Ok i have done alot of research as well as doing it myself over the years... I have been a fulltime car detailer for over 3 years now but started detailing bits and pieces since i was 15... The following is pretty much a basic guide to help you clean and protect your zed... Ok so here we go... Its basic if you want some more answers i am more then happy to help you out The products used in theses guides are off the shelf products which can be found at any of your local car stores eg: Autobarn, supercheap just to name a couple. Washing and Drying your car Recommended Products: Johnson & Johnson Baby Shampoo Meguiars Microfibre Chamois Old/Cheap Chamois A Good Sponge Detailing Cloths (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Microfibre Cloths (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Meguiars Hot Shine Tyre Spray Bucket Keeping your car clean though regular washing is the biggest benefit for its appearance. Washing helps remove loose dirt, road film that collects on top of your car?s paint surfaces. Not just you?re once in the blue moon of hosing down the car you have to scrub it with shampoo and sponge or if you like a wash mitt. Some car wash shampoos can remove the protection from your car?s paint, causing oxidation (paint starvation). Detergents can dull the finish of your car even faster. You may ask why I have recommended Johnson & Johnson Baby Shampoo. It?s because it has a neutral PH level that will not strip off the polishes/waxes you have on your car. If it is gentle enough to use on your baby it is gentle enough to use on your car without damaging the polishes/waxes you have just applied to the surface of your car. High quality car wash shampoos on the market today can often have detergents in them which strip off the polishes/waxes that you have spent hours applying. Washing Tips: Wash the tyres and wheels first. If you wash the cars body before you do the tyres and wheels the water will dry and spot your car before you finish washing the tyres and wheels. Never use the same bucket of water you wash your cars paint. Make sure your car is cool. A best result is in the shade. A hot surface causes the wash and rinse water to evaporate too quickly which increases the likelihood of water spotting. For a better result park your car on a slight incline. This will allow the water to rinse off mouldings, trim, etc. You can start by thoroughly wetting the car with a medium spray to remove loose grit and surface dust. Wash your car from top to bottom and rinse the car often. Frequent rinsing is especially important if you are using a shampoo containing natural oils. The oils cushion the paint and minimize abrasion which are heavier then water which can leave a film if allowed to sit on the car?s surface. For best results rinse off free flowing water (nozzle off the hose) allowing the water to sheet off the car. Drying Tips: Your car should be freshly free of visible dirt, grease and oil. Using a clean chamois start at the top of your car and work your way down to the bottom by drawing the chamois across the surface in a straight line. Repeat wiping down until the surface is mostly dry. Finish off using a dry microfibre towel to remove any remaining droplets and streaks. Use one of the detailing cloths to dry your tyres and wheels. You can use an old chamois if you wish but it will become soiled. Never use your good microfibre towels. If I don?t use a detailing cloth I use an old chamois I have sitting around which I clean when it gets dirty after wiping down the tyres and rims with the high pressure cleaner. Open up the doors and use an Old/Cheap chamois to dry the door sills and jambs. Also wipe under the door and along the door edge also. I say use an Old/Cheap chamois because your door jambs pick up a lot of grease and dirt over time. After Drying Tips: No matter when you last waxed your car, driving and pollutants in the air deplete the wax or sealant protection which is applied to the car. You can use a quick detailing spray which renews the waxed shine and also extends the life of your wax or sealant. Spray a lightly mist of spray wax then wipe it with one of the microfibre cloth?s and buff it off with the other. Spray your tyres with the Meguairs Hot Shine Tyre Shine once a week to keep them looking good and protect the rubber. How To Remove Water Marks And Swirls Recommended products: Autoglym Paint Renovator Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner Meguiars Medium Cut Cleaner Meguiars Swirl Remover Foam applicator Pads Polishing Towels (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Microfibre Cloths (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Did you know the same water we use to bath our car?s in can also damage the paint on our cars. The spots and damage are caused by the minerals that are in the water. When water evaporates off of the cars paint it leaves behind the trace elements that it contains. Calcium as well as metals are the highest damaging elements found in tap water, where rain water may contain damaging acids from air pollutants. Avoiding water spots on your cars paint is easy if you chase after them. The best thing to use is a quick detailing spray after you have washed your car or as soon as you find the spots. If the spots are left to dry and bake on they then will attach and harden to the paints surface. If you leave the spots for more then a week or so the minerals will etch the paint and they will have etched spots (dimples). If this is the case you can use either a medium cut polish if you have a polisher or you can use a fine cut polish compound for hand use to restore the painted surface. Swirl Marks: Swirl marks are nothing more then micro marring in the paints surface which is commonly know as buffing marks. If you look though a microscope the marks appear to be a scratch, however you cannot feel the scratch with your finger or finger nail. The reason why swirl marks show up more on black and other dark coloured cars is because the sides of the marring reflect light. When you polish the edges are rounded which reduces the reflection. Incorrect use of a buffer