Whats wrong with my VG?

Yarp!
i'm betting the ptu is as much of an issue as the injector.

if the ptu isnt bolted down at all, does that affect grounding of the unit?
assuming the short hasnt cooked it already, might be worth hooking up another ptu and seeing if that has a difference.

 

You don't need a retune to run a TT Pump in an NA.

 

its a tt pump in a tt with an na management unit, and i think you do...

to be honest I would have just put in the tt management unit and saved having to chip it.

 

TT pump in my NA here, NA FPCU, stock ecu no retunes. AFR's were tested before/after and there was ZERO difference.

 

Wayne ive msgd Andy (XKGB) & let him know that your trying to get in touch with him

Abraham

 

this is why i would like someone to work on my Z who knows EXACTLY what they are doing and not 'feeling their way around'

nothing against Noel but he's still trying to feel his way around these engines and i feel like i'm paying for his learning curve.

Cheers ABZ, i just found his number in my old phone. I'll see if i can get a tow, and hopefully XKGB might be able to still lend some help on the issue.

Cheers all for the info and advice

WaynoZ

 

Lol,

no.1 (drivers side front closest to radiator)

unplugged coilpacks and all made it run worse accept for no.1
checked spark from pack and still ok
took out no.1 injector connector and no difference

to be honest, could have had something go wrong with no.1 plug too, might be worth checking or replacing.

I'm not sure what the aac thingy is... still working on ecu and ptu's atm. :/

 

Dont rule out problems with the rest of it. Guys can tell you on here the car can happily boost and make power with only 5 cylinders working. If its making zero power, I think you have a widespread problem then its not isolated to only one cylinder.

 

exactly my point and why i posted.

power atm is precisely at 0. like I said, my na was down a fw cylinders and i could still drive it to uni. this won't drive to next door.

considering apparently it was running and boosting fine when noel drove it, then an hour later it was ****ed again. I'm thinking maybe the spark that was coming off the ptu because it had a cable rubbed through from the belt, might have fried the ptu? which might have started caused a few more problems including the reason why the injector stopped working again after initially working fine? or the ptu isnt telling enough fuel to me pumped?

I've asked Noel to hook up another series 2 ptu and see if that makes any difference.

thanks for your response

 

So power is Zero but the video or description doesnt say what happens.

Does it clean rev but not pull? Does it splutter and cough after a certain RPM or throttle setting?

Describe the symptoms man.

And its assumed you have changed the AFM/ cleaned and retensioned all the connectors (PTU, Coilpacks, injectors, CAS and TPS) prior to posting yeah?

 

I'm gunna go out on a limb and probably get criticised here, but whack a multimeter across the battery while the car's running and see what you get.

My alternator was dead but I have a really good battery, it started and drove the car for days and the car slowly got worse until it would barely move, spat fuel into the exhaust and sounded like it was ****ed.

Turned out that the alternator was dead, which I'd never have suspected because the car turned over and started fine, but the battery didn't have enough power to run everything smoothly like injectors, coils and everything else in the car.

 

Make sure your chip hasn't popped out of its socket too.

 

have you ever driven a ride on mower on turtle setting?
it basically drives like that, its even enough and consistant with revs but just no power and sounds dreadful!

only time anything wierd happens is when i stop acceleration, it seems like its about to stall then creeps back up to a grand revs.

afm? cas and tps are still too much since i'm still working on aac, at least i know ptu and ecu but the rest idk.

but good point, i take it air flow meter?, actually my car ran like shit once as an na and bryan and i think it was the afm that bryan had to rebuild which got it going again. cost me $700 but i bet that was half him having his finger in my ass like how he still has my 2k.

coilpacks are all checked, the na loom had all the connectors replaced about 1000k's ago, injector connectors should be ok, injectors all got cleaned and new o'rings etc.

not the worst suggestion someone could make. definately no issue with starting, but if your theory was correct, then it should hypothetically run fine for a small period and then turn to crap i would think?

