Geoff, I know what they say. But saying it doesnt make it best. Here's an example. What do you think you are more likly to burn your feet on? A 0.1mm sheet of teflon placed over red hot coals you have to walk on, OR a 3mm thick sheet ?? I will take the 3mm sheet everytime cause the heat transmission is much much less. What they have provided and the thickness of the material Is very effective electrical isolation. IE: none of the alloy parts touch the lower pleum. BUT the washers shoulders are only about 0.1mm thick and heat travels through that sort of contact area really easily. ALSO above their thin isolation barrier, is solid alloy that is connected straight to the fuel. So any heat transmission is direct to the fuel. If you look at the stock rail. That attachments are through flags. The heat has to travel through 3mm of plastic then it has to transfer along the tag which is only welded to the rail by a thin strip weld. It is only logical that the solid billet rail is going to heat up quicker. They could fix the 300degree design pretty easy. Machine a slot along the contact point of the bottom of the rail and insert a 3-4mm plastic pad in the alloy instead of the thin shouldered washers. Problem solved. Or even change the shouldered washers so the shoulders are 3-4mm thick. Then machine deeper into the bottom of the rail to accomodate the extra thickness . My point is YES they are thermally isolated. But they may as well not have bothered cause the method and materials are POOR and essentially it will do nothing. Having said that if you want to use the Series 2 SARD/Nismo style injectors as you have. Then maybe you didnt have a choice but to use them. Its just not a choice I would make.
Ok here is shot of my rails, you can see the front insulator with the washer on top (red line) its around 2mm thick, there is also an insulator on the other side between the rail and the lower plenum, its the same size. The bolts and washers holding down the rails are insulated from the rail, the difference is the 300deg rail is 3mm closer than the stock rail. There are no soldiered washers with the 300deg kit, not sure what your talking about there, but i do understand your point graham, and as far as that goes, a bigger insulator would be better, but you should remember this is a road driven car mate, the engine is set up to run spec temperatures, i'm not sure having the rails 3mm closer is going to make a big difference to me.
You mean Shouldered washers. Here they are from their web site here they are fitted. The bolts actually dont transfer much heat so insulating the bolts from the rail isnt going to make a heap of difference. Its the flat part on the bottom of the rail that is in contact or close contact with the lower plenum where the heat transfer is going to come from. So all they are relying on to stop heat soak os the very thin plastic shoulder on the bottom washer to stop the heat transfer occuring. If you are happy with what you have basically thats fine. IMO they are drawing a pretty big bow saying they are thermally isolated when the stock ones do it so much better. The insulator is so thin it wont make much if any difference. The point of my comments is that what Ezzup has done basically gives him what the 300degree rails do, but in a better (higher performance) package and he can use SARD650's in them.
More pics almost done now.. have pressurized half of rail to 65psi and no leaks help pressure for over 20min then i stopped it. will do final test on whole rail tomorrow at 80psi. Also got my modded VQ30det rails fitted.
top work dude, I've got my 816cc top feeds now so I'll be doing my fuel rails in about 2 weeks (once the plenums done)
just got my copy of AutoCAD 2010 today, doing the drawings tonight and will email the laser cutters tommorow. This weekend is engine in, next weekend is hopefully when the plenum will be done, then it will be machined for the injectors and faced, then hopefully installed
ezzup, You will prob find that you will have to swap one of the cap heads on each injector cap for a countersunk version as on one side they will hit the plenum.
was going to diegrind the plenum so that everything clears good. but if rotating the cap works ill do that instead cheers
straight barbed fittings are going to make it hard to get the inlet and outlet hoses on the rails, the heater pipes are in the way,
the straight ones are to pressure test the rail. once we put them on the motor we were going to change them around. thanks for the pic though. i know now ill need a 45deg fitting cheers. ps: motor looks sweet
yellow tops are sard 650cc i think. they are sards though. my red ones in the bottom pics are s2 555cc
well good new for anyone interested in the rails, They didnt leak wohoo. pressurized to just over 100psi. And sat at 100psi for over 30min. Sard orings are perfect if you need orings for your sards msg chilledpain as he can source them. Testing pressure.
Everything in this thread defies my logic. I need some enlightenment in physics here. How does boring out your fuel rail have any benefit at all? Other than possibly reducing heat soak which in turn, will raise fuel temps anyway. I'd understand if you need to dump a lot of fuel and by doing that, running bigger lines from the pump right through to your supersoaker injectors to get 2000hp. But I can't see it achieving anything. This is a high pressure, low flow system that's being modded. Meaning that fuel will always be there as the only real restriction is your injectors. Unless you are running injectors that out flow your rail, (which would also lead to no fuel pressure anyway) then I really don't see the need for it. This isn't like an exhaust system when higher flow by lower pressure is required, which means reducing restrictions. Could it just be for capacity reasons? Obviouly a much smaller diameter won't deliver enough fuel. Can anyone help me understand, as I would've thought the standard rail would be sufficient. Alot of other parts in the Z are more than sufficient and can take far more again.
i cant answer much of that. why would people buy 300degree rails then. its not a high pressure system i was just making a point that sards sealed at 100psi its going to run stock pressure. all im doing is allowing fuel to flow freely to the last two cylinders on the rail. if any one can answer these Q's that would be cool
I don't mean high as in more pressure. All fuel systems ARE high pressure/low flow... Well, injected anyway. I don't imagine carbies running too much pressure. Just enough to get fuel through, the engine sucks it in. Fuel doesn't flow through there in a sense, it's packed in and waits to be pushed out. The last 2 injectors don't suffer as they don't all fire at once and as I said, it's all under pressure. Don't get me wrong, I love mods! I'm just trying to get my head around this one.
