Re: both of my engines didn't have that setup. All up there are 3 different When I get home I will post the engine number from this block. Amen to the locking nut comment. I may have to go down to my mate Toms factory and check out what sort of sliding slot lock nuts I can fit on this even of I have to machine the slots a bit bigger to accomodate them. Lastly,I agree they dont look too taxing to make that's for sure. I am positive that this could be done on a standard pulley and I am sure that even the exhaust pulley could be modded with the addition of some machining and a steel ring to be adjustable as well in the same way as the picture.
Try a longer bolt that will protrude through the front of the pulley..... enough so that after a nut is welded on there is a couple of threads clearance between it and the cam gear. That would enable you to undo the bolt (by using the welded nut) to enable cam gear adjustment, and retighten when finished. Theoretically you should never need to remove the bolt so it won't matter that the nut prohibits it. If you do have to remove it for some reason, then just grind the nut off and make a new nut/bolt to replace it. Got to be easier than machining/remanufacturing the cam gear when you already have adjustment in the one you have.
or put a longer bolt in that has the last 8mm of the thread machined flat on two sides such that you can put an open ended spanner on the machined flat sides of the thread to undo it and tighten it back up. I'd also put loctite on the threads when doing them back up so they didn't come loose.
The best way would be to buy some shouldered bolts to replace the existing ones. Then drill out the threaded hole for a clearance hole and place the nut on the front. This is the side we normally see. The other alternative would be to slot the front plate where the threads are now cut. Then weld some high tensile engine bolts permanently in place on the rear pulley. This last idea is best IMHO. You can have more adjustment range if you do it this way and its easier to mark the pulley.
Your first suggestion is not ideal....... You don't have access to get a spanner on the bolt head at the rear to ensure you get the nut on the front nice and tight. Your second suggestion has merit but still involves additional machining.
9:1 Pistons In my case, the high-flowed turbo's produce increased "lag", so I believe that any small improvement in "off boost" performance gained from 9:1 C/R is effectively hidden(as it lessens the noticeable lag).
Beautiful - so 9:1 Pistons+Thicker Gasket it is...any suggestions on a good gasket? and chilli from what you said before i should keep the crankshaft on the zed as it is really strong and also the rods but just get them shot pinned and linished. That would be good? Also how much is it to shot pinn and linish the rods??
