My TT work-in-progress thread

Discussion in 'Technical' started by zedboy, May 21, 2010.

  1. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Water hose bypass

    Quick question is it 8mm or 10mm hose that is used for the under plennum bypass? I have 8mm hose but it seems a bit tight...probally due to a bit of corrosion on the pipes.
    Wasn't sure so is it 8mm or 10mm hose?

    Thanks Matt
     
  2. Benny_C

    Benny_C About as subtle as...

    8mm is what you want :)

    Also, before you fit the new hose, rub the old pipes with some sandpaper to remove excess rust/corrosion on the pipes, and for a better seal.
     
  3. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Thanks Benny, guess ill have to sand back some of the corrosion on there...thought 10mm would have been too big.
     
  4. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Quick question are there 2 earthing straps on the rear of the plennum or just 1 as i don't want to short the ECU out?
     
  5. GarlicSteaks

    GarlicSteaks Pulsating Member

    Just one on mine from memory...
     
  6. SIM300

    SIM300 FAKE MODERAT0R

    Two.

    One is located behind the fuel damper, the other is near the AAC.
     
  7. GarlicSteaks

    GarlicSteaks Pulsating Member

    ... great memory...
     
  8. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Well it's all back together this morning but battery was really dead on it even with a jump starter hooked up voltage was dropping to 7-8 volts while cranking.
    Pretty sure I have read that anything less than 10 volts the ECU wont work as it should.

    On monday I will hook it up with the leads to my daily which will give it 14v if it doesn't kick over then, well i've done something wrong. Was meant to be together 3 weeks ago hopefully fingers crossed it should be ok.
     
  9. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Pretty sure it will be alive again on Wednesday. Went there this morning to try start it but it would cough and splutter and i was unsure of what i had done wrong.
    On 2 occassions it started and idled perfectly for 10 seconds before dying out.

    Just came home to check a few things on the zed and straight away i realised i had the fuel lines the wrong way around. :eek: On the TT the fuel hardlines have been removed and i had the supply going into the reg and return from the damper :bash:

    Thats what happens when you rush things...well when i rush things anyway.
     
  10. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    Yeah

    dont worry mate, it's a common mistake apparently. I did the exact same thing :eek:. I tell you now, you only ever do it once :rolleyes:
     
  11. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Yer i was in a rush to get the final bits on it, when it did kick over and run on all 6 i knew it wasn't injector connectors or coilpacks and soon as i opened the bonnet on my other zed it was obvious where i went wrong.

     
  12. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    It's alive again.

    It started up this morning first go after i sorted out the fuel lines a few minor boost leaks but it deffinatley seems to run alot stronger on all 6 than it did before. :D
    Previously it use to missfire from 4000rpm+ while revved in nuetral, now it revs right up much faster and smoother. I think the dirty old injectors and plugs where causing this, now have iridiums 0.8mm gap.

    One thing that i originally suspected was a stuffed drivers side turbo, it sat stationary for a month while doing the plennum pull, soon as it kicked over this morning drivers turbo was smoking quite a bit and it also seemed to howl and whine when i revved it up over 3000rpm, im guessing if it's that bad now once i start driving it and it's making some boost under load the turbo won't last long at all. :mad:

    Overall im happy that it runs again and alot better than before:)
     
  13. michandy

    michandy Active Member

    well done

    well done mate and it's good to see that you're taking notice of what the cars telling you. A lot of people would not take notice of noises the car makes until it doest make any noise at all :(.
    Andy :cool:
     
  14. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    GT28R's/GT600R's/GT2560's????

    Hey guys basically im thinking about the above turbo setup as I am certain the drivers turbo is in need of rebuild or replace.
    As I have just had the injectors flowed and cleaned I don't really want to replace them and I want to know if they will max out with 28R's at 9psi maybe 11psi at the most.

    Im thinking at 9psi it should be safe, can anyone confirm this for me as i don't want to be hitting 95% duty cycle.
     
  15. Benny_C

    Benny_C About as subtle as...

    I know a member with GT28R turbos who is running about that psi level (on the actuator pressure, so he can't get any lower), and he's gotten up to 99% duty cycle on stock injectors.

    I wouldn't recommend getting bigger turbos only on stock injectors, even on their lowest boost setting. 1: you're leaving your duty cycle margin for error much less, and 2: why have lovely big turbos (as well as inheriting the extra associated lag) when you can only have them bairly working?

    I'd do it properly and get turbos + dumps + injectors + IC upgrade if you were going to the expense of turbos.

    Otherwise, you may as well just get new CHAR's for your stock turbos and just get them put in. That's a very cheap and easy option for your stockies. Plus you won't have to worry about getting extra 5 bolt dumps aswell.

    Just some things to consider. :)
     
  16. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Ok Benny thanks for that, i was just planning to run them on actuator pressure 9-10psi...don't want to get new injectors as i just had mine flow cleaned and in perfect condition now.
    Was thinking of GT28R's and then at a later date bigger injectors and bring the boost up to 14psi or so.
    I might just rebuild the stock turbos or put GT28R CHRA's in them and keep it at 9psi I think that should be safe.
     
  17. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Bit of an update, finished the plennum pull around a month ago, kicked over pretty quickly and seems to idle and run alot stronger. More than likely due to clean flowing injectors along with new iridium plugs.
    Plans are to do the full 100k service on it, and have to motor out in the new year. If turbo's are in good condition well I'll leave them if not might get them rebuilt with 28R CHRA.

    Not too happy with the final finish on the polished plennum, I will polish up another one I have along with the water pipes and CAS and then probally get the whole lot done by competition coatings so the alloy doesn't oxidize.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    comp test

    Hey guys planning on finally doing a compression test in the morning, I can't frive it as it's mostly stripped so I was going to kick it over and let it run for 15mins or so. Is this sufficient to warm up the motor??

    Also am I correct in removing all 6 plugs while testing each cyclinder? WOT and crank till you get the highest reading?

    Thanks
     
  19. ryzan

    ryzan Moderator Staff Member

    Um maybe wait for the temp gauge to hit atleast 60 degrees/ (thats when it starts moving)
     
  20. zedboy

    zedboy Active Member

    Went to do the comp test today, however once I have the plugs out and bolt it the fittings I have no way of removing the hose once it's connected.

    The easiest way I can think of doing it is have a 15cm pipe brazed onto the fitting and then just attach the hose with easy access at the top of the plennum not down in the head.

    Has anyone done this or are the attachments and extensions available to make the job easy?

    Thanks.
     

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