Like to know where you can get federal semi's for $210. Normal 595's yes, semi's, skeptical Mike is skeptical
You and me both. I'm in two minds about molding it to the hatch or not. What do you think? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25113646...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1685wt_1163
Mould it in I would say. Looking at the pictures, there isn't enough of a defined edge to just be as is. The bit where the 3rd light normally goes looks a bit strange as to how it fits.
I was planning to do this for the longest time but have gone off the idea recently. At the moment I'm planning to paint the rear hatch in its entirety and attach the rear wing with sika only, so I can run some fishing line underneath it at a later date and remove it if I'm so inclined without having to repaint the hatch. Just keeping my options open! Besides, if I mold it in I can't convert it to an air brake Keep dreaming! I may as well send it off to AMS.
rate my bodge Strapped my battery down today. I thought about bending up a strip of aluminium and bolting it down to existing mounts in the boot but that would be a massive PITA. I know the new Ford Fiesta uses a nylon strap to secure its battery (major cost cutting there) so I went with that idea. $20 of materials and 1/2 an hour later the battery isn't going anywhere. The nylon strap is load rated to 100kg and simply loops through a flange for the speaker bracket. and loops through a padlock latch bolted to the boot floor. thoughts? my only real concern is snapping the bolt coming from the floor. might get the bracket welded down. As is though the multiple holes at the base of the bracket keep my options open for bigger batteries at a later date... i'll be cutting out the shock trim to suit before covering the lot as part of a custom pair of corner sub boxes. -A ps: powertrix r/t's are here! i'll clean them up tonight and get some good photos.
Possibly a stupid question since you've probably researched this more than me, but you don't need a battery box or some way to vent externally with it mounted in the boot? It looks like you've used big washers bolting the hinge down, if you're really worried fit 2 more bolts to keep it held down?
Venting is required for acid or non sealed batteries. All it takes is a small tube out the car. Or a gel battery you can mount even upside down with no vents. Anti a question got posed to me today was do I have a permit for the battery relocation mod? Do you know anything about mods for battery relocations?
Man mount that thing properly -go but a $15 bracket kit from auto one or whatever and drill two holes in the floor. Those ford focus type serious with the euro battery are secured with a fixed ledge on one side and a removable clamp (to which the strap is attached) on the other. Should be vented too...
It's not so much to do with the boot as the cabin space. In this case yeah unless it's an AGM battery it should be vented.
I could drill and tap the boot floor - any ideas on how strong it is? Thought it'd be easier to simply get the bracket welded to the floor... It's meant to have engineer's approval as far as I know, defect otherwise. So long as the bolt doesn't snap (valid concern) it's a defect either way, and as is once I box it won't be going anywhere. I'll get a vent tube for it though, thanks for the tip. Will be a piece of piss to plumb it out the side of the rear bar.
Also depends how tight you can get that snatch strap and how much give etc there is in the nylon. Wouldn't be worried about it running away on you (although a 13kg battery would make quite the projectile if you had to make a sudden stop) as shorting out on the body work if it does move around.
Might be worth putting a bolt through the floor just at each end so it can't move forward/back? Luckily the bose box/sound deadening behind it means little chance to short, good point though. Strap is surprisingly effective, tightened into the tar on the boot floor I struggle to move the battery by force.
Definately get that bracket secured down better than a single bolt. Can you easily get in underneath to weld a nut on the underside if the floor isn't thick enough to tap? Im not familiar with the layout of the fuel tank etc on the 2+2. Probably be easier to just weld the bracket to the floor. I rolled a car mid-way through a rear speaker install and had a 6x9 clout me in the back of the head. Bloody hurt, a battery could kill you.
third time's the charm that's a really valid point - doesn't look like it's going anywhere at the moment, but in a roll over that bolt would snap in a heartbeat. I think I'll get the bracket welded to the boot floor when I can. Means I can reposition it if I so choose as well, thanks for pointing that out. I don't know, probably, it's sealed so that's good enough for me. That and Rob260 has the same one in his boot in other news, been gunning it on the Z the last few days to get it back on the road. been off for 2-3 months now powertrix's are in. disassembled, cleaned up, reset the dampers and preload, set height with verniers, good to go. I have e-mailed Powertrix about new boots as 3/4 are shagged. these are straight out of Dean's purp derp zed, thank you for holding them for me 'til I had the coin bud this is my third set of coilovers now. -A
Ha it's not quite sealed... It's a "maintenance fee" type but still full of wet acid and still has vent on the side to let gasses out. I wouldn't want to share a cabin with one for too long... The one I'm using was a stop gap thing -I'm going back to AGM now that the power is on in my garage and I can trickle charge it easily. I would suggest venting that battery properly. After you secure it properly
Mine is vented, it's a targa top haha seriously though the pressure equaliser vents in the sides of the rear bar are right near the battery, i should plumb it to there.
