okay! everything in the engine bay is now back together, but you wouldn't know it by looking back to trying to solve the no start problem. Still weak spark. Bridged the ignition coil relay, first pins 1 and 2 then 3 and 5 (as labelled), no change.
I am watching this with anticipation I intend to do a bay tuck of sorts as well and am not wanting to repeat your problems.
thats part of the intention. I have been involved in bay tucks before. and I know what the process involves. My engine is out at the moment to put Chilledpain's one in. I just got service kits for the manual turbos I bought of him last year so they will be ready to go in as well. and while it is out I thought a general clean up around the bay is ideal. All my AC is gone now (the previous owner had the compressor out and pipes were damaged anyway) and the PTU is ready for a relocation. I want to loose the HICAS due to the rack ends being stuffed as well. Plans Plans Plans..... the never ending saga of Z ownership.
Engine doesn't really have to be out, would probably be more difficult without it there. AC delete is good, PTU relocation is a piece of piss, just involves unwrapping some tape then running the loom for it along with the rest of the front end loom to under the nose panel. HICAS delete needs to be a complete NA power steering conversion to get rid of all of it from the engine bay. I bridged both the connections in the ignition coil relay manually, no change. I also unwrapped the PTU earth wire, trimmed a bit of insulation off and ran a big fat wire from it to the negative terminal. still, no change and now my battery is very nearly flat and I hate everything
Is it possible your battery was just getting low and no longer had enough umph to give good spark? Maybe try again with a fully charged battery??
Not yet, that's next. Had a few things to try first. Not even trying to start, and no back firing. Stinks of fuel after all that cranking though... Possible, but it's still reading 12.1 volt and 9+ when cranking. It was kicking it over fine before this whole issue started, just has gotten low after 3 weeks of cranking without success...
I checked the cas while I was there Anti, confirmed injectors were firing and cas was located properly.
I spent a good amount of time on the phone to Chris (ezzupturbo) yesterday checking things like CAS plug, fuel pump, fuel, injector and spark power using a primitive test light, and a few other odd things. He concludes my motor is simply flooded to the shithouse, so I sat there and cranked it with the fuel pump relay out 'til the battery went flat... again, haha. With extensive cranking it became apparent that the engine is occasionally coughing a bit. Today while doing the same thing, I at one point saw a brief flash of light from around the back of my passenger side headlight. Martin (newz) was over at the time and standing in front of the bay, he reckoned it came from around the CAS area... what the hell could that be?!
Could've broken a wire in the loom when moving the fuse box. Maybe time to strip it back around that area and check for any possible burns or damage? Also might pay to re-check fuses.
I just went out there and had a very thorough dig around at all the loom on top of the passenger side chassis rail - all the plugs, leads, everything - it's all conduit wrapped and taped up. Everything. How could a flash escape from there?
Do a continuity test on all the wires you have extended or moved. If it was workin sweet without flooding prior the sounds like something's been dodged up. Under the pax headlight is where all the new wires are? Ptu and fusebox? Start unwrapping all the groups of wires.
My money's on a short somewhere. Data scan still shows TPS all sweet? Do a spark test one by one while cranking? Take out the fuel relay, check each one while cranking? Test the signal going to the injectors is good too. You can use a noid light like you would a timing light. I woulda dragged it to an auto leccy or thrown a match at it by now I reckon. Edit One thought is are your hid ballasts right next to the Ptu?
if its flooded then sometimes a can of "startyabastard" can be helpfull just to get it over the line.
TPS is reading .46, and while cranking goes up in accordance with pedal pushing Spark and injector on one cylinder tested, not all of them at the moment. HID ballasts are underneath headlights, PTU is on latch mechanism support beam
Reason I ask for the HIDs is they have been known to knock out other nearby electronics, but that distance sounds sweet. Still a weak spark? Battery is strong right? Got a spare PTU, triple check your PTU wiring ah. Especially the earths, even get `em out and clean the surfaces of the connectors. What is your plug type and gap?