or polisher is not only the case of swirl marks. Every single time you wash your car or wipe it down you are creating the swirl marks. The severity of swirl marks depends on the tools used as well as the contaminants present. The top 10 most frequent causes of swirl marks 1.) Polishers/buffers with the incorrect pad or an untrained operator; 2.) Harsh polishing compounds and paint cleaners; 3.) Towels and applicators containing polyester threads; 4.) A dirty chamois or a chamois that has not been properly maintained; 5.) Wiping down a dusty or dirty car with a dry towel; 6.) A dirty car duster or a car duster used on a car with too much dirt on the surface; 7.) Not keeping your wash mitt or sponge properly rinsed; 8.) Automated car washes with brushes and other wipers; 9.) Not rinsing your car completely before washing, or not washing your car thoroughly before drying; and 10.) Using a car cover when the car or the cover is not clean. The areas you notice swirl marks are on the bonnet and boot. On dark coloured cars you will notice it on doors and fenders. Bright coloured ars do not show swirl marks well because it reflects more light. This does not mean they don?t get swirl marks they show up more on dark coloured cars, black being right at the top as it displays swirls and other imperfections. Swirl marks can be removed by polishing. Polishing out swirl marks without a buffer is a lot of hard work. I suggest when you polish your car by hand to do it in small sections as you go so you can see the progress. Removing swirl marks you will need a good medium cut polish. A lot of manufacturers do make a special polish just for removing swirl marks. Theses swirl mark removers do contain fillers and oils to help hide the swirl marks. Over time with regular polishing swirl marks will diminish. It is very difficult to completely remove swirl marks. Even using the best towels and wash tools causes some micro marring. Polishing to remove spots and swirls: If the water spots or swirl marks are severe I suggest using the Autoglym paint renovator. Follow the application of a fine rubbing compound with a good polish like the Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish. Use good foam applicator pad to apply the polish by hand. To keep swirl marks to a minimum make sure you have good wash and dry tools. Never wipe, rub or polish in circles (straight line motions only). Regular polishing is the only way to remove water spots and swirl marks as well as a good polish, good tools and be patient. How To Polish Your Car By Hand Many people assume that waxing and polishing are the same. In fact, they are two different processes. Recommended products: Foam Applicators Meguiars Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner Polishing Towels (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Microfibre Cloths (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish Autoglym Super Resin Polish All painted surfaces age from exposure to ultraviolet light, pollution and acid rain. The finishes gradually become dull and chalky. By just applying waxes over theses surfaces will only create a temporary gloss over the already dull paint. To reveal the paints vitality, vibrancy, and depth, it must be polished first. By polishing we are deep cleaning the paints surface. It removes oxidation, old wax, minor swirl marks as well as water spots. After it has been polished it leaves the top layer of the paint rejuvenated which is then ready to be waxed or sealed. Polishing creates a uniform high gloss shine on the paints surface. Evaluating Your Cars Paint: You can evaluate the cars paint every single time you wash it. To do this all you need to do is wash and dry the car, then with clean hands run your fingertips across the paints surface. The surface should feel smooth just like glass is. If it does not feel smooth then what you are feeling is contaminants and oxidation on the paints surface. This means that it is time to clean and polish you cars paint with a good polish. To find out if your paint does have enough wax protection all you need to do is rub a clean dry detailing towel over the bonnet or boot surface. If you hear squeaking that is because the paints surface is dry and is in need of a good polish and protection. When any car surface has good wax protection and using a good buffing towel it should glide with ease across the surface. Selecting A Polish: When selecting a good polish at times it can become very intimidating as there is so hundreds to choose from. Each polish has different abrasive or cut capability. There are also polishes for clear coat and non-clear coat finishes. By polishing a newer car two times a year will maintain the cars showroom appearance for years to come. Newer cars usually has a clear coat finish so it?s always best to select a low abrasive polish which is safe for clear coat finishes. To be safe when polishing and paint cleaning, it is best to use a polish that is designed to be a fine pre wax cleaner on new paint and paint that is in excellent condition. If your paints finish is dull, cloudy or chalky it may require the use of light rubbing compound. When polishing with compounds be very caution as they will quickly remove the top layer of dead paint. Always check your work often so you can make sure that you don?t rub the paint too thin. Follow compounding with a swirl remover polish. Polishing Tips: After you have selected the polish you wish to use here is a couple of tips to make polishing easier. ? Work in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight. Never ever polish a car in the sun or when the paint is hot as the polishes will streak ? Work on one area at a time. Buff off the polish residues as you go. This allows you to discover any problems early before polishing the entire car. ? For best results, use a foam applicator pad to apply polish. If you need a little more polish or cleaning power, use a terry cloth applicator. When the applicator becomes caked with polish, switch to a fresh applicator. ? Use a small amount of polish. With most polishes, a 1-inch size dab is enough to polish a 20cm to 30cm area. ? If the polishing residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean buffing towel. ? Apply polishes in a back and forth motion, not circular (polishes should take out swirls, not create them? don't polish in circles). If you are creating swirls, you are using a polish that is too abrasive or you need to replace your polishing pad or towels. ? After polishing, your car's paint should be squeaky clean, smooth, and free of streaks and minor swirls. It's now ready for waxing. Waxing And Sealing Your Car Recommended Products: Turtle Wax Platinum Series Carnauba Wax Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (synthetic wax) Meguiars NXT Generation Wax (synthetic wax) Polishing Towels (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Microfibre Cloths (can be Kenco, Meguiars etc) Regardless of how fine the finish is now, it will deteriorate and dull. Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insect fluids and bird droppings wage a constant war on your car's finish. Waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment. Waxing your car no matter if its old or new makes it look better. Quality waxes now combine enriching oils that ?wet? the surface with protective formulas of carnauba or modern polymers for a high-gloss shine. The types of waxes around today can make it hard to choose one. Waxes can be made from a natural wax usually Brazilian carnauba or are synthetically made of polymers and acrylic resins. Waxing and sealants make the surface of the car reflect more light. The results of this are that the paint looks vibrant. Carnauba based waxes add an element of depth and warmth to the paint. Synthetic wax formulas create brilliance and sparkle. Carnauba Wax: Carnauba comes from the fronds of the "tree of life" (Copernicia cerifera) native to Brazil. It is nature's hardest, purest and most transparent wax. Carnauba car waxes tend to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine that is often described as "three-dimensional." Carnauba waxes bead water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain, and hide minor swirls in the paint. On the minus side, carnauba waxes are not as durable as synthetic waxes or sealants. Depending on your climate, a carnauba wax might last between 30 and 60 days. Additionally, some carnauba waxes can be temperamental, occasionally streaking under certain temperature or humidity conditions. Synthetic Waxes: To make true wax coating durable they have turned to synthetic waxes that mimic the valued properties of natural carnauba but it greatly improves on the limitations. Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection would have to be one of the most durable waxes. Super Resin Polish is a thin liquid, which allows it to be applied very quickly and with little to no rubbing required. Buffing off is also a breeze, and reveals a bright, shiny, slick surface that will bead water and look great for 4 to 6 months. The polymer sealants are becoming more and more common due to the low cost of silicone polymers. The acrylic resin molecule is heavier than polymer strands, which can do a better job of hiding minor paint flaws. Acrylics do tend to have more natural look and are less likely to cloud the paint. Applying Wax: After you have selected the wax you wish to use here is a couple of tips to make waxing easier. ? Work in a shaded area out of direct sunlight. ? Use a foam or terry cloth applicator pad to apply your wax. When the applicator becomes caked with wax, switch to a fresh applicator. ? Work on one area at a time. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off, but most do not. ? Follow the wax manufacturer's instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing. ? Use a small amount of wax at a time, and rub it in well. If you use too much wax, you're wasting the product and your time. ? If the wax residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel. ? Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. If you are creating swirls, you need to replace your applicator or towels. ? After waxing, your car's paint should feel slick and smooth, and be free of streaks and smudges. What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don't want to buff out perfectly? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage. Next, using a good spray bottle and distilled water, spritz a small area and buff with a clean terry cloth towel. The warmth of the sun softens the wax, allowing it to buff out to a clear, high gloss. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray. If you're using an enthusiast sealant system, use the quick detailer made for the system. Regular waxing is necessary to protect your car's paint from the elements. In addition to sealing and protecting, waxes and sealants also improve the appearance of freshly washed and polished paint. If you use the right products, you can successfully layer waxes and sealants to make your paint look deeper and almost liquid. I hope that this will help out people... I will post up about the interior soon but thats pretty basic really keep it nice and clean and use a protectant for the dash but i will throw up some pointers Nath
Superb write-up Nathan It's already in the Tech A-Z/Body section. Check for any edits required. Well done :zlove: :zlove: :zlove: :zlove:
VFT!!! Excellent write up. Although I knew alot of this info already, it will be very helpful to look up when I need a refresher and for new users too!!! Cuddos!! Cheers Rob
Curious, I've seen some companies advertising a type of "Glass Sealant". I've seen before and after pics of cars looking quite crap to looking like just been painted (obviously the paint was cut etc. first to get it shiny). But this new stuff they said basically coats the paint in some sort of glass that makes it mirror like in reflectiveness and lasts for ages. You heard anything about this? Some examples of this sort of stuff here: http://www.paintprotection.com.au/restore-used-cars-paint.php http://www.paintprotectiondirect.com.au/index.html It does cost a bit, but it looks fantastic...any fine print with this sort of stuff?
