oh yeah, and paint your bumpers, skirts etc separately and fit them after spraying the car. id leave all the panels on if you're respraying the same colour, and just make sure you tape up all the trims well. but if you're going a different colour, and you have the time and know how- take the panels off. ive sprayed a car a different colour before without removing all the panels, and it still came up good - up to you
Yeah I had read somewhere that you mentioned fuel will strip acrylic..has anyone else had issues with this? Also, what grade of wet/dry sandpaper should I commence rubbing back with? And what about the urethane kit - what do I do there?
you take it to a pro to do it urethane is prepped and sprayed totally different,you need to fill the low spots ,add flex to the paint,too much and the paint wont settle properly and look shit,not enough,it will just crack and flake off and it goes on .......... you dont just spray urethane stuff,it comes out of the moulds not perfect,you cant see that now probably,but you will when its been sprayed if i was you guys,i would go seek some professional advice on these things or it is going to bite you on the arse big time ,it will make the difference between a nice looking paint job from a distance,or a top job close up which is what you should be after
Yeah and eurethane stuff is covered in mould release which is basically pure silicone, its a nitemare to prep and paint
Question...... why have you chosen acrylic ???? 2pak aint that much deared The urathane bar: Take it to a panel shop and get them to do the prep work as far as the priming goes..... do a pre-fit before it goes to the shop and MAKE SURE it all lines up FIRST ! Are you doing a full respray or just coloring in the kit to match the rest of the car ???? As for the skirts and other fiberglass parts: I'll asume they are in Gelcoat.... in which case use 125grit dry paper ( miter10 does it long lengths , you'll need about 2 metres ), rough the bejesus out of the gelcoat untill its well 'scratched up'..... this will help the primer stick really well. prime them OFF the car and the first coat should be as heavy as you can make it ( minus dribbles ) I perfer Urthane over Sikaflex .... (personal choice here ) I've posted up before on how to fit em so a search of my posts should bring it up for you .... short version: place the skirt onto the car and check for alignment. sand off as required to get as close a fit as posiable to the body Wipe existing paint work down with thinners and the inner side of the skirts ( this helps the Urth/Sika stick ) Any sections that are springing away from the body can be pulled into place using a 1/16th self tapping screw ( drill a pilot hole first tho ) add as many screws as needed to get the skirt fitting 100% ( I used 3 screws per skirt)..... TIP: bulldog clips work well in the wheel arch areas add urthane / sikaflex to the SKIRT along the main joining line that is visiable..... add large dollops to central areas DONT SEAL THE SKIRTS OFF .... leave the edge closest to the sill seam OPEN .... large dollops about 300mm apart are excelent along this joint. ( this way water can get out and drying can happen, if you seal it up water WILL get in...... & so will the RUST !! ) place the skirt onto the car, put the screws in till its sitting right..... walk away for 48hours .... glue drying time ! 48 hours later.... remove the screws, insert Urth/sika into the screw holes and allow em to dry 48hrs later.... sand back the areas around the screw holes and bog up any distortion and holes sand and re-bog as needed (180 paper ) Re-prime it .... again a heavy coat is better. block back using 180 and re-prime the whole skirt Once you have a good finished prime coat and your confident you wont rub it through.... sand it back with 400grit dry paper. Its now ready for color Skirts, & rear valance should be color painted ON the car.... your after a seamless join here and doing em off the car WONT give you a perfect seamless join..... I challenge anyone to spot my joins !! Front clip, & rear wing CAN be done OFF the car and this also allows a much easier job when getting the gun into all those nooks and crannies Door fillers..... depends on the fit... if they fit good then off the car, if they dont fit so good then use the screw trick and do em ON the car. A gravity feed spraygun thats capable of doing the entire job will set you back about $100, ( mine was $99 ) WET rub paper: this is used ONLY on the clear coat when blocking it back for a dead flat finish, then you buff ( polish) the flat surface back to a brilliant shine..... hence the name "cut & polish" DO NOT USE WET PAPER ON PRIMER PRIMER LOVES WATER AND WILL SOAK IT UP..... stuffing your new color and clear coat NOTE: If your going acrylic paint..... remember to get acrylic thinners and acrylic primer and tell the bodyshop thats priming your front clip that it will be painted acrylic. Inter mixing paint types is disastorous... Acrylic does NOT play well with others !!!! Kingy p/s PM me your mobile number and I'll snap a few pick up to you of the basic gear you'll need...... you can post the pics here if you like for others and future users
