Whats wrong with my VG?

No probs mate, just start from the top and work through it. Pm me if you need some advice and ill forward you my number. Can talk it through if needed.

 

Thanks Sanouske (idk name :/)

and cheers everyone else for the advice and all...

really appreciate it!

 

Sanouske = chris.

 

Read somewhere the injectors tend to die one after the other.

 

Don't listen to this, Sanouske is a pretty girl called Amanda. This Chris fellow is a chump among chumps. Chump.

j/k ily <3

 

Love you too Tom. Now back to bed. This is way too early for you to be still up.

 

how i know this is a lie.

if there was a pretty girl called amanda who was a gun at diagnosing engine problems on a ZX, owned a ZX and was keen to help me out then if she was single, she wouldnt be single for long, and if she was taken i'm sure whoever had her wouldnt want her passing out her number to random zx'ers on the forum offering them her 'help'

but if there is a girl on the forum matching that discription. PM me, I'm 30, well educated, love going for long strolls along the beach and a huge fan of twilight, pride and prejudice and whatever other girly stuff you want me to be into.... also not bad at making pancakes!

 

Lmao man that's gold.

True is that my partner is amanda, does own a z32 and is fairly switched on with auto tech. Not much she doesn't know, albeit not always the nitty gritty crap, but enough to make you double think your diagnostics. Prob explains why she runs the service dept for Mitsubishi where she works... Haha. Previously hsvi. Not bad for only 24.

But regardless, nice pickup line. Haha

 

would it make any difference that there is no vac hose going in to where it seems a vac hose should plug in to the boost controller?

 

Depends if its a vac hose which should route to the turbos, or the engine/bypass.

If there is a vacuum leak at the engine somewhere it would affect the idle and throttle response but not in a big way. After all its only a little hose with a small ID.

 

Hmm, I'm not sure how that is all set up. but it seems that something should be plugged in there?

I've tried a few things since its been back.

heres a photo of it from this morning.
maybe if someone has special z wispering powers they can feel what is wrong with it by looking at the image?

 

Ok, Chris, and those watching at home.

I spent a little over an hour this morning taking the plenum off and the turbo piping (so i could get at the egr bolts) and now have the injectors and rails out, ready to be sent off to Pennyarvs.

first step will be to degrease the entire bay, and might touch up and respray what needs doing. then will start to put it all back together when i get the injectors back.

vac hoses were mostly all over the place and a lot of things seemed like they could have found better homes (not swiping at Noel, i'm just an anal fussy ****) so I'll try and tidy it all up a bit as I go.






one question though,
If i use the EGR delete kit i still have, what do i do with all the egr gear thats in the bay? and how much of that do i take off?


Thanks again for everyone's help and advice. its all very much appreciated

please stay tuned to see how I go

 

if this was a tt conversion , what do you know about the engine , the engine could be bad for all you know , have you done a comp test , was the engine running for sure before it was put it?

your no. 1 cylinder may be dead amongst other things

do a comp test and see whats going on , , then see who has a leak down tester to see what it is ,

you can still do it the way the engine is now , just disconnect the fuel pump, and take out all the spark plugs and go for it , thats the first thing i will do , it may have been on the way out and you just helped it along , there is no point in getting a tune , for a start they will not tune it for you till it runs good ,

so what do you know now , the engine runs like its really done and the only thing you can see it that its down on 1 , well i can tell you that the car will run ok with the no 1 down , you say it goes like shit , well then you have no 1 down and other problems to go with it.

do a cold comp test this will tell you if your wasting your time or not , . was the engine put together by someone or did it come out of a car complete ?

with a cold comp test it will tell you if the bank is ok , if you find that its way to low , then there is your problem , the engine is no good. dont worry about inhjection till you know 100 % what going on with the engine , stop spending money for tnothing and do what you got to do to get your shit together .

 

good advice,

I'll pick up a compression tester tomorrow.

I couldnt find anything in tech (because i'm blind) about a cold comp test. so any chance you could pm me how thats done?

I've sent teh injectors to Arvs, but i'll take your advice, and before i get them done i'll do the rest of what you said, if the engine is ****ed then arvs can just keep the injectors, and I've paid 4k for a ****ed engine install.

pm coming your way anyway..

 

I personally would have thought they would have comp tested the engine prior to install for the purpose of not selling a dud. But can people get this dodgy. Was it a private install or done at a workshop?

But yeah I would have done a comp test too before going this far, but all good. Go for it now, let us know what results you pull.

 

Disconnect PTU
Disconnect fuel pump (pull fuel pump relay or just unplug the fuel pump)
Take one plug out and screw comp tester into the plug hole
Crank engine until comp tester doesn't read any higher
Record reading

Reinstall spark plug and repeat for the remaining 5 cylinders.

Make sure you have a good battery or even a second one on stand by, it can drain the battery if you're not careful.

The idea of doing it cold is to get the actual compression figure of the engine. Numbers will rise when the engine is warm because the rigs expand causing a tighter seal.

 

Thays not correct.

You do not put the plugs back in at all

Take them all out. Leave them out till your done.
You only need to take the fuse out. For the fuel pump. Its the one in the engine bay next to the brake master. And the very last fuse needs to come out thats all. The rest is sort of correct. Rings dont expand due to heat.

 

I asked for a compression test a few times, for the exact reason that i've bought a few cars in the past that had to have engine replacements because of poor compression. but I was told and led to believe that this 'came out of a running zed'
meaning. it had been installed in a running zed and was pulled out of a running zed and the only issue was it had a dodgy turbo that was blowing smoke out of one side.

I was told it would be too hard to do a comp test on the engine because of this or that etc etc so i took his word for it.

only after the thing was in and i apparently owed 4300$ on top of the 2500 i spent on parts myself the story changed to...
and I quote
"my part is done, the swap is done, but its only running on 2 cylinders..."
when I said 'wasnt it a running engine?'
story changed to
"well it was, but it could have been sitting in a shed for 5 years for all we know"
then i was told to grab some lube and lay down for a while and if i wanted anything else fixed i'd be charged an hourly rate to get the injectors fixed etc etc....

hence, **** THAT, i'll grab it and fix the thing myself from here.


I'm not going to resolve myself to the fact that i've spent 7k on installing a ****ed TT because of someones bullshit word so I'll do a comp test after work tonight and will get back to you with the results.
worst case is the block is ****ed, but the car is set up for a TT now so I'll have to chase down another good motor.

 

Is there no warranty on the engine. It should go back to who ever did it. Were did the engine come from.

You need all this info you need to know what you have. 7 k for what.

 

that sux big time

I would not accept that at all !