Tie Rod Spacer Install for More Angle!

So, in this thread I'm going to show you guys only the install of the spacers and such. I'm assuming you guys already know how to remove the stock components, and reinstall stock components.

I will be showing you two different kinds of tie rod spacers.
The bolt on type (only one needed):


And the slip on type (1-2 needed depending on installation)

The slip ons are usually 6-7mm in thickness. Any thicker, and you run the risk of not having enough threads screwed into the rack.

Now, when installing spacer, it would be best to overhaul every component while you're in there, since you'll have to take everything off to install them.
My recommendations:
New inners, new outers, new boots, new hardware.

One note about the inners: when running these spacers, I highly recommend running Z33 inner tie rods ends. I explain why and show comparison shots between Z32 and Z33 inners in this thread: http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?p=2187222

Now, onto the install.
Bolt On Spacer (passenger side only)
If you have the thicker bolt on spacer, that one will go on the passenger side. Now, you're probably wondering why not run two thick spacers, one per side, for maximum angle. Well, the reason is, the driver side runs out of travel before the passenger side does. So the rack will bottom out before the spacer can be used effectively. Therefore, only a slip on spacer will work best on the driver side. So save your money, and the headache of not being able to align your car because you spaced your tie rods out too much, lol.

Let's begin:
Your rack should look like this at this point:

Everything off, even the tie rod end locker, that square looking thing that was wrapped around the square end of the inner tie rod end. You will no longer be able to use that. Instead, we will be using blue thread lock to secure the tie rods/ spacer to the rack.
Before anyone says this is unsafe, I ran with that set up for 2 years, with monthly track events, and lots of daily driving without issues. IMO, it's a non-issue.
Back on track. You want to put some blue thread lock on the threads of the bolt on spacer like so:


Then just screw it in to the rack. Make sure it is snug against it when you tighten it all the way down.


Next, you want to place some threadlock on the threads of your inner tie rod end, just like you did on the spacer.
Then screw it into the spacer. Again, when you tighten it down, make sure it seats all the way against the spacer, like so...


Slip the boots over the assembly, tie it down with the metal wire, install the outer tie rod end, and bolt it down to the spindle, and you're done.

Slip On Spacer
Now, this section will work for driver side and passenger side if you only have slip on spacers at your disposal.
This is what it should look like, already installed on the tie rod end.


Much like with the bolt on spacer, you will not be able to use the tie rod end locking clip. So threadlock will be used again

Again, apply some threadlock to the threads, and screw it into the rack. Make sure the spacer seats fully against the rack as shown here



Slip the boots over the assembly, tie it down with the metal wire, install the outer tie rod end, and bolt it down to the spindle, and you're done.

Centering the rack
If you're using one bolt on spacer, and one slip on spacer, you will need to recenter the rack. If you're using two slip on spacers, one per side, disregard this section.

Since you're using two different sized spacer, you will have more steering to one side, than the other. Since the thicker spacer is on the passenger side, you will be able to turn the wheel more to the right than to the left.

In order to fix this, you have to recenter the rack. It is a pretty easy process.
You will want to turn the wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
Mark the steering wheel at the 12:00 position.
From here, turn the wheel all the way to the left, and count how many turns you get. For me, I got 3 1/8 turns.
Now, divide the number of turns you got by two, and turn the wheel that many times back. So in my case, divide 3 1/8 by 2, and I get a little over 1.5 turns. So I turn the wheel back just a wee bit past 1.5 turns.

From here, you will need to remove your steering wheel. If you have a 90 Z32, this is easy. If you have an airbag, look up steering wheel removal, as I know there are specific tools needed to remove the steering wheel.
While removing the steering wheel, take care to not move the wheel, as you will uncenter the rack.
Once the wheel is off, you can reinstall the wheel with it being straight.
And you have now recentered your steering rack.

Keep in mind, that since you have spaced out the tie rods, you alignment will be toed in. So be sure to compensate for that by toeing the car out up front. This is only to get your car to an alignment shop, as you will be in need of an alignment.

The Results
Here are 3 pictures showing the differences in steering.
This is stock, full lock (pretty pathetic)


This is with (1) slip on spacer per side:


And with (1) slip on spacer and (1) bolt on spacer



If you have any questions, just post up and ask

 

Or you could do it the ghetto way and take off the dust seal that slides along the rack, easy and free.

 

Won't get you as much angle.

 

Who sells these(and how much)?:zlove:

 

Nah, just want to be able to get into those narrow Parking spots at Double Bay(without having to remove my Cravat, or do a Hand-brake turn).:rofl:

Mmmm?? Doing a "U" turn in a 2 lane street, now there's a challenge worthy of considering(it's also hugely embarrassing to find that your 97 Commie has a far smaller turning circle than your Z32).:rofl::rofl::rofl::br:

 

A quick stab of the right foot.....

will make the turning circle of the zed resemble that of a "zero turn" lawn mower :rofl:

These newfangled 'doodads' are no good Lloyd, the "old fashioned" ways are always the best

 

Mmmm??? Ride-on Mower you say? :thumbup:

 

Also very interested in this! How much these normally go for and where from?

 

I'm interested too!

 

A shop called DriftSpeed in California sells the bolt on spacers, as well as a vendor on Zilvia under the name "george." For the slip on spacers, both Tein and Powered By Max (Parts Shop Max) sell those.
And U turn in a 2 lane road is definitely doable now

 

what do they cost? keen too.

 

In the US... $50-$80 for the bolt ons, and around $10 for the slip ons

 

I'm guessing the screw in one is the premium product where as the slip on ones are second choice. What's the chances you can tell us the measurements for the slip on ones. Thickness, od, id etc. Surely the slip on ones can be cheaply reproduced somewhere local. In Australia.

 

I personally dont think there is anything wrong with the stock lock. I cant see much point in this..Just me tho.
L8r
E

 

That was a helpful write-up!

I'd be interested to know if this modification effects the offset of your wheel base (once you've had it aligned by a pro to sit straight once again)

because essentially you're pushing your wheels out at one part of the steering/suspension geometry. Does this sound about right?

 

I dont think a lot of people are going to be in a different boat to you regarding this. I too think the stock steering is ace. Best sense of feeling and response I've come to find in a vehicle. But this mod would benefit the drifters amongst us. Oh and from the sounds of it, the people that hate doing 3 point turns. Haha. But to be able to throw out a little more would be ideal for the slidesters out there.

Benny, depending on the amount of added width this poses, would you think the geometry would be only affected a little. I mean if you have enough adjustable goodies you could dial it out to a certain degree. But on a near stock suspension, wouldn't there be a small window of acceptance for such a mod....

 

This is mostly a "drifting" mod. The more steering angle you have, the better. I know on my car, stock steering was limiting what I cold do, especially on NA power. I couldn't hold high angle drifts and transitions were hard to hold. With the first angle mod, the car was so much easier to hold sideways.
That and U turns are so much easier now.
With regards to suspension geometry, from what I know, it does change it slightly, but only because you are pushing out the inner pivot point for the tie rods. However, the outer point doesn't change. This doesn't widen your stance or anything like that. With these spacers installed, you're supposed to get a new alignment, which will toe out the front in order to compensate for the pushed out tie rod ends, bringing you back to stock toe.

 

What I want is a faster rack...that is all.

 

Close

But i'd rather a fast woman with a big rack.