Yea but more information needed. What model / design was it? Was he running a rich tune? I've seen some of the ones where the butterfly valve is deep in the middle of the muffler, typically used on the dual tip designs. I can possibly see those clogging up with time, but the one I have looks too simple to just 'clog up'. Valve is right at the end and is identical in design as the butterfly valve on the Throttle Bodies. Anyhow, like I said, I'm content to take the risk. We'll see. MoulaZX
Can't remember exactly what happened to it he was to lazy to fix it. Think it was electrical related I'll ask him.
Also really don't recommend them, mate had them on his RX7 sounded really tinny and lost the deep 'brap brap' rotor sound on idle. On full noise it just sounded like a integra with an external gate lol! Go the HKS exhaust or Apexi 'cannons' much better than any of that Varex stuff. Your paying for the function of changing exhaust volume, when this simply can be controlled with your right foot. Also go mild steel - I have full stainless right through if I could do it again mild steel FTW. Much better in regards to heat, quieter in car and deeper exhaust note... only reason I did stainless was for some bling and it was no difference in price.
This is kinda what I mean, there is no 300ZX experience. As for RX7s I doubt they have similar exhaust frequency and resonance as a VG30DETT. With the flap open, it is exactly like a straight through cannon. I have had cannons before and I quite liked it, except that it droned. And controlled with right foot? No it can't, even when coasting on the freeway, how many Zeds drone or just sound too loud even when sitting on ~3KRPM @ 110km/h? or 80km/h? As for the SS to Mild-steel, you're the first I've ever heard to be in favour for Mild for sound / noise quality / exhaust note. More information? MoulaZX
always issues with varex... my mates run them, one runs it with a bee-r on his R31... absolutely gives it a hammering... its fine... then there is my mate with a S15 all straight through 3 inch with a varex cannon tip... treats it like shit... sounds like a POS honda... all depends on the car and how you maintain it
Stainless steel benefits: -out last you and me both -bling... Mild steel pipes are thicker, much less drone/resonance in car, better in regards to heat. In regards to exhaust note, it always has a deeper note, stainless mufflers definitely, though I would go for mild pipes.
We'll see. And again, the issue is outlined, who here as actually heard it on a VG30DETT? Or better yet, heard my specific model on a VG30DETT? Theres too many combinations of different Engines / Engine Types (Rotary, Inline 6, Inline 4) and different models of Varex Exhausts. Each different combination came with a different experience and different note. I guess you all, me included, will soon find out. MoulaZX
Whether its fit to a Z32 or RX7 has no bearing on the reliability of the butterfly assembly! Also the rear muffler will affect note and DBA but will have minimal (if any) effect on resonance/drone. As for mild steel it will be quieter and radiate less heat compared to staino.
Hrm, point taken. I'll see when I'm there which is the thicker type and opt for that. My original decision was based off wanting the best note / sound quality, not price or durability. MoulaZX
Not contesting the durability in that scenario, only the sound quality. And I swapped out the generic short drum cannons I had before I went for the dual tipped Magnaflows only because of drone, and it helped, significantly actually... And yea, I'm leaning towards Mild Steel now. MoulaZX
Love the sound of my full stainless exhaust with the Magnaflow mufflers and dual tips. You just can't beat it IMHO. Looks so much better when ppl get down on their hands and knees and want to look under your car at shows too.
What he said! Loving the build, parts used and progress reports! Cant wait to see the dyno! Keep it up dude!