that can happen? that is in the ecu 'in' the car right?


i'm still betting, whats the chances the ptu shorting against the block has damaged the ptu, so replacing that might help. sounds like it might be a cocktail of issues though, No idea how the car would have been running perfectly an hour before i got to see it though.

when I bought the car the person selling it told me straight to my face 'its fast, i had to check it wasn't a turbo (bought as an na)' then when i got in it had no acceleration that a corolla couldnt beat and needed 1500 worth of work to get it to want to do over 80km's an hour. so I am sceptical of most peoples interpretations of 'power' and 'acceleration' these days...


edit:
bare in mind the z is about 50 minutes away and its not somewhere i can just go and test a few things on. Noel wanted to have a crack at attempting to clean out the injector, part other than that their suggestion is to run it at revs until it shits itself back into shape, hence why i am after some more solid ideas before i go and **** something that i just spent close to 7k getting installed.
I will most likely look at towing it back to mine next week when i get a chance, then I can run through some of these suggestions, and worst case scenario take the plenum off and start from scratch from the heads up....

 

Just to clarify too. The ptu is a unit which is associated with the coilpacks only. It does not have anything to do with th injectors and telling it to fire or increase/decrease pulse etc.

If you've swapped coilpacks around and tested spark by having the plug removed (or a spare plug inserted into the coilpack) and held against the plenum, visually seeing spark when cranking. The ptu would be assumed working.

For you to have removed the injector connector and no difference occur. Would suggest the issue is ecu (footwell) related. Where by the injector signal isn't strong enough or non existing at all. OR perhaps the injector is dead, or stuck.

For the simple task of swapping a known working ptu over for testings sake, do so. But I doubt you'll have any change.

I think you need to get a multimeter onto the no.1 injector plug and test for continuity or voltage signal. Then also get a spare or old injector plug and bit of wire attached to it, and with a 9v battery or 12v ideally. Touch the battery intermittently, whilst having a long screwdriver touching the body of the injector, and held up to your ear. You're listening for s clicking sound as you attach and detach the battery. I you can hear a click, assume the injectors working. I not, is either dead or stuck. Which can happen I a bit of shitty fuel gets through or the injectors gummed up due to age.

Also worth with the multimeter doing an ohms test on the injector. I believe it should be between 10 and 14 ohms....will double check is in the fsm.

Lastly, might I suggest you disconnect and reconnect the ecu (footwell) from the blue loom connector. Funny shit can happen sometime when fiddling with this connector after years of it not being tampered with, might have a dodgy connection there causing all the problems.

Also, I like the above comment, start from the beginning and try your best to describe what you think the engines doing upon startup. And does it crank lots before firing up, or first go. Does it free rev when in neutral. When in gear, what does I feel like its doing...

It's all about having a good crack and learning about these little niggles as you go. All well and good taking it to a pro, but in the future there may be a similar issue and you having dealt with it, can have a crack at resolving it. Chin up, you'll get it sorted.

 

Ps, sorry about the spelling. iPads not keeping up with the fingers and mind as I type.

This zed manual or auto?

 

ok, we tested the injector connector and that had the same current running through as all the other injector connectors. but we didnt go to the extent that you just told.

speaking of shitty fuel, (and not that i want to come off too negative against Noel) the car had **** all fuel in it, less than 5ltrs total, so... being a bright spark he is, jumped in the zed first time after getting it going, apparently it was driving and boosting fine and he drove it around the block a few times and was 'impressed with the power' then it must have shat itself. I figure and so does my mate that he's sucked some shit through the injectors that was sitting on the bottom of the tank and clogged them back up again.

(all after I told him if he starts it NOT to drive it because i don't even have a temp gauge hooked up in it, because I blew the interior fuse trying to hook up the aftermarket one since you need a degree in electronic engineering to figure out all the wires in the damn thing)

but anyway......


so we can put that down as 'issue number 1'

having the ptu sitting losely in the bay and having it rub against the belt eating through a wire shorting against the block 'issue no.2 but luckily only 1 wire and no real affect?

can this be done without taking off the plenum?

