Yeah that's right, it's good for the future. But that will be after a rebuild which isn't on the cards at all thus far. 400hp and 18psi from stock internals is as far as i'm willing to push lol. Ben
some pretty good rwkw numbers there ben......what has been done? if u dont mind me asking, how much did it actually cost you to make it dual pods with everything..... yes it might not be worth it in terms of power, but from what i know i would rather have a slower car that sounds really good than a faster one that doesnt.....Past experience of my cats going out are to blame for that
Thanks mate!, but I was dissaponted with not hitting 300rwkw or 400rwhp. Very close though, I'm making a few little tweaks to the boost controller so maybe next saturday i'll be lucky. And luckily the car came with alot of stuff done to it from japan including: HKS 2530 turbos (GT28RS I think) HKS flywheel and twin plate clutch Abflug full 3 inch dual exhaust, very pretty, sounds amazing, but drones like a bitch on the freeway at 100. 105 however is sweet, funny that. Dual SBC boost controller Blitz I think, this is what is letting me down right now, about 17.5 psi seems to be it's limit, anything over that and it freaks out and really hurts power. So i'm sure the engine can do more but not with that boost controller. Its got 4 custom intake pipes, the ones that go to the throttle bodies etc, and a balance pipe between them, not sure how much this helps if any. It made 283kw with one of those blitz metal mesh pod filters in single pod setup. To fit the dual pods the cost breakdown was like this: 2x 2.5inch 30 degree angle alum bends $50 2x 2.5-3 inch silicon reducers $Can't remember less than $40 I think 2x pod filter adapters $40 2x Apexi power intake pods from fleet $180 odd Some small scrap sheet aluminum to make brakets etc $free And the biggest cost, but not really associated kinda, was the microtech ECU. I got it used with the dash display for $1000. I only include this in the list because using it's MAP sensor it allows you to get rid of the Air flow meter under the nose and makes fitting the dual pods much much easier. Like I said before i'm pretty happy with the setup overall, a little dissapointed for not making nice round numbers but I get over it pretty quickly once I go for a drive lol. I could spend $600 on a new boost controller and maybe push 20 psi, but I think thats just asking for trouble. Anyway I generally don't run the 17.5 pound on the street, it's only the nice number on the peice of paper that I wanted haha. But i'm restrained enough (most of the time) to not push my luck. I set it up for just under 12 psi and it made 250rwkw. So i'm happy with that to just drive around with most of the time. Sorry for the long reply, got carried away! Cheers Ben
From what I remember the DUAL SBC is limited to 17.5 psi even with dual solenoids. Get a Blitz ID-III . Something like 31psi limit. The Dual SBC is still going for $200 plus, so you could possibly sell it on the forum, and only be $300 out of pocket or so for a boost controller that suits your turbos more. Nengun has good prices. Alternatively, have you thought about water/meth injection? I've seen dyno's of over 600whp with HKS 2530s, and you could go quite a bit further without worrying about damaging them even without race fuel. :zlove:
sounds interesting........ I'm not sure how far I wanna go with it, I mean I like power as much as the next guy lol, but I still want a pretty reliable car that's not a chore to drive. Although it's getting that way, twin plate clutch will be tossed at the first oportunity!. I know the turbos should be good for more, I mean JP runs the equivilents and has 650 odd hp so far. My main concern is running any more boost with the stock internals. What does anyone think of an AVC-R? E-boost is supposed to be good but i've heard some bad things from dyno tuners about them mis-behaving is strange and wonderful ways.
