What are you trying to achieve? I'm guessing the TT block is damaged? If you swap all of the oil system over it will be fine but mixing and matching will give different results because of the way the TT cooler system works. TT has a stiffer spring in the oil pump regulator (to sump) so that more pressure reaches the relief valve in the tree (pre-filter) which feeds into the cooler which returns via a restrictor to the sump. This is why the TT needs to have the filter bypass at the filter end of the tree not at the block. The two best set-ups for a TT would be either all standard TT gear or all NA gear with a full flow oil cooler system with thermostat . (expect to pay ~$800+)
A full flow system is only around $400 usd. I've read on the us forums of cases where guys na's have had the ball bearings in the block come loose, never heard of that happening with the ball bearings in the tree though. I was hoping to run an accusump to the stock location for the us oil pressure sensor on the tree but I'm assuming I would need the check valves to be in the tree to stop the oil filter from going through the filter backwards. Does anybody know if the pressure sensor reading in the tree is taken before or after the filter?
The z1 full flow kit blocks off the oem oil cooler with a bolt or something like that. So essentially if the filter blocks up it can't open the bypass valve to flow all the oil through the cooler because you've got a bolt in it.
Whats all the baloney about? If its an NA block, just run it as it is. Dont swap anything. My Ute Of Death with a VG30det does not have any tree rubbish at all. The filter screws straight onto the block from the side. I dont use an oil cooler nor do i need one. If you felt the need to run oil cooler, and that would only be the case if your oil temps consistently exceeded 110Deg. C, then use a cheap aluminium sandwich plate, a couple of -10/12 hoses and a couple of rows oil cooler out front. if it were mine and I fel the urge to run useless coolers, then spend an extra few bucks for a simple oil temp thermostat.... second thoughts and better still, a thermostated sandwich plate. No need to waste hard earned money on bullshit expensive funky coloured AN fittings and braided hosed wank. Just use brass hosetails, oil pressure line from Enzed and hoseclamps. Why does it have to be so damned hard? E
Lots of opinions here but Fists has hit the nail on the head. Yes the TT block needs to be re bored. I have done the heads and matched the ports on the intakes and exhausts manifolds. My objective is to build a slightly warm street engine (remember I have an auto box) I have a few goodies such as bigger turbo's, single dumps, larger injectors, larger intercooler and a few other common upgrades. I do have the original TT block that had a massive overheat which cracked both heads, but I am reticent to use that as it is probably stuffed. All I want to do is build an engine with a solid bottom end and be reliable enough to with stand a bit of a work out. I have 3 engines 1 NA and 2 TT's. The NA (grade 1) had some overheating problems and I am a bit sus about it. 1 TT that has been cooked and the one that I have found pitting in the bore of No 4 cylinder after cleaning it up with a hone. Yes I could re bore it but I have already brought all the parts to rebuild a std grade 2 motor. So the bottom line is where to from here?
I assume your reply is for me The passage for the oil cooler on the TT oil tree is a bleed off from the oil filter, it's not a separate passage, it simply bleeds oil off to the cooler once pressure is high enough to open the valve. So blocking this off simply forces all oil through the filter. So whether you screw a filter on the end of the oil tree, or a sandwich plate, or a relocating fitting, if you're not modifying the bypass valves they'll work exactly the same regardless.
Actually thinking about it there are some possible implications in doing this. By blocking off the passage to the factory oil cooler, you're increasing the peak oil pressure through the filter. So either one of two things will happen; a: possibly too much oil pressure to the filter causing a filter failure. b: the bypass valves in the oil tree are open more often. I'm guessing b as this is what it's designed to do, relieve pressure on the filter by opening the bypass valves to allow some oil to simply circulate straight back into the engine unfiltered. Which is essentially what the factory oil cooler setup does anyway right. So it's all good right? Just thinking out loud fellas :br:
I guess if you don't go speedflow it will be cheaper than what I ended up with (took a couple of attempts to make something that fits) Filter tree port for pressure sender is post-filter
Factory cooler returns to the sump, not into the engine. I can't recall opening pressures for the pump regulator or filter relief but the cooler valve is supposed to open at about 50psi (from the service manual) if that helps anyone
I'm not going to be any use for picking which block is best but so long as you keep whichever oil kit you want together it should be fine. For the oil pump regulator you just have to change the spring while the sump is off, have a look at the service manual if you can't find it
For reference I couldn't get a Mocal thermostated sandwich plate to fit off the standard tree due to all of the stuff, a sandwich plate plus an inline thermostat should fit ok but I'm not 100% on that. I ended up going bottom exit take off plate and filter relocation to the front beside the oil cooler. Its so damn hard because there's no damn room in this particular area of the Z
Should or does? Because of bolt holding the termo spring on fouling on the block I couldn't point the plate in a direction so that I could get the line fittings on. It might work if you use right angle 1/2"BSP fittings but I didn't want to get to the end and realise I had too much pressure drop across the system
I've seen pics on them fitted but big fitted one myself... Planning to use one when I fit larger aftermarket sump. Were you using the "slimline" plate or standard?
This was on Facebook, I've been trying to find it again... Mocal are distributed by Motorsport connections http://www.mscn.com.au/ maybe hit them up?
That's where I got mine, even the mocal website doesn't mention a slimline version of the thermostat sandwich plate. If you have low profile engine mounts you might be able to go straight forward otherwise you can use a normal side exit plus an external thermostat. Actually looking at the mscn site again the transdapt thermostat sandwich plate would probably avoid the issue I had, may make others though
She didn't say she was your daughter !! =O Sorry But oh god the blingy wheels what was I thinking Back to oil trees and blocks
