Project Pics Take 2

Knocked over another little job.

I'm using one of the BDE oil filter relocation blocks to make a little more room for the turbs, and also to help the filter clear the larger oil pan.

Downside of that is now I need somewhere to put the filter. I'm using an Aeroflow thermostatic filter block, that conventiently has room for a combination temperature and pressure sensor. I used the raceworks sensor as 1) it has a DTM connection so I'll be able to boot the connector on the harness side for proper racecar things 2) it doesn't hurt that I'm a raceworks dealer...

Anyway ended up settling on the nose cone for the filter location. Easy access, won't make a mess when I change it, room for the sensor.

Had the local engineering shop weld a bracket onto the upright for me.



A few coats of paint. Autolac have a pretty good product which is essentially two pack in a can. Costs a bit more but matches well.



And installed with a Raceworks lifetime oil filter.



So with the location of the Oil Pressure & Temp Sensor finalised I can map out the last little bit of EFI harness. Oh and no consider I've removed the sub fan, the AC condensor, the factory airbox, etc, I'm not concerned about putting the filter in front of the radiator.

 

Just going to run the standard clutch fan - it seems pretty hard to beat in terms of airflow.

I've got those two little fans on the oil cooler as they helped with stop/start driving with the previous iteration of the build - might have to look into a simlar relay setup although the current draw on the smaller fans is next to nothing by comparisson to the larger ones. 3A from memory although I'm not sure about the inrush current.

 

Nice work! Cheaper than a whole pedal!! Love it

 

Yes I will get a few mounts cut at once and see if there is interest in them.

The mount is easy to produce but converting to true DBW is not a small undertaking - not many ECUs can drive two throttle bodies and the work involved on the wiring and power supply side of thing is substantial. But short answer yes.

 

Mocked up harness finished and laid out on my living room floor for measuring.

The furthest point from the firewall is for the IAT sensor which is up near the intercooler. Good spot for the sensor as it won't heat soak, not so good for tidy wiring but it'll all be OK once it's in the car.



And drawn up ready to start cutting some wires at last....

 

Thanks for the generous feedback. I'm planning to do a concentric lay on this one although I'm not really sure how that's going to come together - I'm comfortable with the process etc but the layout of the harness doesn't really have a central trunk to work with in the same way it would following more of an OE layout.

At the moment I'm waiting on a big big box of tefzel and an A/S connector and I'll start the actual assembly... will keep the chipboard suggestion in mind!

 

Box of supplies arrived yesterday.

About 700 feet of spec 55 wire, couple of auto sport connectors, boots, kevlar lacing cord, kapton tape, shield splices, and an ident kit.

Time to get to work...

 

Couple of pics of the finished DBW adapter. I'm very happy with how this came out.

 

Unfortunately having a job, a reasonably busy business, a house, wife, being an adult... doesn't leave a lot of time for project cars! But I've been trying to make a bit of headway on the wiring side of things lately and just chip away at it a couple of nights a week.

I can't overstate the amount of time spent on researching part numbers, tools, finding somewhere that actually has stock etc etc. This all goe on the documentation files that I have, that I'll post one day when I'm satisfied that it's actually "finished". Overall the wiring side of things isn't particularly user friendly at this level; you really need to spend a lot of time with parts catalogues to make sure you know what you're getting. And even then you'll find the same part referred to with different designations (either the manufactuer part number, the supplier part number which is usually a variation on the manufacturer part number, or the millitary designation). Sure, you can jump online and order a connector kit online from your favourite Chinese supplier, but there's no guarantee that the terminals and wire seals for example are going to match the wire size that you've chosen for your build. And then there's tooling.... again there are generic chinese copy tools, then mid level generic tools from Sargent etc, and at the other end you've got application specific tooling from Rennsteig and DMC etc.

But I digress! Again I'll post the documentation I've put together at some stage which has the part numbers, suppliers, tooling etc that I've used along the way.

Two business that are quite user friendly are Race Spec and Corsa Technic - well worth a look if you're interested in heading down this path.

I'm more or less following the steps taught in the HP Academy Practical Wiring - Profesisonal Motorsport course. Again, well worth a look. None of this stuff is "cheap", but I'd consider the content and quality of constructioni to be comparable to a Tafe certificate. I'm not a stranger to wiring repairs and maintenance, and in a previous career had an auto electrical license, and I can honestly say I've learnt a heap. Again, I digress!

So at the moment I'm working through the wire prep stage. Which basically consists of generating your cut list (with a spreadsheet and a calculator, no fancy programs here!), cutting the wires, and tagging them with heat shrink ident tags. The wires I'm using are MIL 22759/32-20 and MIL22759-32-22 - which is the military desgination for TE connectivity spec 55 manufacturer part number 5A0111. All of the numbers essentially refer to manuracturing standards.





The tags loosely correspond to MIL-Std 681, which identifies each tagged colour combination as a number, which in turn corresponds to a position in the bulkhead connector. I say loosely as my wire colours don't match the MIL std (I just don't need to have so many different 100ft reels hanging around...), so position 1 in my connector corresponds with the colour combination for #10 in the Mil Std. The idea here is that any wire can easily be identified by it's funciton once they're all pinned into the connector.

Then we go ahead and make up the bulkhead splices. These are the splices for things like the 8v supply for the Cam and Crank sensors that are powered by a single pin from the ECU, but need to be split out to two different connectors in the harness for the different sensors. This also helps to keep the pin count down at the bulkhead.

I'm using TE conncetivity nickel plated stub splices. These need precise measurements and precise crimping, so it's a good excuse to spend more money on tools. I had hate to think of the cost per crimp at this stage haha.






Happy with the result, though! I can't finish this stage as the next size up that were due to be delivered 13/2 are still on backorder with the manufacturer (refer to my comments above....) but hey at least we're getting somewhere. The splices will get sealed with some Raychem SCL, which is a rigid epoxy-lined heat shrink. TE do make a boot specifically for these splices, but I was having a hard time finding them in stock at a reasonable price available to purhcase in small quantities, so the SCL will do just fine (and still provide a motorsport quality seal).

So there we go, progress of a sort!

 

Ha yeah it was definitely faster in my 20s paying somebody else to do it lol.

Truth be told I think I get more enjoyment doing the job than driving the car, so this works haha.

At the moment it's just hanging out until April and then I'll be back into it (assuming TE have the splices back in stock). I could use an alternative splice, but another few weeks in the scheme of things isn't that much and then it's done the way I want it.