I think the video i posted was basically from start up (key turn) so it cranks well, but
sounds shit,
revs kind of ok but not a lot of response
drops revs and almost stalls when you back off revs,
doesnt free rev at all, if anything it dies quickly after revs


I appreciate the advice,
I am half tempted to just tow it to mine and have a crack at it myself, while the plenum is off again I'll respray the engine bay....



Edit:

Z is Manual

 

Ok well fuel, yeah, maybe, usually the filter does a pretty good job at limiting the amount of crap that gets through, but you never know. It's possible that sediment got through and no.1 copped it.

Connectors receiving signal, or at least power, so that's a plus.

Yes you can ohms test the injector in situation. Just remove the connector and set the multimeter to ohms and with the red and black probes, touch each of the injector terminals. Should be around 12 iirc. Still yet to double check for you. For reference, test another injector so you know what to look for. But all can be done in position.

If that checks out ok, really opt for attempting to check for injector audible acknowledgment that the injectors clicking. I you can test it with a spare connector and battery, knowing the loom is sending power. Reconnect the loom to the injector and with the screwdriver trick, listen for the injector click.

Ptu wiring issue. Take a close up of which wire got damaged in reference to the ptu. So we can work out if its ecu side or coilpack side that got damaged. And if its even no.1 cylinder that's faulting. Really doubt its hurt anything being you have spark...as you say.

And ok, the video. Lots of extra noise there. As a2zed said, its allot of rocks in a tin can there. Was it making this much sound prior to your mate taking if for a joy ride? Or only since he limped it home to where it is now....

 

Ok so I on'd the sennheiser's and closed my eyes and played the video 3 times over.

What I can pick up is you've got rattly injectors, which audibly increase and decrease with rpm. You also have a tight belt squeak sort of noise, and also a noisy power steering pump sound. There is also induction sound, prominent with a pod installation, and lastly the thump/humm of the chugging sorta idle with the exhaust.

When revved it picks up pretty well, but does dip in idle before steadying. Which for me, is familiar when there is an inlet manifold air leak. Either a vacuum hose missing, or especially if the orings under the balance tube are leaking.

I wouldn't be surprised if your tps is set incorrectly, might be a fraction out of range. Which you can also test with the multimeter. To test this check out the tech section, good write up in there.

Apart from that, how tight are all the belts. Not overnight? When idling also, turn your steering wheel. Does the pump really groan? That may need attention soon as that's quiet loud. Bad pump bearings and overnight belts can hinder rev drop off to idle, even the alternator for that matter. Put the volt meter on the battery when the engine is off and check that its 12v or very close to, then engine on. Should be around 13v - 14v when revving a little. This will determine the alternators charging still.

Then all you have left is the injector.

Check your afm connector and afm for cleanliness. Might be receiving bad signal...

 

hey Wayne make sure your fuel injector insulators are in, without these your car will idle erratic and shit all power.
my car didn't have them on when first got it back and idle was shit plus accelerating was very jumpy and power was not there.
once I had them installed the car revs fine and hold a decent idle.

do a rule out process to narrow down the cause.
-fix injector
-fill tank with fresh 98 octant fuel (fresh fuel helps)
-vacuum test
-compression test all cylinders
-try another PTU and TPS and even ECU

after all this im sure the problem if not gone should be easier to narrow down

 

Thanks for all that info Sanouske

theres a lot there to go through so i won't reply in whole just yet, but you will be right about the power steering, its been 2 years since i drove it so i forgot the sound that made when it was low, I was putting a new bottle of fluid in every week. so thats one sound sorted.

everything elst you mentioned will take some time to go through.

I am definetely keen on a compression test.
the car was empty, so I came down with 20 litres of 98 octane and thats still in the tank now.