squat can be changed to my liking. By the way I picked up my rebuilt clutch this morning and was surprised to get my new 5 puk clutch disc with stronger dampening springs, pressure plate machined and finger pressure change to be 100% stronger clamping force plus new throwout bearing for $370. No-one else in Australia could even come close to that price. I would have sent the clutch back to you but these guys are just around the corner from me so I save money postage.
Hey Nathan, if you're polling for "biggest prick on the forum"...... then you're pretty close to securing my vote :LOL::LOL::LOL: As for this 10 second zed, DON'T talk about it just do it & after you post a time slip, then you can bask in the limelight. I remember a former zed owner in QLD who did a lot of "talking" about a 10 second zed and got flamed repeatedly for the BIG talk. John Penno has shown that you don't need to be running big numbers to run pretty slick times on a quarter mile, obviously set up and technique play a huge part. While we're on the subject of dyno numbers, there is a zed destined for our shores early next year that is capable of producing numbers that will make yours & jpc300's look like tricycles. So you better hurry up and crack ten before UNIQUE ZED does otherwise you'll have no laurels to rest on.
There is already a Z who has cracked 10's, but using the forum is of no interest to him. It isn't really much to boast about in his opinion. Did anyone find out if those HPI print-outs are in street trim? If they are then there is already a heap of them running these times in .au
