Just pulled the fuel rail off I was expecting to find o-rings between the injector and lower plennum but there wasn't any. Does that sound right? Or are they hard to see cause there certainly wasn't any on the lower plennum. Took the fuel rail and injectors to get professionally cleaned and flowed and before I told him what car it's from he said straight away "another TT 300zx rail" apparently he has done a fair few for both n/a and TT's. Told me that he will replace both upper and lower o-rings so im guessing that both rings are appart of the rail and injector. I know there is one between the injector and the rail but where is the other? Thanks Matt
There is 2 o-rings per injector. Because the injectors are side feed they need an upper and lower o-ring to seal to the rail. There should also be rubber grommets in the lower plenum for the fuel injector nozzle to slide into.
So it's just the grommets that should be in there? Im sure ill sort it out, ill be picking up the fuel rail tomorrow so ill ask the guy there to clear it up for me. Thanks Matt
Let's just hope it starts again it should, plennum pull is much easier than it sounds, just a pain it the ass.
Hey guys im going to be replacing the intake cam cover seals over the weekend, I have been told that i need to replace the crush washers as well, is this necessary to do? Also with the exhaust cam covers what is the best sealant to use that will tolerate the heat? Going to buy Permatex which one in particular or is there a better product? Thanks Matt
Not necessary But nice to have new ones rather than the old cooked ones. Three bond is my sealant of choice, but all much of a muchness.
Thanks for that Ron, nissan is $3/washer might try get some elsewhere, I just don't want it to leak after it's all together. Also sealent only goes on the exhaust cam covers, not the intake correct?
New bits and pieces Picked up all my new gaskets from Caz this morning, new TB gaskets, upper plennum, IAVC gasket, intake cam cover seals and all new black silicon hoses. New silicon hoses are so much better and deffinatley well worth it. Also picked up my fuel rail from Australia Fuel Injection South at Mortdale, all injectors cleaned and tested, flow cleaned the rail, new injector caps and new upper and lower O-rings. Looks so much better now than when i first saw it. The guy asked me if the car was even running when he saw the condition of the injectors and rail thats how bad they were. Also there is a cable at the rear of the rail which what looks to be and earth strap. Looks pretty rough with no insulation should i replace it? Also what is the grade of the fuel injection hose that should be used for the water by-pass that will tolerate the heat and pressure? I remeber reading something on the forum about it not too long ago but can't remeber who it was from. Thanks Matt
Earthing strap is meant to be unshielded. If its clean, just use the one you have there. As for the hoses. It was recommended to just use a high grade/quality hose. I prefer Gates Hoses. But that's namely as it's all my work gets supplied, and also the local auto shops. Alternative is to use Silicone hoses. Providing they're not in consistent high temp spots. But they're pretty good these days. If you look at the number of unnecessary hard lines that make up the cooling passages for the original under plenum hoses. You will realize you can cut off a lot of them and have the end brazed so that it relieves the need to use the bypass hoses. On the TT's there is extra lines for the turbo feeds, so don't cut and braze them up. I wish i took more time in installing my second engine, as i would have taken a pic of what i mean. I cut and removed a few, and it clears the back end up really well. Actually can fit your hands back there. Ill get a pic and show you what i mean. Also, looks like a solid step forward.
I got the whole lot done at trade price, clean and flow injectors, new upper and lower o-rings, new injector caps, and pressure clean the fuel rail for $180, usually probally $220 or so.
Turbo Lines Hey guy's i was going to bin the standard vaccum lines that go down to each waste gate actuator and replace them with new silicon hoses and a turbotech MBC. Would this be ok or are there restrictors etc in the standard hoses that are needed? Also going of the following pic there is some sort of T peice near the actuator with the blue hose going to the plastic intake pipe and the yellow hose going to the turbo pipe on the TB. What is the Blue hose for? Do i also need it or can i rip both out block both port on each side and use my turbotech MBC? I know i can remove the yellow hoses but what about the blue.
All that junk is just for the stock boost solenoids. Rip it all out, block up the intake nipples, and do as you said of running fresh actuator hoses of even length to a T piece, then to your MBC. Then a standard vaccum hose from the MBC T'd somewhere off your balance pipe. Will be perfect. Yes there are restrictors in the stock actuator lines, but they are more hinderence than benefit - especially if you're running a MBC and plan on running higher than stock boost.
Ah so they are the boost solenoids, ok thanks Benny. AIV's, EGR, PRVR is all out along with the unecessary lines. Only have the standard boost gauge and carbon canister still in place.
Ok i ripped out the boost solenoids on the passenger side i pulled it right out to the wastegate actuator. But i can't get access to the dirvers side wastegate actuator as it is closer to the block and i simply can't get to it. Drivers Side Passenger Side So on the drivers side ill just have to cap off the 2 unecessary ports that were going to the plastic intake pipe and the front turbo pipe to the TB until i pull the motor out so i can get access to the wastegate actuator. Cam cover came off last week and i just picked them up today from the powdercoaters, shame you can't see much of them with the plennum on as they do look really good.
looking real good. except all that plumbing should have been in place before the engine was seated. But i guess you're aware of that now. That pesty drivers' side actuator hose might be able to be "massaged" out of the road by a long thick screwdriver using "leverage". but it's definately do-able - even with engine in situ. Stick at it
I never pulled the motor out Benny, it's still in the TT that i bought. Probally should have pulled the motor prior to doing all the work to it. I still got 12 months before i can legally drive it so there is plenty of time until i have to convert it over into my Aus-spec.
