side by side HKS copy fmic installed, coolant temps too hot...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by r33k, Feb 9, 2009.

  1. maTTz

    maTTz 500 Club


    Dude, that is the very first thing that you should do. I'll go over the physics briefly here:
    The air has 2 choices, it can go through your FMIC then under your radiator and under your car
    OR
    It can go through your FMIC then through your radiator then under your car

    One of those paths is a lot more restrictive than the other and you have nothing to force it to take the restrictive path. Air doesn't want to flow into a high pressure region, it likes to take the low pressure option.
     
  2. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    yes, but why do temps climb with just idling? Must have an air pocket due to my damn heater being stuck closed.

    I am going to make the under bumper guide. I have a 2K bar fitted so will borrow some aluminium from work (lol)
     
  3. IB

    IB ?????

    Maybe your fan clutch decided to die at the same time? You can use the simple plastic ruler test to confirm or deny.

    Did you fit the fan shroud to the new radiator?
     
  4. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    top and bottom shrouds are on...

    ruler test? hmm..
     
  5. mafi-zed

    mafi-zed the resident hoon

    fit the stock radiator backk in and see if helps.. are you positive you bleed the system free of any air?
     
  6. Vizard

    Vizard Active Member

    i dont run any under front bar shrouds,i dont even have the bottom half of the radiator fan shroud, the only times i get high temps ( 95+ ) is when ive got the air con on and its at least 40 degrees outside.

    ide say your problem lies elsewhere, also temps climbing when car idling is normal isnt it? since theres no airflow like when you are driving ? as long as its not going 20 degrees higher.
     
  7. wassaw7

    wassaw7 New Member

    Funny this. I have a bigmofo FMIC which basically blocks off the radiator. The radiator is a PZP 56mm. I have no undertray but do have a vented nose panel. My running temps this summer have hovered around 79 - 83 deg. Only ever rose from that when using air con on really hot day, even then, only went up to about 89 - 91 deg. Maybe you have an air pocket, pinched hose or some other blockage?
     
  8. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    Just done the 'ruler test' but with a nice soft bendy stick from the closest bush (I did a 571CKY!!!), the fan pushes the stick out of the way.

    Like i said earlier, the heater is stuck closed. Will not open when heater turned on or via forcing it in conzult. Due to this i 'think' i may have an air pocket... I have just been to 'el supercrapo' and bought the heater bypass hose. Will do it when the car cools down...
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2009
  9. Baron

    Baron Active Member

    If you have the time, try putting the stock intercoolers back in and watch the difference. You've seen mine, and it regularly, when worked hard, hot day, air on, runs to 100, not concerned, because thats normal ( but I still would have put side mounts on if they were available at the time):cool:
     
  10. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    Supports my theory Vic: FMIC creates an air-dam and reduces flow to the rad.
    90C is not too bad Richard although undertray, vented bonnet, nose panel etc all help if cooling system is otherwise 100%.
    My Zed always runs at 90 - 95C in current ambient temps. Not worried.
     
  11. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    yes it was a hot day today...

    I am still going to do the heater bypass, and go from there. After i've done the bypass i'll remove the nose and see if it affects temps, Cheers
     
  12. rollin

    rollin First 9

    Yeah there is no doubt that a FMIC reduces airflow to the radiator, but can be overcome ducted properly like my highly publicised attempt lol.
     
  13. IB

    IB ?????

    Ruler test explained in zcar91's post on cooling.
     
  14. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    cheers mate i read it, and did it... but I call the way i did it, the 'Twig test' [TM]
     
  15. rollin

    rollin First 9

    Any relation to this guy rick? :p

    [​IMG]
     
  16. K-zed

    K-zed Secret Squirrel

    6" twig no substitute for a 12" ruler. ;)
     
  17. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    Actually it was a branch... about 36" rob :cool:
     
  18. Cam

    Cam ****

    I'm assuming the ruler test is for checking that the clutch is engaged for the fan to blow air against the ruler? :confused:
    If you're testing that the clutch is engaged then just give it a rev, if you don't hear fan noise then it isn't working. Obviously it has to be running above normal operating temp for it to engage.
    Same thing we did with Fate's dodgy new clutch. Got up over 100 and still nothing. Ran water over the radiator and dropped the temp back down and started the test over again, no change. OEM clutch, fan noise = working clutch = no more over heating.
    Why hunt around for a ruler when you can use your senses? :rolleyes:

    For those who are deaf or too numb to feel the wind off it, just grab the fan. If you severly injure yourself trying to fight the clutch against the engine, then it's working. :p Or a safer approach would be the ruler test, (as I understand it).
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2009
  19. r33k

    r33k 'I reek of Englishness'

    Good point!when i rev the engine yes, the fan kicks in and gets noisy. But over a certain rpm the fan seems to go quieter? not sure if this is correct. Maybe my super common sense powers are working again...
     
  20. IB

    IB ?????

    You assume wrong, try reading the supplied link.:whatever:
     

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