Nope, so long as there's a smooth flow down to the pump it's all the same. Right now though I'm honestly considering an electric power steering pump conversion.
Lol, yeah I get the same thing when I read threads on here. I have a TT with aftermarket rad and AC still plumbed in - do you happen to know if standard pipework can still be used to get around to the front under the bonnet catch? On yours it shouldn't be to big a deal should it? I've not researched it in depth but it seems the standard pipework will do it on an NA. I cut off the loom mount behind the driver headlight, the HICAS mount and the low down clutch pipe bracket the other day as im going short single braided, but when I put the grinder to the PAS pot mount I got through the paint and stopped lol. Need to know details before commitment How did you get your battery tray out and resecured? I drilled the spot welds a the back but the inner wing steel is so bloody thin the drill popped through nearly every time and left me with a load of holes that I have now filled, but I now need to weld a bracket at the back or each side for the battery tray to be bolted to, to keep it secure. As my Zed is TT with AC I see my only option for main fuse box relocation to be on the outside of the passenger side chassis arm or as you have it? I really wanted it to be on the inside of the passenger chassis arm but from what you mentioned before there won't be space. I've read a few posts before on the US sites about this and if the pot is moved to the top of the bar in front of the rad, just below the bonnet catch then there are no problems as it's still higher than the pump. Even facing down on a steep hill this doesn't seem to be a problem and as Australia has very few steep hills you'll be sweet
What would you take one from in the Aussie car market? I've never seen anyone actually got through with one, they seem to be to big and cumbersome to fit in the engine bay discreetly. Probably take a bit of stress off the motor going electric though
Bit all over the place with that post, talking about a few things but I'll try to answer what I think you were asking. My TT's never had air conditioning in the time I've owned it, but I think I know what it looks like - hard pipe coming up the driver's side from the front? Should be easy to fit the PS line in there, it runs underneath the boost pipes anyway. I never took my battery tray out. I unbolted the support bracket on the motor side. I don't see why AC would be that much of a problem with the fuse box relocation. Do what I did and find a way to fit it there Having to take off the bumper to change a fuse is a joke. I'm looking at the pump out of an Astra, I think it's 2nd generation. They don't require input from the ECU. Since the reservoir and pump are one unit, it can be placed literally anywhere in the car and so long as it's plumbed to the rack, will work. I'm thinking under the driver's side headlight... hmm. Little stress off the motor, bit of freed up torque yes. Get to sell my NA power steering conversion too, and wouldn't be hard to plumb in a cooler at the same time.
That's the one, its very do-able. Be warned though, its ****ing noisy. You can place the whole assembly in the original battery location.
That would defeat the purpose Just got off the phone with Eric @ A2Zed. He said with the engine running you can't hear it what so ever, and that the install is a piece of piss. I'm thinking under the driver's side headlight if I can fit it, otherwise in front of the rad. How noisy could they be, considering how quiet a stock astra is?
Noise is important to me, I don't want to hear it. I know when fitted to Astras it's hooked up to RPM and speed signals. I'll look into it.
Seen the conversion in erics car. Isnt loud at all. Faint whirring noise with ignition on, unable to be heard at all with engine running. Surely will be pointed out that this was in a 350chev conversion, but exhaust was a HKS SuperMegaphone at the time- kinda ironic with how quiet a system it is. If youre concerned about startup noise, surely the Nistune will allow a digital output for switching only once the engine is running.
Not concerned at all about whirring noise on start up - does that mean I'll have power steering with just ignition on? I don't know about you guys but I'm always needing to adjust my wheels with the engine off (usually pulling bumpers etc).
Yeah don't mind me, for some reason I thought yours was an NA when you mentioned you had your HID ballast under the headlight as you don't have sidemounts, even though I had just looked at your centre mount. Long hard day.... AC is a mix of rubber and solid pipe coming from the passenger side and going across the lower front bar and back. With the AC pump removed there is space to mount the fusebox on the inside of the chassis arm. Good location but I want to put mine back in. I'll just work it out when it's back together
fenderwork fridays There must be something going on with this. Especially since your pump isn't hooked up to RPM or speed. Different generations I suspect - what year was yours? I reckon you'll be able to make it fit with little issue. HID ballasts underneath the headlight is doable regardless of SMIC presence; they go between the gap above the chassis rail. Easy fit. doesn't scrub. -A
stancin' Gotta keep this thread going... Haven't been doing much work to the car, I've been pretty flat out with end of semested uni work. Re stanced the Z32. Here's how it sat previously: 18x9.5 +7 front, 19x10 +20 rear , ~3.7* camber on the rear, little fender work beyond rolling. You can clearly see the rears are sunken, which I wasn't happy with. Very recently Marcus @ Car Craze (member A-Bris-z) ordered his own set of VB3's and adapters to match. I swapped him a fair amount of information in exchange for him ordering a pair of spacers waayyyyy beyond his spec - to be swapped with a pair I already have. Conveniently then, I managed to pick up a brand new pair of custom adapters from Adaptec for just about nothing! Thanks a heap Marcus! Marcus received my 15mm front spacers. 18mm spacers previously on the back moved to the front. New 28mm spacers fitted to the rear Here's how they look bolted straight on, no adjustments to camber/fender: (no, that's not massive camber, approx 4* and camera on angle) This was a two part endevour - space the wheels and take out some camber. Which means fender work to make up the difference. I also dropped the rear a further 5mm. My faithful master craftsman tools came out: Driver's side completed: Flared successfully, a solid 15mm or so (need to measure it somehow). Came out great. Took out a fair whack of camber, hopefully down to under 3* now. After the flaring, I wound out the camber 'til the tyre was literally 1mm from the fender. To do this at home, the trick is to drop your car onto phone books. This means you can adjust the suspension at the height it will sit at, and the wheel will actually move about (slipping the pages of the book) while loaded up. While I was doing this last weekend my buddy was over in his mint '97 Soarer, one of only 120 late models manufactured in manual. He fitted his new Powered By Max coilovers... yes, that's the extent of his travel on the rear now. Below is an accurate representation of my fender gap. Done. Very happy. 18 x 9.5 +4 235/40/18 19 x 10 +10 265/30/19 Needs a touch more low on the front, but all my coils are maxed out. I'm looking into further suspension work at the moment: - UAS pivoting front upper control arms - CX Racing coilovers - Replacement sway bar bushings front and rear - Replacement end link bushes/adjustable end links front and rear - Front tie rod end spaces (bump steer and tyre wear reducers) - Adjustable rear castor rods - HICAS ball joint conversion All in good time. Car is still moving forward. Uni work is just getting the best of me right now. -A
I absolutely love updates to this thread, get excited when I see long posts with plenty of pictures. No matter how much the oldies hate the "stanced" look, credit should be given where it's due. It's well and truly due here. Well done man, really digging this thread.
