low woes alrighty so this post has been a fair while in the making, nothing too interesting just penning what I've had to do to my car to actually drive it as low as it is. when I first stanced it out I was running massive 5" body cats which sat 43mm from the road, which unfortunately meant on about 90% of speed bumps they scraped badly. two months of dailying the car (only two months I've ever driven it really) and they were smashed all the way through. here're my n*power front pipes, they're worn so thin you can bend the metal by touch (just) my cats, which lost a few mm of internals, melted the collapsed honeycomb so when I pulled them off, I had these lumps sitting in the pipes at the front, my FMIC is the lowest point. Fortunately, it has two unused metal mounting bungs on the underside. they're about 2cm long, I simply used to smash them into driveways all day long to find out what I could and couldn't get over with the zed. two weeks later and I'd got it downpacked, and I've lost 1cm of bung lol a few days ago I cut and raised the custom mountings we made up for the cooler (didn't have clearance in mind when we made them) which is great, but it means unfortunately that I had to chop the absolute shit out of my reo bar. to be honest I really really hate this. worked well, I gained about an inch of front clearance. and this is for shits and giggles... it's my hood release cable, running along the top of my driver's side fenderwell. I skinned it! hahaha cable tied it out of the way and now all is well again so in the next few weeks I'm going back to Castle Hill Exhaust with another brand new pair of cats. my current ones will be fine with a stitch up, but they're just too big for my application. they'll be chopping the flanges off the ends of my dumps, re welding them back on 2" higher up then making up some custom front pipes right up against the body and welding in the new 4" body cats. This will lift the whole system up away from the ground substantially, and giving me maybe 2" more ground clearance. which is massive! car should be totally drive able for the most part. -A
wank factor back on page 29 I got some gauges. it was like this: do I want 3 gauges? not really do I need 3 gauges? not really do I want 3 veilside gauges? YES anyway I got this from z center uk! pretty keen. going to be fun cutting out my dash. having trouble with the sandwich plate which is putting a stop in things. -A
Some tips for installing the gauge pod. Same gauge pod as mine. They look fantastic! It is quite fun cutting the dash in car... Lots of mess and when you turn your fan on the first time afterwards you met get a load of crap in your face The dash is relatively thick and there's a fair bit of clearance for the fan pipes, so don't be worried about cutting them if your using a small dremel cutting disk. Also it may need some persuasion to sit flush with the dash.
yeah im having a bit of trouble sitting mine flush. front end wants to stay up 5mm or so. im thinking about supergluing a small tab on the underside so i can pull it down with a screw or something. black sikaflex just wasnt helping unless i sat there and held it down in place for 30mins. Also they do look amazing. Got the gauges sitting in there now and I think its my favourite interior mod Gauges without some shitty mounting application that ruins the smoothness of an interior.
Have a go at bending the prongs on the back. Also on the underside of the dash there's a few ribs on the back that inherently get in the way which can also cause that. Try to file them down before moving the prong thingies. Another thing, Try and get a clamp to hold it down or put some weight on it to hold it down when you put the sikaflex on.
did yours foul on the air con piping too Robbo? Think I'll have to trim it and re-seal it so it doesn't leak.
minimalist radiator air guide This is something I've been planning for a while and finally finished today. Some of you may remember my old stickered up UAS air guide. It was one of the first things I bought for the car. I started the tuck and un bought it. In the same sense that I don't have cam gear covers or a throttle cover, I didn't want to just slap on a big cover to the engine bay. I like the crossmember wrapping around the front of the bay, but without a stock intake T-piece my BOV's are clearly visable through the gap that's left around the latch. The plan with the air guide was to cover up the hole and nothing more. Minimum covering up while maintaining complete functionality. So I bought one of these. They're available from Marcus @ Car Craze. Still covers too much. Making up a template: Working through different ideas: Worked out what I wanted, measured it up and made it all symmetrical and cut the piece: Done: The lines don't really come out too well on camera it would seem, but I'm very happy with it. Going to match my carbon fan shroud very well. Thought about painting it, but I hate the idea of colour matching it to the crossmember and making it look like I am trying to fool people into thinking it's all one piece. -A ps: it's interesting about the full width guides. The only purpose of an air guide is to stop air coming in through the mouth from going up through the latch hole. that's it. you could literally put freaking duct tape across that place and it'd work just as well as any of them.
Should hold onto that template man! Could be useful in future for others who are interested in doing the same.
Still got the template, no sense in throwing it out. Not sure if I'm going to keep it as is or shape it up some for some stronger lines. No ETA on UAS production Ryan Just fitted my new 28mm rear adapters. Hooolly crap. my Z32's coming back with some pumped stance!
this is just the first drop, wheels/fenders worked for old fitment. I'll be dropping it maybe 1.5cm and thinning the fender for clearance. yup
I thought it was. But it turns it was those ribs I was talking about. Sand them flat, bend the prongson the back then use clamps to hold it down until the sikaflex dries. Should sit fine then
That is a sexy bum! I have a further two questions for you: Roughly how many feet of fuel hose do you need to go from the fuel filter to the rail and back to the fuel filter location under the battery tray with the twin feed system? 6ft? Is there a reason you didn't relocate the PAS pot to either under the front bar or by the brake master cylinder if you have removed the smaller round clutch booster?
It took me a while to work out what you meant by PAS pot. Power assisted steering pot...? We called them them PS reservoirs lol. Yeah, it's going under the nose panel when I get to it. I've had higher priorities, and to be honest am not looking forward to the job. It's not going to be very fun I used existing hosing from under the battery tray to the back of the plenum... and about 2 meters (6 and 2/3 feet, call it 7 to be safe) of nylon hosing to do the twin feed. Attila's car, which we converted to twin feed two weeks ago, used about the same to get to the fuel filter in the stock location. Keep the questions coming!