Thanks for the support guys. Like I mentioned before, it is very much appreciated. Not proud to admit, I was inches away from taking a sledge hammer to her a couple of times in the last few weeks. The latest headache is trying to get a hold of replacement Fenders. I had (ex?) member here lined up with a pair of Fenders already primered and ready for paint but trying to get a hold of the guy is a f'in nightmare. First initial contact was great, replied to sms' almost instantly and phone conversations were good, but in the past month and a bit, phone just rings out and not a single sms! The one time I managed to get a hold of him about 2 weeks ago on the phone he tells me none of my other calls have gone through... And I can't re-use my old ones as they're broken and rusted as you can see from a few pictures somewhere in an update. MoulaZX
Wow!!! Emile, this is one fabulous write-up!!! I just don't get on here very often and regret missing this thread from it's beginning. I read the last 8 pages though and if the first 7 are similar, I'll have to back and read them up later as well. Amazing stuff here!! I'd love to hear how the 2.5" turbo piping has worked out for you and your plans on the turbo to IC piping as well. *subscribed*
Update: Test Fitting Redressed Harness + Other Stuff So spent the last few hours replacing my old screwed connectors. Coil Packs, AAC, FICD, CTS, Air Reg and I've already replaced my Injector plugs with new ones that came with my Injectors. Plenum is not bolted on, its just sitting over the top while I wanted to replace worn connectors and test fit the Re-dressed Harness. Few things I got done today & yesterday: - Rotors put back on, Brake Callipers rebuilt & reinstalled also all Brake lines connected back up again (pretty much done here, tyres could be put on and thats it for the wheel well areas) - Power Steering Harness run down and and all connected up - Clutch Line + Slave Cylinder installed (also finally got around to putting on the new dust boot on the Fork) - AC Compressor, Alternator & PS Pump installed and Belts all tensioned - Alternator + Gearbox Harness run through and all connected up - Plenum finally all put back together and just waiting to be dropped onto Engine - New replacement Connectors finally installed - Redressed EFI test fit done Also some other random stuff I thought I'd throw up here as well. Love this Umbrella, sun is enough to drill a hole into your skull without it. Yea I know, I haven't done anything to the Throttle Cable Cover, I'm thinking about buying the Stainless Steel one. I was just using it to test fit the EFI Harness and make sure the redressed harness still can manoeuvre and fit correctly. Few minor modifications later, and looks like it will still fit nice and snug. The reason my Plenum isn't on yet... one bastard Rocker Cover just won't come out right. Have to do it over for the 3rd time now. Old vs New Coil Pack plugs New AAC & FICD plugs On this note, if you plan to replace your plugs with new ones, you'll need to make some minor modification to the connector on the AAC, FICD or whatever. The OEM plugs have little offset grooves on the male and female plugs to help you connect them correctly, however the universal replacement plugs do not. You will have to chip / break away the bit of offset plastic on the original connectors. Be sure to label the plugs clearly because the universal ones are all the same and once the offset plastic on the OEM connectors are taken off, its very easy to connect the plugs incorrectly! Mmmm corrosion... (you can see the offset thing I was talking about in this one, look at the top of the plugs on the right) New Fuel, Oil & Vac hoses yet to go on and a lot of new clamps This was a particular headache. No one has really given a guide on how to go from running a TT pump /w HICAS & TT Reservoir to a NA Pump + Reservoir. I'll do a properly write up later but this was the headache I had to solve yesterday. Turns out I couldn't run my TT Pulley (AMS) on the NA Pump (after finding out you need an NA bracket for the NA Pump ). The offset on the Pulley will not have the belt lining up correctly and out by as much as 10mm. Even with the Pulley put on in the opposite direction, the offset is still about 5mm. Luckily I managed to pick up a broken NA Pump from a guy near by which still had the OEM NA Pulley. Found that even with the NA Pulley, the belt still doesn't look 100% lined up, I would guess maybe 2-3mm but looks extremely close and I'm happy with that. On top of this, the NA Pulley is for a 3 tooth belt, not 4 like the TT. So I had to buy a new belt, and leave one tooth empty on the Crank Pulley. I'm going to venture a guess at this stage the reason for the complications are I'm running a TT Crank Pulley (AMS Underdrive one to be exact) and it could very well be the NA Crank Pulleys are a little different. This was also interesting. Originally I was going to use the original NA PS Fluid Feed Inlet. But as it turns out (my Dad suggested this so am not taking credit for this one) we had a spare CA18DE PS pump off an EXA laying around and the flange fitting is exactly the same as the VG30DE(TT) pumps. The orientation of the Fitting is different as you'll see and seemed to make more sense using this new Fitting. You can see the difference between OEM NA one and the CA18DE one fitted in the first picture. Got my Oils all lined up, not very long till it's time to put them in and crank away... MoulaZX
Aww shucks! I was a little more thorough in the beginning, the more recent posts are a bit more frantic because it's been over 3 long months of often spending 12+ hour days + nights taking my time on my own so getting a little anxious to be done with it, hell, even a few times coming back home from a 12 hour night shift at 8 in the morning only to get stuck into it for another 10 hours or so and finish up late into the night. And yep, will be documenting every thing I can so we can finally have some local Aussie data on the fabled 2.5" Intake Upgrade. Hell I even bought a Go Pro2 Camera that I'll be strapping onto the passenger seat to record early on after shes back on the road and then after shes properly tuned, haha! MoulaZX
Same oils here champ! I was soo buggered last night and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. On a brighter note my engine is now in!
Minor Update: Still working on it... So just one quick shot. Still working on it. Despite running into a whole mess of headaches recently that saw me almost set the bitch on fire... Right now, all that is left: - Finish modifying / fitting 2.5" Intake (such a PITA, had to cut some of the pipes, and open up some areas on Chassis, I'll post better pictures later) - Install Main Engine Ground (forgot to do this earlier... ) - Drop Plenum on - Fit Coilpacks - Fit Fuel Lines - Fit Vacuum Lines (including Boost Controller setup) - Fit 2nd BOV (have to wait till tomorrow, lost my bloody clamps for the 2nd one) - Put Oil in - Crank - ???? - Profit MoulaZX
