Hi, i ordered exaltly the same wheels and adapters with VMR but i don't specified to cut the back face of wheels for to fit perfectly with the adapters (adaptec to but with 25 mm thickness) it's necessary to specified this to VMR?Can you explain it clearly with your own command.
hey dude, welcome to the forum. I didn't specify to VMR anything about the pockets in the wheels (what you're referring to). they're like that by default.
thanks, ok you answered my question, i'm build my zx(tt 2+2) similar look to that of Edgar white zx totalled. Your forum is really interesting photo and explanation I'll try to like you if I can bring something...
You still didn't... But it's alright now cause I know how to. On the other hand, this is the productive shenanigans that happen at Ditcham's when we are meant to be fixing racecars: What can I say? I really, really like Ditchams recaros. They got me a bit excited :/
clutch fan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- get out of my build thread you poofs finally getting 'round to putting up pics from the clutch fan swap, since I have a big update coming from the last week and I like to keep it in order! start with this which leads to this and this... the source of all evil! back together, no more issues! -A
zed week so uni's over, Ryzan was in town for a week, it was finally time to get back to the project car! june 2012: july 2011: making progress... so I decided to do a wire tuck on the engine bay. this would mean I would pull all the bitches, and I would have found another way to modify my car to decrease practicality. I also had a brake upgrade to fit, wheel studs to replace, fender braces coming in from Japan, etc. so I put the z up on stands and we got to work. fenders coming off for the first time in 23 years... and we got to it. solid 50 hours each into the zed this week. literally from getting up to going to bed. -A
fuse box relocation the fuse box was obviously the first thing that needed to go. did some research and found it's a pretty simple operation to fit it behind the front bar. the research was correct! Remove all the relays and unbolt the unit from the bay. With a flat head screw driver, pop out all the wiring from the box. when you're done, you'll get something like this. (photo taken from the guide I used, LHD and engine out) With the front bar off, take out the passenger side headlight and intake pipework that runs underneath. With the crap out of the way, pull the loom through underneath the headlight through the gap left by the intake pipework. This is a pretty painful job as there's just so much for it to catch on. Doable with one person for sure, but much easier to have one person feeding the pits through and another on the ground. Then push it over the top of the chassis rail through to the nose panel area. This pic shows the huge amount of room available: Then reassemble the box underneath the nose panel. The only wires that need to be cut and extended are for the oil pressure sensor. Once extended, we wrapped them in conduit and put a small slot in the side of the fuse box for them to fit (highlighted below) These two big plugs (whatever they do), once unwrapped from the loom a bit, somewhat easily thread through to the same place without extension. Mine ended up going in between the OEM intake hard pipes at the front of the bay. The very unprofessional but brilliantly accessible temporary new location of my fusebox. It sits directly underneath the nose panel, suspended with some cable ties between the latch support and my high beam HID ballast. A bracket is on its way. result -A
Fuel filter relocation did you know all the OEM hard lines for the fuel filter are not needed? Nissan went to all this trouble just to make the filter accessible. mind = blown OEM route: so I unbolted the hard lines on top of the plenum as well as the set on the opposite side of the filter, running up the side of the strut tower. looking around, I found there's a shitload of space underneath the battery tray. enough for the whole damn filter to fit! I used some of the hard lines from the top of the plenum to make up a new route: new clamps, and new EFI fuel hose to boot. the longer length below is an unaltered OEM-length line that originally went from the filter to the plenum. The new route. This is what I tucked underneath my battery tray, secured with zip ties in two places; one around the filter, the other going through the bolt flange left on the hard line. I haven't finalised where I'm running the lines, but it'll be around the back of the plenum. Conduit wrap was also used to protect the lines from potential rubbing and heat coming off of the passenger side turbo. -A
Do you have a shot of how it looks overall, like all cleaned up? Before and after? I don't how you contain yourself, not being able to drive it because it's in pieces most of the time. However the end will justify all the waiting, I'm sure.
