thanks guys! I'm bringing ideas to the table but i'm learning fast about why a lot of good ideas never end up making it to the market. we'll see what happens.
Good foot in the door experience never the less. Hopefully you'll take it an run with it. Take it a long way.
hey how you going ive read through your whole build and must i say its pretty epic, i was just wondering when you did your fuse box relocation what guage wires did you use to extend the loom? i far as i can see there all different sizes and should equal a fun job, or am i just right to assume that as long as the wire is thicker it should be right.*
Thanks Mr. Mod (don't actually know your name!) I am very hopeful. There were only 3 or so wires that had to be cut and shut for the OPS, and what gauge required I don't know off the top of my head. Nothing big or hard to find, I just matched it with what I had spare lying around.
battery relocation okay, update time. it's been a while, and this post is going to be a bit of a mess. because my car is a total mess. I had the z in my buddy Martin's (newz) garage the last 3 weeks, hoping to get the last of the off-the-road work done (battery relocation, sound system, injectors, nistune for the main headlines). Unfortunately, shortly after I dropped it off his work arrangements changed (out of his control) and we lost all our time to work on it. So the end of the 3 weeks came and the car was disassembled, with most of the sound system in, the battery in the boot, and little else Ended up loading it onto a flatbed with no interior, front end or plenum etc. whoop de do basil... on the other hand, it was then delivered to my NEW PLACE with a FLAT DRIVEWAY OMFG! anyway, since people have been busting my balls for this how-to here's the battery relocation. I don't know why people want these from me, I make it all up as I go along... The basic premise here is to extend the OEM positive and negative leads to the boot. I did this with three meters of two gauge wire and some crimp-on flange type things, all of which I got from Jaycar. The battery is a small 370 CCA unit from NRMA, they can come deliver you one for $153 anywhere in Australia. 3 year warranty on it too. Sealed, but not a dry cell so it still must be vertical. First step is to pull out the OEM positive lead. This goes from the positive terminal on the battery to the starter motor, splitting off at one point to plug into the loom to give power to everything else. I then grinded off the little bent end that went to the starter, and bent it 90*. This allowed for me to bolt it on in a different direction and reroute it. I then ran it into the driver's side fenderwell. There're a few flanges on the underside of the chassis rail there (not sure what they were once used for) which meant I could securely cable tie it. I cut off the positive terminal and smashed on a flange thing. OEM heat shielding and conduit was maintained. I did the same with the new 2 gauge cable and bolted them together with a 10mm combo. I would've greatly preferred a simple big crimp together with no nut and bolt, but this is all they had. Rubbing is a very big potential issue here, so I used plenty of heat shrink and then some insulation tape for good measure. I then ran it through to the interior via the grommet the loom runs through. It comes out in a difficult to reach spot near the pedals. Once through, I ran it along the driver's side kick panel. This was deliberate as we ran all new speaker wire underneath the center console to keep interference from being a factor. The driver's negative side was the same simple task. Pulled the OEM lead down out of sight (still leaving it bolted to the engine/box), cut off the terminal and hammered on a crimp. Keeping the lead away from the passenger side dump pipe was an issue. I took out a bellhousing bolt, put an eyelet through it and used it as a point to zip tie to maintain an inch or two of clearance. The negative was attached to an existing aftermarket amp power cable, which ran through the fenderwell to the boot. The battery was put in the passenger side of the boot for weight distribution and cosmetic reasons. Once boxed up, it'll balance the space used on the other side by the ABS unit. I'm incorporating the battery box into a corner sub box which is currently in the works. Very conveniently, the metal hollow between the shock towers allowed for the perfect place to cross the cable to the other side while still keeping it away from the speaker wires. Baller. so there you have it. I ran a second earth from the battery to the boot too, couldn't hurt. Multimeter approved with 12.56 volts at the terminal and 12.56 volts at the starter motor. car runs questions, concerns, comments, shoot. -A
is that amp cable your using... would recommend using some cable with a HD outer sheath. or run a fuse/breaker at your battery
Why did you need to run an earth cable through as well? Would it not work earthing the battery to the strut tower or somewhere similar and then earthing the engine/gearbox up front?
I don't think it's strictly necessary, but it can't hurt. In my case I already had an aftermarket 2 gauge amp power cable going from the battery tray to the boot that was very little trouble at all to crimp on to. No longer required with the battery in the boot anyway.
You did say concerns... I read the post twice. 370cca is a low rating if it is the only battery especially if you are going with a stereo install. I don't know a lot about these sorts of things but I expect that injectors+ecu would require clean and constant power. When I rebuild cars i tend to go mad with the charging/ignition/battery side. So you can put it down to a slightly OCD like person.
370 is a bit on the low side, I agree. Rob260 runs one of these batteries in his Z32, and has been for a year now, so I thought I may as well go with it. Convenience factor too, for future replacement. I'm going to be wary of pumping it with the engine off, so long as I'm mindful of that I think it'll be alright. I checked voltage drop with a multimeter and got none (to two decimal places) so I'm not worried about clean power.
AWWWW <3 I actually have one, I just can't upload it! I just moved, we're between internets, so I'm using my phone's wifi and uploading is a joke. One update ready, about two more in the works. Car is getting worked on every second day or so on average. Here's a teaser!
I've got a question for you regarding the plugs that sit on the bracket behind the drivers side head light. Did you need to alter/extend anything to get it all plugged back together after pushing it through the hole? In the morning I want to chop mine off before I respray the bay but don't want wiring grief when it goes back together!
Good question. I removed my the plugs from the bracket and pulled the bracket off. I then tucked the leads around part of the power steering pump, and ran them down below the accordion and plugged them in between the boost pipes. No extension, no issues.