Ok..that scares me now..I have had experience with normal panels but not urethane..thinking this through even more seriously now.. I chose Acrylic as it is suppose to be easier to work with, a friend has painted his car in acrylic and it looks good and the fact that 2pac is a hazard and I wont be able to do it myself that way.. Well it's not just the front bar that's urethane, it's the skirts and the rear (which is already painted)..I'm now considering getting the pros to do it ... As mentioned earlier I am planning on doing a full respray..I'll PM you my mobile number..but I dunno about the painting side of it now.. Been talking to Craig on MSN and we are now considering installing all of the kit and then taking it to a couple of shops and getting a quote.. I had previously been quoted $9000 for a complete respray, welding the holes, installing the body kit and fixing the dings/dents and rust.. and another shop quoted me ~$2500 for matching certain areas which needed painting, welding the holes, installing the body kit and fixing the dings/dents and rust.. So I figured if we installed the kit ourselves and got ausdent out to fix the dints..then see what price I would be looking at..if I took it back to this place which was gonna charge me ~$2500 and took it to another place where Craig knows the owner..
shop around rene....you can get a good spray with kit installed for 6k and that is for a pretty good job. it all comes down to how much you want to spend. you can spend from anywhere between 3-10+ heaps more. 6-7k will get you a very decent paint though
Update: Installation of the front bar.. Last night Craig and I installed the front bar...and was it a frigging hot night, it was horrible started at 1830hrs and finished at 2430hrs..so here are some pics.. The removal of the front bar: A photo of how happy I was when I removed my front bar all by myself - minus disconnecting the foglights (those little bastards are jammed in too tight for my likings) The fun part of drilling holes and getting it to line up properly ..and now the finished job..such a beast Being a urethane genuine kit, one would assume there wouldn't be any fitment issues - one was wrong..didn't line up perfectly, but might have a bit more of a fiddle..
most of our zeds have been smashed at some stage which means things dont totally line up even with stillen stuff heres a tip ren,having fitted all this urethane stuff on both LOWZX and ZXTCY myself ,leave the front bar out in the sun so it gets flexible,then try and fit it,you should be able to get a better fit than that
I've fitted a couple of Stiilen Bars Renee and they have all required a little bit of "finessing" to get lined up perfectly. You may also have to loosen the guards along to upper edge to get them to 100%.
PM replied too Best option: Get the parts Primed profesionally .... Off the car !!! Then fit it yourself ( you'll do a better job than most shops will ) do the bulk sanding back of the rest of the car yourself Then.... take it to a shop just to get the bog work & final sanding/re-priming done and the color applied You've "seen" how long it took just to do the front bar, and it still needs tweaking !!!... add the time for the skirts aswell and a shop will be rubbing its greedy hands... The more of the "labor" work you do yourself WILL be a huge saving in the longrun.... Kingy
agreed...... and the hotter the day the better ! For minor tweaking.... use a heat gun to warm up the area that needs massaging to fit 100%
Better talk to your paint shop first, some of them wont put their name to a paint job that they didnt do the prep on.
Just spraying the full exterior, no engine or door jams.. Is there much work to install the side skirts? Because Craig was gonna do this last night but thought it didn't fit very flush..are you able to give us a few pointers..Cause I wanna get all the kit on so all we gotta do is take it to a shop and say we want a full exterior respray as is + welding the boot holes.. The rear spoiler is off, Craig and Ben managed this last night while I was at work..and it took 3hrs, but that included removing all the panels under the hatch, removing the 3rd brake light and the spoiler..but I thought that was pretty good.. Here are some photos: What I think of my spoiler... Check out how bad the rust is..I thought it was gonna be pretty bad.. I think the Brazilian suits my zed.. ..and this was the worst rusted area..pretty happy with that considering the state of the spoiler
something tells me you don't like your spoiler lol how did they find removing the spoiler? was it hard? or just time consuming?
Well Craig said it wasn't that bad..said he bent one side up, then bent the other side up and then used both sides to try and pull the middle part off..but I think my glue was already a bit loose..so that might have helped..