water spots on windows Great write up Nath,good stuff.One thing i would like to know is how to get rid of the water spots that seem to be permanently on the window.I have them on the wifes ford and cant get them off.Some one has said vinegar,is this correct,cheers simon
I'd just try using newspaper to wipe off whatever you spray on it (water + metho spirits or Windex). Newspaper polishes the window and should take off spots.
I use paint protection at work on the new and used cars if the customer is talked into buying it... I have read them sites alot of useful info but IMHO its not worth the money they say it is... What it does is fill the paint and its sopose to protect from bird droppings weather etc... After a while you do need to apply it just like any polish and wax... The money you spend on them you can buy a good polish and wax applicator Pads and some microfibre clothes and still have money left over to spend on the zed :zlove: The one we sell at work is $540... the top of the range is over 2k and its a gel... Simon i have heard about vinegar but never used it only on my chips On a serious note did you know you can polish your windows? Well you can... I do it at times at work with the buff and cutting compound but you can buy products to do it... I have used Autoglym Glass Polish one of the best products going around and then there is other ones that are also great to use... All you have to do is rub the polish in thoroughly with a terry cloth applicator, and buff dry with a terry cloth or microfiber towel. It does smell but the smell does go away quick... For severe water spotting, you can use Autoglym Glass Polish with #000 or #0000 synthetic steel wool (use on exterior only!). The ultrafine synthetic steel wool provides a bit more cutting power for the really tough jobs. NEVER EVER USE NORMAL HOUSEHOLD STEEL WOOL The glass polish cannot fix glass damage from road stones and severe water spot etching. If your glass is badly pitted or etched, it may need to be replaced. You should be able to find the synthetic steel wool at any autoshop... I'll take a look for it at work its in one of the many boxes we got full of crap as we hide our products so others dont use them...
Yep thats it newspaper is good as the ink acts as the cleaner I do use windex or i buy a glass cleaner either Autoglym or meguair's... Just got to make sure if you use newspaper after you are finished wash your hands otherwise it will get on your interior when you get in and out of your car
Top stuff Nath. Can you give me some advice? I cleaned off some spray-on window tint from the inside of my windows with carby cleaner when I first got my car. It worked pretty good but I can still see a misty residue in certain light. What would you recommend? The rear hatch has the demister wire which I have been careful not to damage so the less elbow grease and the more chemical assistance on that window may be best. Cheers .. Bob
Bob a good glass cleaner that is safe on tinted windows... something like Meguiar's no smear glass cleaner... its safe for tinted windows and works well. Also autoglym has another good glass cleaner to use.. Elbow grease is what you do need to use to get stuff of it your windows... At the detailing day on saturday i helped Krause007 aka Andrew get some grease off the drivers side window... used the meguair's glass cleaner and a microfibre cloth and got it off as well as elbow grease hehe It really depends how dirty the windows are to how much elbow grease to apply... Yeah with any rear window have to be careful near the demister wire but on a hatch its easy to clean then in a sedan... Once the windows are nice and clean ont he inside to keep them that way use a damp microfibre cloth once a week and wipe over them you dont have to use the glass cleaner only use it if they are dirty...
Cheers Nath. I'll get to it soon when the whole clean/wax thing happens before the 'Old Farts Cruise'.
Awesome write up Nathan, I'll be printing that out and laminating it so I can take it outside while I wash my car! Thanks again for cleaning the window, no amount of normal car wash was cleaning it off Been trying for like 6 months! Then you come along and BAM! its gone! History, cant even tell it was there! Actually your lying, I never hada grease mark on my window, its always been clean! Ok, I think its time for bed lol
Top stuff Nath!!! Great write up.......definitely worthy of it's addition to the tech section!!! :zlove:
Man so much great stuff getting added to tech.....i was supposed to sell the zed to get another but i dont want to waste the time in between
Thanks guys I have a couple more to write and i will post them up... Yep mothers is another great brand to use... each to there own really I dont mind using mothers but alot of people like to use meguair's
I also want to thank you for the great write-up. I went out and bought a whole bunch of that stuff yesterday and went crazy with it, washed the car when I got home and then spent the night polishing/waxing. I've gotta say I have never seen a car look so good!!! Its probably looking shinier than the day it rolled out of the Nissan factory in japan!! Cheers
